Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: In Between Shifts Richness

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 11-20 of 50
2010-05-18 12:43:40
#11
Originally Posted by Vadim
Blow through recircing, Nissan does it on purpose to richen it up between shifts, it supposedly helps the smooth shifts. Trying to find a table for it to turn it down. If I turn down the K value any more then it gets too lean at idle.


Stop playing with your K value! I don't know how many times I have to repeat this. The K value is not your "fix all". You should not touch it. You should see an lean mixture in between shifting and on decel. That's a function to clean your plugs. Your idle timing and fuel map are used to correct a lean idle. Your timing and fuel maps are to be used when driving. Your decel control is used to adjust your AFR when shifting. Think about it, when you let off the throttle, decel is in effect. Even if only for a split second.


Originally Posted by Topdog781
I always thought those back fires were caused from the excess fuel left over in the intake manifold being sucking in between shifts. That's what I thought caused those back fires.


Not only this, but also from left over fuel from the combustion cycle that combusts in the exhaust from the heat of the exhaust manifold, etc.

Originally Posted by Vadim
It can be, but I run rich, at WOT, below 12, and no muffler fires. Now it mainly muffler fires in first and second gears hehe.

Back fire is when the combustion flame goes back into the intake manifold and explodes in the intake mani. Results in this thread.


No. That's only intake backfire. Not exhaust backfire. Intake backfire is bad, exhaust backfire? Not so much. My car is richer than yours in WOT, (around 10.9~11.1 right now), and I have no backfire issue. Your tune needs to be done right. STOP PLAYING WITH K VALUES.

Originally Posted by Vadim
Oh no it makes sense to buy it if you are starting fresh. Other then having some newly defined Tables/Functions (which are so far useless), I have no reason for it. If I didn't have Data scan it would help, I see that it support AEM UEGO for data logging!

Since it's such a short trial, I can't even see the benefits of it. Because I can't do a test run to see what it can offer over what I currently use. Which btw I paid for Data Scan and even Tuner Pro. Both pieces of software are exceptional and have helped me a great deal thus far.

Does Nistune knock count actually work? I didn't see any references to the knock sensor in the address files.


The OEM Knock sensor doesn't do anything above 3500~3800RPM, ask Dave for specifics as far as the acoustic range of the knock sensor.

Get rid of your AEM UEGO. Buy an LC-1 wideband, you'll love yourself for it. The AEM IMHO is garbage. It doesn't update fast enough to tell you what's going on with the AFR. You could be adjusting the wrong cells in the map.

Nistune software is easy to use, but so is TunerPro if you know what you're doing.
2010-05-18 13:22:46
#12
Though I know you probably have a super smart reason, why do you run blow through and recirc? Like BOV before MAF and recirc to turbo intake?
2010-05-18 13:30:43
#13
The only reason I can think of, is stealth. If you were going to go thru the trouble to do this, though, I would have just left it draw thru.
2010-05-18 15:21:17
#14
When I recirc-ed my blow through setup it stopped backfiring altogether.

Listen to them and stop messing with the K value.
2010-05-18 21:12:57
#15
As a matter of fact I was asking about this earlier because I had draw thru vented and of course it backfired. Every one told me to blow thru, but isnt it easier to mess with the decel fuel and timing tables while I get to "blow-throughing" it??? But since my neutral switch doesnt work this will not work.
2010-05-18 22:56:41
#16
I'm draw thru and I get backfires. I got an exhaust leak that might be contributing though lol Maybe boost to
2010-05-19 02:46:43
#17
Originally Posted by Cliff
Stop playing with your K value! I don't know how many times I have to repeat this. The K value is not your "fix all". You should not touch it. You should see an lean mixture in between shifting and on decel. That's a function to clean your plugs. Your idle timing and fuel map are used to correct a lean idle. Your timing and fuel maps are to be used when driving. Your decel control is used to adjust your AFR when shifting. Think about it, when you let off the throttle, decel is in effect. Even if only for a split second.


Jeez Cliff, got up on the wrong side? . You have never told me to stop playing with the K value. And actually K value is NOT fix all, and you are judging without knowing the whole side of the story . I have 550cc injectors, finding a tune for them is equally hard as looking for an STI tune.

When I first fired up the car, after T28 swap and 550cc injector swap, I used the 550cc tune that I found on the forums. It was below 10:1 at idle, dirty rich. K value was at 314. I'm at 210 now and now it works quite well. It's definitely rich between shifts, drops down to 12-13.

Once again getting back to judging without knowing the whole story. I am on a B14 ecu... Closest thing to Deceleration that I have is E4B0 - Timing Advance - Deceleration. I can correct Idle timing but not fuel.

TO change AFRs, I can update the K value, update the injector latency, or update the fuel maps, but O2 sensor feedback ignores it, unless it's in open loop.

I just started playing with TTP Max, unfortunately TTP Min doesn't exist .

Originally Posted by Cliff

No. That's only intake backfire. Not exhaust backfire. Intake backfire is bad, exhaust backfire? Not so much. My car is richer than yours in WOT, (around 10.9~11.1 right now), and I have no backfire issue. Your tune needs to be done right. STOP PLAYING WITH K VALUES.


See above, muffler fire only happens in low gears, most of the time probably because it gets full of fuel from cold start acceleration.


Originally Posted by Cliff

The OEM Knock sensor doesn't do anything above 3500~3800RPM, ask Dave for specifics as far as the acoustic range of the knock sensor.

Get rid of your AEM UEGO. Buy an LC-1 wideband, you'll love yourself for it. The AEM IMHO is garbage. It doesn't update fast enough to tell you what's going on with the AFR. You could be adjusting the wrong cells in the map.

Nistune software is easy to use, but so is TunerPro if you know what you're doing.


I'm planning on getting an external light. UEGO is actually not bad, it was spot on with the Dyno A/F ratios. I hate the fact that I can't data log it, but maybe that's a sign for me to get a AEM Standalone . I'm trying to work with what I already have, spending any more money on the car might not slide too well with the wifey.

Tunerpro is easier IMO, but I'm a tinker, TunerPro lets you update XDF's on the fly, while Nistune can be rather difficult with that.

Originally Posted by Cliff
The only reason I can think of, is stealth. If you were going to go thru the trouble to do this, though, I would have just left it draw thru.


I did open BOV for a while, got too much attention. I ran out of space draw-through wise, thus I went blow through.
2010-05-19 19:25:08
#18
V - Don't take it to heart. I have mentioned to many people not to just adjust the K value, as it isn't a fix all. You were just thrown in with that group that I've spoken to repeatedly.

I've got something to send you.
2010-05-19 20:16:23
#19
Haha no worries cliff, i just didnt want to be associated with the crowd that doesnt research. Ive been staying up till 4 am reading and messing with tunes
2010-05-19 20:46:28
#20
I sent you that stuff. Read it, then read it again and again. It's going to take a while for it all to absorb, and I HIGHLY suggest you do a brain dump and read it as if you knew nothing about tuning.

That guide will help you see the light.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top