Thread: Timing Maps for Tuning

I don't know how the OEM Nissan ECUs and daughter board Nissan ECUs work, but I wouldn't put it past them to fiddle with timing like you've described happens on the Honda ECUs. That would be a question for Dave me thinks. If that's true, then comparing these maps would be very problematic, as you've said.

(AEM can "fiddle" with the timing too, but only if you tell it to. And you have complete control over it. For example, you can pull timing based on intake air temps which is a common thing to do. But it's not going to do anything "behind your back" like the OEM ECUs might do.)

I am pretty sure Dave would have found any timing additions over stock if they were in there. Dave knows this code inside and out!

AEM can do pretty much everything the stock ECU can do and more, but you definitely have to pay attention to the offset and timing drift with the aftermarket ECUs more-so than the OEM ECUs.

I have had cars come in with AEM with mechanical timing dead on and have to offset the timing values up to 8-10 degrees to get it to sync up. I have also had some pretty serious high RPM drift on some S2000 setups that required messing with how it is setup out of the box.

But I agree, I might pass this question on over to Dave and see what he thinks. But as far as I know there is no such table.

Now that you mention it, I did check my timing drift at high rpm!
When putting in the new 24+1 CAS disc and setting the timing back correctly I did go through and check timing drift at high rpm since I saw a setting to compensate for it (I figured I would check). I think my timing light spazzed out above 5k rpm (maybe one reason not to buy cheap timing lights) so I couldn't check any higher but there was zero timing drift that I saw all the way up to 5k rpm so I didn't worry about checking any higher. I didn't require any setting change. (I forget what the setting is called exactly.)

I can't say we did the same for the GT3076R tune. =/

Mine has no drift though.

Most of them don't have any drift and ARE rock solid through out the rev range.

It is a must to check each one when you are setting it up, I have only seen severe drift on 2-3 cars out of the numerous cars I have tuned on AEM over the past couple years.

I can't say I have had this problem with any Nissan vehicles, the two I had the issue with were Honda and Toyota.

Would you guys say getting the timing reading from the ECU is reliable enough, or should I check it mechanically at higher RPM's?

Reason I ask is, on a data log I can see where the ECU starts interpolating with timing, that's when I know to readjust my TP scales. But shouldn't that be accurate enough to mechanical timing even if the knock sensor is retarding the timing?

The honda s2000 is a map they spent some time on. There might be others but that one is decent.



its better than 28



You always want to make sure the timing is stable and not bouncing to different numbers.

This is just generic I would always smooth transition when im finishing a tune. I just try to keep the timing in a controlled area. I just want to see solid numbers when doing a pull. with a 30r you would probably will not be at 1 psi and 5000 rpms during a pull, but I would make a better transition.

I have seen this also especially on mitsubishis. The cam sensors are horrible on the second gens. You have to make sure the timing is right between ecu and mechanical timing.

To be fair, the only daughter board tune posted that goes to 10 psi had 22 degrees timing there.

Alright here is Ethalpy's tune by his description, no smoothing.

Everything to the left of zero is to be considered as vaccuum (inHg), 0 is 0 PSI and everything to the right of 0 is PSI (5psi, 10psi and 14.7 (rounded) to 15psi).


I followed his RPM scale too, but had one extra field, thus I added 4700rpm (which is irrelevant because 4500-5000rpm ranges are identical.