The way I learned to tune my Calum RT setup (OBD2), w/ TunerPro RT is this:
First thing I did was find a suitable base tune (.bin file) for my set-up.
Next, I made sure to check that the VQ table was correct, as well as check the injector scaling constant (you don't have this as you are OBD1, the injector latency, rev limiter, etc.
Next, I adjusted the k Value (based upon the specific formula for OBD2). You of course are OBD1 so it would be different.
Then, I disabled the front O2 sensor and went cruising on the highway. I made sure to keep the revs at appx. 3100 under light/cruising loads. Keep it steady. I then adjusted the K value until my cruising AFR's were 14.7ish. (Actually, I shot for 14.9-15.3 for slightly better gas mileage). Now your k value is set.
At this point in time, I re-enabled my O2 sensor and went to work on the rest of the map. I used my wideand and my pupils to watch the AFR in relation to the TP and related values. I used calumsult to datalog my TP and voltage specific (MAF, inj. duty, etc.) values. Then I adjusted my fuel maps and TP scales accordingly. Without wideband datalogging, this was A LOT of trial and error! Adjust, test, adjust, test.....
As 5speed mentioned earlier, you can raise or lower your injector latency (lag time, dead time) to lean out or richen up the idle. You shouldn't need to mess with this too much though. If you find you need to make drastic changes here, then something may very well be off somewhere else.
I understand that OBD2 uses target AFR's and OBD1 is slightly different, but I believe the basic tuning process should be the same. It will be the timing and fuel map values that will look different.
As far as primary and seconday fuel/timing maps, just make sure they are the same. Primary fuel should match secondary fuel, etc, etc etc.
This should at the very least get you to a dyno and a tuner if you don't feel comfortable continuing to mess with stuff.
Don't play around with the timing maps too much unless you are sure the values are safe. A dyno is really the only way to be 100% certain for timing adjustment.
Make sure you don't have any vac leaks as well, before you start the tuning process, as this will throw off the tune. Make sure the MAF wire is clean too!!
Make sure you have a wideband!!!!
First thing I did was find a suitable base tune (.bin file) for my set-up.
Next, I made sure to check that the VQ table was correct, as well as check the injector scaling constant (you don't have this as you are OBD1, the injector latency, rev limiter, etc.
Next, I adjusted the k Value (based upon the specific formula for OBD2). You of course are OBD1 so it would be different.
Then, I disabled the front O2 sensor and went cruising on the highway. I made sure to keep the revs at appx. 3100 under light/cruising loads. Keep it steady. I then adjusted the K value until my cruising AFR's were 14.7ish. (Actually, I shot for 14.9-15.3 for slightly better gas mileage). Now your k value is set.
At this point in time, I re-enabled my O2 sensor and went to work on the rest of the map. I used my wideand and my pupils to watch the AFR in relation to the TP and related values. I used calumsult to datalog my TP and voltage specific (MAF, inj. duty, etc.) values. Then I adjusted my fuel maps and TP scales accordingly. Without wideband datalogging, this was A LOT of trial and error! Adjust, test, adjust, test.....
As 5speed mentioned earlier, you can raise or lower your injector latency (lag time, dead time) to lean out or richen up the idle. You shouldn't need to mess with this too much though. If you find you need to make drastic changes here, then something may very well be off somewhere else.
I understand that OBD2 uses target AFR's and OBD1 is slightly different, but I believe the basic tuning process should be the same. It will be the timing and fuel map values that will look different.
As far as primary and seconday fuel/timing maps, just make sure they are the same. Primary fuel should match secondary fuel, etc, etc etc.
This should at the very least get you to a dyno and a tuner if you don't feel comfortable continuing to mess with stuff.
Don't play around with the timing maps too much unless you are sure the values are safe. A dyno is really the only way to be 100% certain for timing adjustment.
Make sure you don't have any vac leaks as well, before you start the tuning process, as this will throw off the tune. Make sure the MAF wire is clean too!!
Make sure you have a wideband!!!!
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Originally Posted by SR20? 
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