Thread: P11/B15 shifter rod and stabilizer for B13/b14 chassis

I pulled the linkage off my b13 and test fit it on the fixtures earlier tonight. The B13 compared to the P11 linkages are different enough, that I'm not sure I can mod them to fit. It may be easier to bend new tubing and weld new linkages...we'll see. The next step is to order a die for my bender so I can start mocking up a replica. In the mean time, I'll mock up the Keo's P11 linkage on my b13 w/ b15 trans for a quick test fit.

B13 selector on the P11 fixture


B13 stabilizer on the P11 fixture

This will fit B14 as well right? You got inbox on your FB page Javier.

I think its best the second option you wrote to start with a new tube instead of modifying current ones.

Thank you.

B14 are the same as B13

Very nice work, but what does this improve compared to just clearanceing the stock rods?

C

The whole point of this is to stop grinding and hogging away material that cannot be put back again. I had to have my P10 arm ground away to fit (a thank you @Manny) and it works. It feels different than any of my other cars and feels certainly different than how the P10 was with the older style transmission. I have a spare set of P10 arms so I can put a truly stock part back on that has not been ground away just to fit and have the shifting experience feel different than it should be. @Keo can testify to this is my reports are not up to par with those inquiring.

All the proof needed is really in the photos most recently posted. Those bends do affect how the shifts feel. For all we know, those bends could be placing extra stress on the internal parts of the transmission. I know folks that rest their hands on the shifter while driving and that harms gears. Same concept can apply here, I reckon.

I've heard of folks really taking the grinder to the end linkage which adds flexibility that wasn't there to begin with. I've heard minimal grinding can help, but I've also heard of some part swapping that can be done to make things perfect, and like it should be. However, I bet that involves finding this NLA part that Keo is pushing to have made.

The bends and how the rod gets from point A to point B doesn't matter one bit, excet for clearing the different chassis setups. It's the interfeirence at the transmission end that causes folks to have to grind things. Avoiding this is the goal I'd imagine.

@bhowle could shine more light on this I'm sure, as he's the one who described to me how it should be done (and he's done it).

I have to disagree in bold here. I'm not sure how to word it at the moment but will work on an explanation later.

I guess you're trying to say it acts as a torsion bar (or possibly as a spring) and thus the shape and material will have an effect? I guess I could see that in the extremes... Not sure about this situation though? It's a fun theory I guess.

more of the angle of the fork/shifter rod causing conflict to the actual shifting itself. the b13/b14 shifter fork is in a different location than the b15/p11, it's like .5-.75" to the right. not sure if that made any sense.

Yep, that's the same thing I was talking about in my first post that causes the clearance issues. We're on the same page.
It's the bends of the rod in the middle of the bar that really don't matter as long as it clears things. (And the best way to make sure it clears is to mimic the stock item.) That's what I was talking about when I said A to B doesn't matter. Kyle seems to think they might?