Hey VMK,
What is your base timing??
I can grab my current bin for you (200+ whp), but it is pretty similar to those already posted. If your tuner thought 20deg timing adv at wot on that first map was "good" you might want to get a new tuner
.
Keep in mind small adjustments make a big difference when dialing in timing. Best done on the dyno - it can be very hard to do by feel when you are chasing that last 5whp.
Technically you should see some peaks and troughs on a "perfect" tune as the intake and exhaust tubes go through resonance harmonics. This is after allot of dyno time where cell by cell tuning is done. I would not expect a huge change when your cams switch if they are at the proper RPM (you want a smooth slope to HP going up with no jump or drop off). Cam switching is another item best tuned with a dyno so you can see where the low cams begin to loose efficiency and when it is best to bring in the bigger cam. No reason you can't do this on the street just remember if you are "feeling" a huge power shift you most likely have the wrong switching RPM. I am switching both cams at 5300rpm, it is pretty seamless.
If you are getting allot of poor low/mid rpm performance I would suggest driving around with your maptrace up and just see what the ecu is using for cells on your timing map. At the same time watch your wideband and see if things are going really rich or lean. It can be easy to get yourself mixed up on either too much or to little timing advance and then your going to have major drivability issues! I think with the Nismotronic you can also datalog all of this (and knock voltage) then go over your logs.
Hope this helps a bit, keep at it!
Walker
What is your base timing??
I can grab my current bin for you (200+ whp), but it is pretty similar to those already posted. If your tuner thought 20deg timing adv at wot on that first map was "good" you might want to get a new tuner
.Keep in mind small adjustments make a big difference when dialing in timing. Best done on the dyno - it can be very hard to do by feel when you are chasing that last 5whp.
Technically you should see some peaks and troughs on a "perfect" tune as the intake and exhaust tubes go through resonance harmonics. This is after allot of dyno time where cell by cell tuning is done. I would not expect a huge change when your cams switch if they are at the proper RPM (you want a smooth slope to HP going up with no jump or drop off). Cam switching is another item best tuned with a dyno so you can see where the low cams begin to loose efficiency and when it is best to bring in the bigger cam. No reason you can't do this on the street just remember if you are "feeling" a huge power shift you most likely have the wrong switching RPM. I am switching both cams at 5300rpm, it is pretty seamless.
If you are getting allot of poor low/mid rpm performance I would suggest driving around with your maptrace up and just see what the ecu is using for cells on your timing map. At the same time watch your wideband and see if things are going really rich or lean. It can be easy to get yourself mixed up on either too much or to little timing advance and then your going to have major drivability issues! I think with the Nismotronic you can also datalog all of this (and knock voltage) then go over your logs.
Hope this helps a bit, keep at it!
Walker
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