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Thread: Adjustable B13 Rear LCAs, gauging interest.

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Posts: 221-230 of 441
2012-05-08 02:24:38
#221
Still waiting on a reply from you. Pmed you twice.
2012-05-10 05:33:43
#222
PMs replied too
2012-05-20 14:59:10
#223
I got these man they are sick. Installing soon. Will post results.
2012-05-29 05:30:47
#224
Finally got these installed. All I can say is wow. What a nice piece of kit!

I was expecting a seriously harsh ride after this because of the heim joints, but I actually think that the car feels smoother over bumps, and its less noisy in the rear. Going over train tracks is no problem.

They were somewhat of a pain to install, mostly because of the long bolt that goes through the hub. Ever car that has parallel links has this problem. The bolt is so long and exposed that it inevitably seizes and nothing except the hammer of thor will budge it. I recently bought a spare sub frame and had to resort to a 10 lb sledge swung with everything I had (thor was busy) just to get the thing to move a few mm so I could cut it. The end of the bolt doubled in thickness from mushrooming.

To make matters worse, In North America you can not get a gtir bolt. They just don't have them. My go to dealer told me that Japan shows them as unavailable. After some research I settled on a Nissan Axxess bolt. The Axxess is a van that was sold in NA that came with the GTIR attessa (but with the ka24de). Strangely enough the AWD Axxess doesn't use a long parallel bolt, it uses two. The FWD Axxess however, uses a long bolt, and works as a replacement for the GTIR bolt although it is about 1 cm longer.

Solved right? WRONG. I bought the last one in Canada. That's right, one, not two. So blah blah, panic panic, research, grumble...anyway I found:

The Subaru STI uses a parrallel link setup and the bolt is almost the same just a little long(2 cm or so. The best part is they are only like 12 bucks a peice not 40 like the nissan one, and STIs will be around for much longer than our old Nissans so it is a good solution.

After snapping one of the old bolts, the other one actually broke loose with the help of a 5 foot breaker bar.

Install by setting the front arms to the proper length (I lined mine up to the stock arms), and then adjust the rear arms to set the toe. I plan on eliminating the eccentric bolt on the rear arm, but for now I set it all the way out to reduce the amount of thread that would be exposed on the heim joint.

On install, put some 14mm washers on the end of the bolt to take up the extra bolt length. Also remember to bath everything in Anti Seize.

That's it, put everything back together and enjoy!

On my coilovers these still have a fair bit of clearance at the front arms at full droop. I suspect that on stock suspension they would be getting close however due to lack of bend that the stock arms have.










Last edited by Lynx on 2012-05-29 at 05-36-13.
2012-05-29 05:35:49
#225
The install looks great, thanks for the pics! I just replied to you PM too.
2012-06-06 05:25:40
#226
Originally Posted by javierb14

b13 lcas for the '12 SR20 convention turned and burned

I got these

I can simply remove the end links and get them powder coated, right?
2012-06-06 15:59:04
#227
you putting them on the p10 joe?
2012-06-06 16:05:23
#228
P10 is not equal length bars like the B13, so Joe needs to put these on a B13. That was really nice of Nathan to pass those on to you Joe. He didn't want to try to fit them to the Miata?

Lynx I feel for yah on those rear bolts. They were a total bitch for me too. And thanks for the heads up on the Subaru bolts. Do the B13 rear bolts not match up?

When I get mine installed next, I have no doubt it will do wonders in the rear for me, and I'm not expecting much if any NVH increase either.
2012-06-07 02:05:28
#229
The GTiR has axles in the rear hubs so the arms are spaced further apart, aka the actual part of the hub the bolt goes through is longer. The bolt is about 9.5" total end to end. The Subaru STI bolt is around 10" end to end and needs 4 washers to take up the slack. I'm working on exact measurements so that there can be a couple spacers altered to give you the option of running the sti bolt.
2012-06-07 04:43:05
#230
Originally Posted by happynole
I got these

I can simply remove the end links and get them powder coated, right?


Affirmative!

Originally Posted by enohand
you putting them on the p10 joe?


Originally Posted by BenFenner
P10 is not equal length bars like the B13, so Joe needs to put these on a B13. That was really nice of Nathan to pass those on to you Joe. He didn't want to try to fit them to the Miata?

Lynx I feel for yah on those rear bolts. They were a total bitch for me too. And thanks for the heads up on the Subaru bolts. Do the B13 rear bolts not match up?

When I get mine installed next, I have no doubt it will do wonders in the rear for me, and I'm not expecting much if any NVH increase either.


If you need P10 links, send those back to me and I will exchange them for brand new P10 arms, no problemo

BTW, Miata parts are in development. My dad and brother picked up a 1st gen not too long ago for a spare daily d with road race duty on the weekend!

Originally Posted by Lynx
The GTiR has axles in the rear hubs so the arms are spaced further apart, aka the actual part of the hub the bolt goes through is longer. The bolt is about 9.5" total end to end. The Subaru STI bolt is around 10" end to end and needs 4 washers to take up the slack. I'm working on exact measurements so that there can be a couple spacers altered to give you the option of running the sti bolt.


Lynx, I started on your custom spacers for the STI bolts last weekend. Just say the word and we'll send them your way for test fitment.

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