Thread: RWD SR20VE(T) tuning suggestions

This is my first go around with Nismotronic and John was very helpful, but I don't want to bother him too much so I'm just looking for any little things you found tricky, warning signs or whatever you feel like sharing. I've been researching and researching and working my ass off learning EFI Tuning and I haven't posted here much at all, just reading. This is my first tuning project and I'm just trying to collect as much pertinent insight before hand as I can.

My setup is in a USDM S14 swapped to S13 redtop SR20DET now completing the change to the P11 SR20VE head with Mazworx solenoid kit, SR16VE non-N1 cams, Supertech springs, 86.5mm 11.0:1 CP VE pistons, Manley I-beam rods, 8cw crank, synapse tubular exhaust manifold, .82 ar T3 TD06H4 FP73HTA turbo (54lb/min, so not big, but great mid-range and free flowing) to 3" exhaust, synapse 40mm EWG open dump, 650hp HMIC, Q45 TB, Xcessive plenum with JGY 120lb top feed high impedance injectors, walbro 400lph, Nismo fpr @ 3 bar, S2K denso coils, NGK 8 heat plugs @ .028 and factory crank venting with a CC off the intake.

Running 100 octane fuel with 90/10 water/meth activated at 8psi of boost, koyo rad and an oil cooler, omni 4 bar map sensor with GM IAT, aem wideband, oil temp/pressure, EGT and a Greddy EBC. I'd like to take advantage of boost by speed but I'll probably be running up to 35psi if i don't become knock limited (which I wasn't with the 9:1 DET setup.

I use the car to do maybe 5k miles of street driving a season and really just want it to be fucking awesome yet smooth at road course trackdays with occasional drag races. Got the comp twin disc, z32 Trans, decent roll center correction, ISC 12/8kg coils, CTS-V front and z32 rear brakes, 1/2 cage, a good seat with decent tires so it's a blast out there. I plan to pickup a precision 6266 for drag racing eventually and think I have some room to push on E85 if I care to switch later.

As of now, I'm curious about the ~3,500rpm VVL switch over point keeping it smooth at part throttle and best power so 50% throttle and ECT based compensations work well? Make 2 maps? Activate VVL at higher RPM in part throttle conditions? any little warning signs that this tends to show? I know this turbo will be done way before, but I want to be able to wind it out to the 10k RPM area if I need to so general successful timing and AFRs you find the VE likes and what to look for would all be much appreciated.

JK Tuning loaded me a basemap, but I'm open to anything at this point as I'm waiting for the laptop to come in Monday so I can open it all up for the first time and get the wiring done. I wanted the ID1300s, but JGY talked me into their 120lbs (also helped the budget a lot) without enough research on them (now it's fun getting them on the phone) but I'm curious about latency tables if anyone has experience with these injectors or can tell me where to look.

woof, that's a lot of info so thanks in advance.

the only thing in your list i dont like is the JGY stuff. lol however seems like you have a good start on your project. tuning isnt really too difficult esp if you have a dyno near by..

at the time I wanted a higher ceiling for power potential and the ID1300s were too expensive and he just talked me into his 1250s which I haven't actually tried yet, so maybe they're good, but I have no data on them and I'm thinking the only way to ditch them is to exchange for ID1000s.

You think the ID1000s would hit 800whp non ethanol fuel? I'd only ever push to 700, but I'd like to not be near their max at 700whp...

I run id1000s.. idk what their ceiling is.. id rather run a known good product.. if you have injectors fail during hard use you could lose an engine. .

and the IDs have all the info you could ever want to get the tune spot on...which I wasn't really aware of to look for at the time.

Google jgy sr20 an I bet you will find handfulls upon handfulls of info about them.. no good..

But yes you are absolutely correct

after a bit more searching, I'm thinking the ID1000s will work for the power I'm making, but I'd like to have room to easily switch to a bigger turbo for drags which would require at least the 1260s without maxing them so maybe I'll see what I can find about the JGYs then decide :/

Sounds like you've got a sweet setup!



Activating VVL with throttle&ECT conditions works really well. Don't be afraid to play around with activation points, dyno should get you the best result, but you can roadtune.

I activate my p12 20V cams @ 4000 rpm. I tried activating at at 4600 rpm but due to the turbo coming alive also at that rpm, had alot of turbulence and crazy dips in my a/f ratio

also, if you're engaging both solenoids at once just change your rpm scales (both timing and fuel maps) to match the activation point (or a few rpm before activation eg:50-100rpm) so you then know once you're equal to or above VVL switch rpm you will tune that area of the map only.

tip: if you datalog the injector ms/afm voltage, graph either against rpm and you'll get an accurate idea of your 'wouldbe' dyno curve shape. if there are no humps/bumps around the vvl activation section, then you're pretty much guaranteed a smooth switch over. nice to do before you get to the dyno, so you can then focus on your timing maps etc.

I'm switching the compressor to the GTX3576 wheel on the TD06H4 turbine and ditched the garbage JGY fuel pieces for Xcessive top feed with ID1000s and added a flow sensor to the water injection system to activate more aggreseive maps too so it'll be a bit more fun with an extra chunk of power available.

I'm running SD with a GM IAT and Omni 4bar map sensor so do u think the ms/map to rpm logging smoothness would give a similar idea of VVL crossover smoothness as the ms/afm voltage to rpm logging u mentioned blood?