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Thread: Timing Maps for Tuning

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Posts: 51-60 of 156
2011-02-11 16:10:21
#51
I don't know how the OEM Nissan ECUs and daughter board Nissan ECUs work, but I wouldn't put it past them to fiddle with timing like you've described happens on the Honda ECUs. That would be a question for Dave me thinks. If that's true, then comparing these maps would be very problematic, as you've said.

(AEM can "fiddle" with the timing too, but only if you tell it to. And you have complete control over it. For example, you can pull timing based on intake air temps which is a common thing to do. But it's not going to do anything "behind your back" like the OEM ECUs might do.)
2011-02-11 16:16:39
#52
Originally Posted by BenFenner
(AEM can "fiddle" with the timing too, but only if you tell it to. And you have complete control over it. For example, you can pull timing based on intake air temps which is a common thing to do. But it's not going to do anything "behind your back" like the OEM ECUs might do.)


I am pretty sure Dave would have found any timing additions over stock if they were in there. Dave knows this code inside and out!

AEM can do pretty much everything the stock ECU can do and more, but you definitely have to pay attention to the offset and timing drift with the aftermarket ECUs more-so than the OEM ECUs.

I have had cars come in with AEM with mechanical timing dead on and have to offset the timing values up to 8-10 degrees to get it to sync up. I have also had some pretty serious high RPM drift on some S2000 setups that required messing with how it is setup out of the box.

But I agree, I might pass this question on over to Dave and see what he thinks. But as far as I know there is no such table.
2011-02-11 16:33:29
#53
Originally Posted by JKTUNING
I have had cars come in with AEM with mechanical timing dead on and have to offset the timing values up to 8-10 degrees to get it to sync up. I have also had some pretty serious high RPM drift on some S2000 setups that required messing with how it is setup out of the box
Now that you mention it, I did check my timing drift at high rpm!
When putting in the new 24+1 CAS disc and setting the timing back correctly I did go through and check timing drift at high rpm since I saw a setting to compensate for it (I figured I would check). I think my timing light spazzed out above 5k rpm (maybe one reason not to buy cheap timing lights) so I couldn't check any higher but there was zero timing drift that I saw all the way up to 5k rpm so I didn't worry about checking any higher. I didn't require any setting change. (I forget what the setting is called exactly.)

I can't say we did the same for the GT3076R tune. =/

Mine has no drift though.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2011-02-11 at 16-50-02.
2011-02-11 16:38:30
#54
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Now that you mention it, I did check my rpm drift at high rpm!

Mine has no drift though.


Most of them don't have any drift and ARE rock solid through out the rev range.

It is a must to check each one when you are setting it up, I have only seen severe drift on 2-3 cars out of the numerous cars I have tuned on AEM over the past couple years.

I can't say I have had this problem with any Nissan vehicles, the two I had the issue with were Honda and Toyota.
2011-02-11 18:05:32
#55
Would you guys say getting the timing reading from the ECU is reliable enough, or should I check it mechanically at higher RPM's?

Reason I ask is, on a data log I can see where the ECU starts interpolating with timing, that's when I know to readjust my TP scales. But shouldn't that be accurate enough to mechanical timing even if the knock sensor is retarding the timing?
2011-02-11 18:32:04
#56
Originally Posted by BenFenner

How many AEM base ignition maps have you used on bone stock applications?

The honda s2000 is a map they spent some time on. There might be others but that one is decent.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
I too took the pressure scale on the left and modified it to fit me needs. I like a lot of resolution in the vacuum section, so I have the pressures go in 10 kPa increments. Then once in boost I start going with 30 kPa increments because I don't need much resolution in boost. I don't go all the way up to 350 kPa either (even though I have a 3.5-Bar MAP sensor).
I haven't scaled the rpm like you have. I didn't find the need to really. I can see why it would be beneficial and I might try it in the future, but since the car idles great and the air/fuel ratios don't have any issues between cells I haven't found much need to modify the rpm scale. (Obviously anything past 8,000 rpm is untuned and stupid retarded on purpose.)

I thought I had 13 degrees of timing at 170 kPa (10 psi) but it looks like I have 16.9 (call it 17) degrees there at torque peak (5,500 rpm). Not sure how you feel about that...


its better than 28

Originally Posted by BenFenner

If you see where I am at 100 kPa (0 psi) and where I am at 170 kPa (10 psi) you'll see I'm removing about 1 whole degree for every 1 psi above atmospheric. Honestly, I thought I was removing more. I'm going to double check the map actually loaded in the ECU. It will probably be the same though. =/


With some ECUs where you don't have total control over the the timing then it makes sense to log it always. I've found there isn't much need with AEM to log timing on a regular basis because it does what you tell it to without doing anything tricky if you know what you're doing. If I'm going to tune timing (instead of fuel) obviously I'd recommend logging it.

I have plenty of logs of my tune I believe with timing logged as well that we could look at if we want. And I can take the car and check timing at high rpm with the timing light if you insist.


You always want to make sure the timing is stable and not bouncing to different numbers.
2011-02-11 18:37:38
#57
Originally Posted by JKTUNING
A tuned map will NEVER look anything like that.

You have almost a 20 degree swing in ignition at one point and that is going to be WAY to low for an AEM.

The way the stock timing table is setup in the stock ECU is overly conservative in the transition portions of the ignition table. There are huge swings in timing all over the place.


This is just generic I would always smooth transition when im finishing a tune. I just try to keep the timing in a controlled area. I just want to see solid numbers when doing a pull. with a 30r you would probably will not be at 1 psi and 5000 rpms during a pull, but I would make a better transition.
2011-02-11 18:45:58
#58
Originally Posted by JKTUNING
I am pretty sure Dave would have found any timing additions over stock if they were in there. Dave knows this code inside and out!

AEM can do pretty much everything the stock ECU can do and more, but you definitely have to pay attention to the offset and timing drift with the aftermarket ECUs more-so than the OEM ECUs.

I have had cars come in with AEM with mechanical timing dead on and have to offset the timing values up to 8-10 degrees to get it to sync up. I have also had some pretty serious high RPM drift on some S2000 setups that required messing with how it is setup out of the box.

But I agree, I might pass this question on over to Dave and see what he thinks. But as far as I know there is no such table.


I have seen this also especially on mitsubishis. The cam sensors are horrible on the second gens. You have to make sure the timing is right between ecu and mechanical timing.
2011-02-11 18:58:36
#59
Originally Posted by supercowboy
its better than 28
To be fair, the only daughter board tune posted that goes to 10 psi had 22 degrees timing there.
2011-02-11 19:10:14
#60
Alright here is Ethalpy's tune by his description, no smoothing.

Everything to the left of zero is to be considered as vaccuum (inHg), 0 is 0 PSI and everything to the right of 0 is PSI (5psi, 10psi and 14.7 (rounded) to 15psi).


I followed his RPM scale too, but had one extra field, thus I added 4700rpm (which is irrelevant because 4500-5000rpm ranges are identical.
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