Thread: HELLLPPP!!!!! AEM V2 SR20VE MAP

What's up guys, I'm looking for a basemap for my car so I am able to take it to the dyno for the tuner to tune it and not start from scratch.
My setup is the following:

- SR 16VE Head
- Built block (9.0:1 C pistons)
- 740cc injectors
- precision 5558
- distributor
- AEM EMS V2

If there is anything I missed out on let me know. I just need this to have something to get the car started. Most of the posts with igntion maps and fuel maps the photos are no longer available unfortunately.

Hopefully someone can help me out thanks.

Do you have a tune you've been trying to work with that might be close but just need someone to look it over?

I also have an AEM V2 tune for I think an SR20DE+T with 740cc injectors that could be made to work.
What cam-angle sensor are you using?
Are you using a MAF or MAP+IAT? If MAF, which one? If MAP+IAT I'll need brands/specs.

When do you need this car starting and running by? What's the timeline here? Do you already have a tuning date scheduled?

If there are images missing for any of my posts that you'd like to see, I can probably dig them up and edit the post to restore it. Let me know.

Pm'd

Post the details here please.

I am using a AEM 3.5 BAR MAP, GM AIT, as for pick up I'm using the OB1 Distributor with the AEM CAS. Im looking to get it tuned in the next coming weeks once the weather begins to get better up here in Canada.

Also I have the vvl setup to come on together @5000rpm.

So to confirm, that's the 24+1 AEM CAS? Happy to see that.

And you're using the distributor for ignition? No coil-on-plug right?
Are you using Nismo 740cc injectors? Mainly wondering if they are 11 Ohm resistance...

What happens with the car right now when you crank it? Do you get RPM signal? Does it try to fire? Does it fire and try to catch an idle? I assume it doesn't idle?

E-mail me your current tune (e-mail in PM) and let me compare it to what I have. I'm almost positive you'll want to use one of my tunes as a base. They are so much better setup in many ways than anything you'll find elsewhere...
In the mean time, I will work on one of mine to get it setup for you.

Edit: I have looked over one of the tunes I have and it is already setup for your exact configuration. 24+1 CAS, distributor for ignition, 740cc injectors, AEM 3.5-bar MAP, GM/AEM IAT sensor. It should do the trick, maybe with a little tweaking. I will e-mail it to you now and you can give it a try. First you're looking for an RPM signal in the AEM software during cranking. Then you want to hear the engine try to fire, then it should fire and attempt to catch an idle. Lastly it should hold an idle.

Yes to distributor with the 24+1 CAS. yes to the Nismo 740cc not sure the resistance. It fires idles but AFRs are at 12.0s and lower. Thanks I will let you know how it goes thanks

What should I set my vvl to and should I seperate exhaust and intake cam? What timing retard or advance do you set for the vvl?

Oh, it fires and idles? Well then what's the problem?

Does it not drive? How far away is your tuner? Just drive it there if it's not too bad and not too far.

So the AFRs are rich? If it drives, just take it there...

Or if you'd like you can e-mail me the tune and I'll see what I can do about leaning it out some. How does it drive otherwise?

It sounds like you're VERY close, so don't use the tune I sent you. Continue with what you have if it fires and idles.

These are all questions your tuner will answer, and are best answered on the dyno.

Yes, you'll want to activate the intake and exhaust cam separately (spread apart by 100-300 RPM or so). You don't set timing advance/retard for the VVL. That's not how this works. The cams switch, and you get more (or less) air which moves to you a different part of the ignition map, which will adjust the timing accordingly.

The best RPM to set the switch points for the cams will be determined on the dyno. You will do a run with low cams only, then a run with high cams only, then figure out where those HP curves cross and switch them around then. Then retest with a dyno run while switching the cams for a sanity check.