Thread: Adjustable B13 Rear LCAs, gauging interest.

THX Ben.

I have to disagree with you slightly here Ben. You will still see binding at the trailing arm bushings.

There are essentially three kinds of binding happening in the rear suspension. Front to rear flex in the parallel link bushings (angular), front to rear tension/compression binding in the trailing arm bushings, and side-to-side flex in the trailing arm bushings (angular).

Replacing the ends of the parallel arms removes two of those points of bind, but the angular bind in the trailing arms remains. This is probably, by my guess, the least significant point of bind in the system, but it does exist.

Overall, in the rear suspension, you will see massively less binding than with ES bushings, or even stock rubber bushings.

And yes, I have been talking to Javier about custom trailing arms Doing away with the front bushing is easy. Doing way with the rear requires some rethinking of the joint (like putting a stud into the knuckle where the bushing is normally and relocating the pivot inwards and mounting a heim joint there), which could have unforeseen consequences, and probably isn't worth it.

Some of these things only become really obvious if you have a lot miore suspension travel than stock

Yah Vector, not sure why I forgot about that angle of binding. You're right.

Been swamped lately and have not had time to work on these. Definitely this weekend though I promise . Maybe a quick video/gif of the stock vs rod ended suspension through the range of motion would be helpful???

Here a couple of pics illustrating thread engagement on the rod ends when adjusted to stock lower control arm length. At this length, you can lengthen the arms by 1/8" before reaching min. recommended thread engagement or shorten them by 1/2" before bottoming out the heim/jam nut. Another cool feature of the chromoly version, is that they are easily customized, we can fab them shorter or longer to fit your setup

Is that 1/8" total lengthening ability, or is that per joint for a total of 1/4" on each link?
Same question about the 1/2". Is that per joint, or per link?

And that's the same with the aluminum ones, right?

I'm ready to buy a set of the aluminum ones with the highest grade joints whenever you're ready to start selling.

These allow for camber adjustment right? Also in a road racing setup. How would you keep the lock nut from coming loose?

What made you choose the alloy over the CM?

That is overall adjustment per radius rod. If you need more, I can change the length of the bars.



Yes, you can adjust camber with these. They are right and left hand threaded which means you can adjust them on the car. The aluminum version has a wrench flat machined into the rod to hold it in position while you torque down the jam nut.

The chromoly version will have a weld on jam nut that serves the same purpose. I was going to machine the weldable tube ends w/ a hex from chromoly, but hex bar stock and machining is kind of expensive. This weld on jam nut should help keep the parts affordable since it will be laser, plamsa, or waterjet cut

Javier, no need to make a different length rod for me. I was just making sure I understood things properly.

Less weight, and easier corrosion resistance were the main factors. I'm not worried about getting something super strong for what I'll be doing. Cheaper price is a bonus.