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Thread: Cleaning the engine bay, emissions removal, EGR Solenoid Bypass Question

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Posts: 1-6 of 6
2013-05-25 17:40:08
#1
Cleaning the engine bay, emissions removal, EGR Solenoid Bypass Question
So I've search around for a good 20-30 minutes this morning, and I couldn't find too much information regarding the black EGR (and sometimes EVAP) solenoid, depending on the year of your car. I am not referencing the brown or green MAP/Baro or EVAP solenoids on 98-99 SR20DE engines. Anyway, its the 2-prong connection, 3 vacuum port solenoid on the back of our motors, that doesn't do too much after you set up your ECU with a 68k ohm resistor to bypass the EGR system.

Anyway, I'm trying to figure out how to clean any unnecessary accessories under my hood to prep for a clean, boost-leak, free turbo setup. The easy solution, and I get it, is to just leave it plugged in. I'm looking for something cleaner than that though.

I was wondering if anyone had removed the black egr/evap solenoid before. My car runs a 10-05 (1005, 10 05, 10,5 for anyone else searching) error code when it is removed. According to the FSM, it appears the ECU really just checks this solenoid to see if there is continuity in the line. I was thinking you could just jump the line (or plug off the harness) with a wire and call it a day? Would this work, has anyone else found another solution?
Last edited by ferrari21 on 2013-05-25 at 17-44-20.
2013-05-25 18:55:09
#2
Basically, what I am trying to ask here, is can you get away with bypassing the EGR solenoid (not having it on the car) and jumping the connector (that plugs into the egr solenoid) with a wire? Will the ECU read current going through and not throw a 1005 code?

This question is specific for only cars that are not running an EGR and are bypassing the EGR system with a resistor. Just wanted to clarify. Thanks for any help or insight.
2013-05-25 19:33:13
#3
Do a test run and find out? Sorry, I'm not much help here.
Maybe measure the resistance of the solenoid and put a resistor in place?
2013-05-25 19:58:23
#4
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Do a test run and find out? Sorry, I'm not much help here.
Maybe measure the resistance of the solenoid and put a resistor in place?


Thanks, I think that's what I might do, the solenoid is a simple coil, and the voltage on start up is 11-14v. I know a wire would fix the signal issue the ECU is looking for on the start up, just concerned about how the ECU might react when it attempts to activate the solenoid? I'm not much of an electronics type of guy, but I thought a wire in the place of the solenoid coil should yield a similar result.

Doing a wire tuck really soon too, and removing a lot of unnecessary plugs on my 99 P11 harness. I would like everything I have under the hood very clean and as simple as possible.
Last edited by ferrari21 on 2013-05-25 at 19-59-35.
2013-05-26 13:14:14
#5
If it is a controlled output of the ECU putting a jumper in there will damage the circuit when it tries to activate it. You will have 12v on one side and the ECU will try to ground the other side when activated, a short (jumper) will create too much current and either destroy the circuit in the ECU or if you are lucky the ECU will have a current limit and protect itself. Coils, even though they are a piece of wire, do have resistance and will current limit. I would suggest a 10K ohm resistor to start. This should have a low enough current to prevent any damage.
2013-05-26 13:42:50
#6
Originally Posted by squirlz
If it is a controlled output of the ECU putting a jumper in there will damage the circuit when it tries to activate it. You will have 12v on one side and the ECU will try to ground the other side when activated, a short (jumper) will create too much current and either destroy the circuit in the ECU or if you are lucky the ECU will have a current limit and protect itself. Coils, even though they are a piece of wire, do have resistance and will current limit. I would suggest a 10K ohm resistor to start. This should have a low enough current to prevent any damage.


That makes much more sense. I was a bit apprehensive from trying something like a jumper in the place of the solenoid, and I'm glad I didn't actually try it.

I will try a resistor like you suggested.
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