Thread: HOW TO: Delete Waxstat Cold Idle Mechanism (VE)

HOW TO: Delete Waxstat Cold Idle Mechanism

This How To will show you how to delete the cold idle mechanism found on VE engines. These often cause idle issues such as:
-Very high cold idle, over 2000rpm
-Very high warm idle, over 1500rpm
-Hunting idle at traffic lights, bouncing between 1500-2000-1500-2000 etc.

What causes this? There is usually two reasons;
-Water lines running to the throttlebody not connected
-Old and seized up waxstat

I personally had used the water lines to cool my turbo instead of the throttle bodys waxstat, so I chose to remove this mechanism.
Start by identifying the waxstat mechanism, easily spotted under the throttlebody to the left


Remove the two PH2 screws highlighted


This is what your throttlebody should look like with all the parts removed


Pile of parts removed


What to check after deleting the waxstat:
-Check throttle cable slack. Your throttleplate might want to close more than ever before, so it's good to check that you have a properly set up throttlecable, with minimal slack.
-Check TPS(Throttle Position Sensor) calibration. Your throttlebody might close more than ever before, making a recalibration of the TPS necessary. IGN ON, you can see the TPS voltage with a multimeter at the terminals, with a consult cable connected, or with NEMU/Nistune/AEM etc. With throttle closed you should be seeing 0.5V. The spec is 0.35V to 0.65V but it's good to have it right in the middle. Adjustment is done by loosening the 2 screws that mount the TPS.

After I was done checking all this, my idle stopped bouncing at traffic lights, and my warm idle is at a smooth 900rpm. Success!

Man a few weeks back I searched everywhere for info on this thing and came up dry. I actually decided to delete my AAV and keep the thermostat cold idle to eliminate some wiring...however if it causes issues maybe I'll reconsider...is there a part number for this thing or availability of replacement?

Considering the actual waxstat is encased in the throttlebody, you would have to replace the entire throttlebody if the wax dries and seizes up. Costly replacement..

I personally think the IACV assembly is more than enough to control the idle. With nismotronic you can have even more control over the opening and closening of these stock valves, making cold start a breeze.

This is why I went straight to Lowport throttle body, plus it lets you keep cruise control.

@JKTUNING

Anyone else just running the IACV with deleted wax stat and AAV? If I can delete both I gladly will but was worried about hard cold starts (Canada).

A little searching shows ELEMENT KI :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Ga16 wax stat looks and awful lot like the VE one....and at only 50 bucks I'd rather use the throttle wax stat to free up wiring and air hoses by deleting the AAV on my GTiR

I did this a few days ago after Dala posted about it.

My VE now idles at 900rpm. With the help of nismotronic everything is stable regardless of the temp

Here's how to permanently remove the waxstat, and perform some weight reduction because racecar

VE Throttlebody


Hacksaw


Result:


It weighs more than you'd think!

Was thinking of doing this to my N1 throttle body... but part of me really doesn't want to mess up and ruin an expensive throttle body, ha ha.