VVL HOW TO: Configure Greddy MSS
Hold down "MODE" to go to between the setup screens. Hold down "select" to adjust brightness. Make certain to push in the rotary knob every time you change something or it wont save it. To set the RPM at which it engages, hold down "MODE" until it goes to a screen where it has an RPM readout (probably 0), then hit "MODE" once. This will go to solenoid 1 setup. Push the rotary button to change the values, push the "select" button to go between parameters (RPM, voltage, temp, boost, etc). Push "MODE" again to go to solenoid 2 setup.
The base settings should read as follows (hold "MODE" to access):
Top=little dash on top
Bottom=little dash on bottom
Pr - Top
C4 - Top
P2 - Top
When the 1 is shown, it says "ON"
When the 2 is shown, it says "ON"
In the actual parameter setup, I have (stock SR20VE cams):
1 (exhaust):
On 4800
Off 4790
Everything else is ZERO unless you set it for TPS or temp (only engages when warm).
2 (intake):
On 4600
Off 4590
Everything else is ZERO unless you set it for TPS or temp (only engages when warm).
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Here's a pic of how to hook it up:
Power source: Most people are confused as to what you should do with the red and orange wires. IMO, tie the red and orange together, tap it to an ACC source (cig lighter) and call it a day. It turns on and off just fine for me. Anything else is just more than it's worth.
I tapped my RPM signal to the back of the instrument cluster rather than to the ECU, I think this is MUCH easier than pulling out the ECU. This would be a blue/orange wire (center harness on the b14 and late B13....excluding the cars that don't come with a stock tach).
Don't tap the speed or any other parameters if you don't have to. RPM is the only signal you really need (unless you absolutely only want to activate the cams under certain throttle position). As soon as I unplugged my speed signal, my problems went away.
Another thing I noticed. Since the MSS provides the ground signal for activation, I'm sure most of you have tapped the other end of the solenoids to a constant positive battery source. It will work, however, I found out that when the car is off, the Greddy draws power THROUGH THE SOLENOIDS. This is not enough current to actually activate the cams, but it has caused my MSS to stay on full time, as well as my radar detector. Here's the solution. Do not tap the cam(+) signal directly to the battery, instead, tap it to a source that is connected to the ignition. If need be, use the same source as the red/orange MSS wires are tapped to and run a 3rd wire through the firewall. I'm still looking for a good source in the engine bay to tap to.
The base settings should read as follows (hold "MODE" to access):
Top=little dash on top
Bottom=little dash on bottom
Pr - Top
C4 - Top
P2 - Top
When the 1 is shown, it says "ON"
When the 2 is shown, it says "ON"
In the actual parameter setup, I have (stock SR20VE cams):
1 (exhaust):
On 4800
Off 4790
Everything else is ZERO unless you set it for TPS or temp (only engages when warm).
2 (intake):
On 4600
Off 4590
Everything else is ZERO unless you set it for TPS or temp (only engages when warm).
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's a pic of how to hook it up:
Power source: Most people are confused as to what you should do with the red and orange wires. IMO, tie the red and orange together, tap it to an ACC source (cig lighter) and call it a day. It turns on and off just fine for me. Anything else is just more than it's worth.
I tapped my RPM signal to the back of the instrument cluster rather than to the ECU, I think this is MUCH easier than pulling out the ECU. This would be a blue/orange wire (center harness on the b14 and late B13....excluding the cars that don't come with a stock tach).
Don't tap the speed or any other parameters if you don't have to. RPM is the only signal you really need (unless you absolutely only want to activate the cams under certain throttle position). As soon as I unplugged my speed signal, my problems went away.
Another thing I noticed. Since the MSS provides the ground signal for activation, I'm sure most of you have tapped the other end of the solenoids to a constant positive battery source. It will work, however, I found out that when the car is off, the Greddy draws power THROUGH THE SOLENOIDS. This is not enough current to actually activate the cams, but it has caused my MSS to stay on full time, as well as my radar detector. Here's the solution. Do not tap the cam(+) signal directly to the battery, instead, tap it to a source that is connected to the ignition. If need be, use the same source as the red/orange MSS wires are tapped to and run a 3rd wire through the firewall. I'm still looking for a good source in the engine bay to tap to.