Thread: Timing Maps for Tuning

Right, it would be direct translation to and from the ECU.

No need to do a bunch of calculations, that is what the computer is for.

Excellent! Thank you guys (Dave and John) a lot!

Your right, But when you look at this map even where the tp scale says he is in boost the timing numbers are high. Im just going on what is stated. Another thing you have to look at is the car might be falling back to the knock map if timing is to high. for all we know the car might be seeing stock values in the knock map and the car will drive fine. no matter how you set the map up your full throttle should be in the last 2 columns. When I see a factory map the last 2 columns are in low teens or even single digits. Im sure nissan spent a crap load of money to figure this out. Why not start out withe a nissan base value and move up.



In a Gtir stock timing map the car will see 15 degrees of timing at 3000 rpm at 60 tp. So what your telling me is advancing this 13 degrees is ok and a good place to start. In my experience as boost goes up timing goes down. even enthalpy timing theory starts the cars at 19 psi which I still think its much, But again he is going by a typical rule of thumb. take .75 degree per psi of boost.



I would like to take a look at that



Did you check it at 6000 Rpms Ive seen cars showing different timing numbers there do to bad distributors and hall effects.

K value is a base to where you need to be. Putting a mass air meter causes the tp to go up or down whichever size you go with.

TP is your load scale on the map. The only way you know what psi is your tp is by a boost pressure sensor. The nissan ecu does not know it has boost it just measure airflow across the maf sensor Then calculates with throttle position and rpm. Then it puts it where it needs to be in the map. Pretty simple.

Doesnt mean the car is not detonating. Timing maps should be dialed in on a dyno makes it much easier to see changing values.




Dont need it. There is plenty of tuning with what you have. Most factory turbo cars run maf sensors. There must be a reason.

If you map trace you should see when your car hits 10 psi where it sits on the map.

AEM EMS Base SR20DET Tune

Motor: SR20DET (8.5:1 CR)
Mods: Completely stock from air box to tail pipe. This means T25 turbo, stock cams, top mount intercooler, etc.
Octane: 91+ (R+M)/2 gasoline
Dyno WHP: Not sure.
Safe or Tuned Map: This map is un-tuned and designed to be safe to use as a base.



Notes: All I did was open up the base tune (calibration) provided by AEM for the common SR20DET engine, took a screen shot of the ignition table and posted it up. I didn't modify it in any way, and I don't make any claims to this map.

Admittedly no, we did not. There was no reason to question the health or operation of the CAS and ignition system.



Take a look at the base AEM SR20DET tune I posted above. Torque peak (5,500 rpm) at 170 kPa (10 psi) is 20 degrees and that includes wiggle room as it's meant as a safe map to use as a base for tuning. Bone stock DET setups that don't breath, so they don't get any air, so you wouldn't be dealing with aggressively retarded timing like you would with an engine that breathes.

I'll post up my timing map in a bit when I'm more confident in it. For now though I'll send it to you in a PM if you want. Not trying to hide it, just don't think it belongs in this thread yet. It might undergo some minor changes this spring. Maybe I'll post it up in my build thread for now...

Supercowboy, take a look at Enthalpy base map, mine is pretty much identical to it, except I smoothed it out and built on it a little bit. Now Enthalpy does mention that being a base map to build on. This could be based on RWD SR20DET. But I can't imagine RWD DET being too different from FWD DET.



That was a 100% street tuned, I was planning to hit the dyno on it, but ended up selling the car before that happened.

Having a MAF is nice, but MAP has the easier to tune advantage. The problem I have with MAF's is finding a good turbulent free location and finding a used MAF that still has a good idle voltage.



That's what I did, it's hard to get it right and accurate though. Especially while your driving

Man those timing figures are really high. You must has access to some high octane fuels.