Thread: P11 How to: Install SS Hydro Clutch Line, Bypass Damper, and Bleed the Clutch

How to: Install SS Hydro Clutch Line, Bypass Damper, and Bleed the Clutch on a P11.

SS Hydro Clutch Line


1. Locate the stock line


2. Locate the bleed valves on the Slave Cylinder and on the damper. Hook up a clear line and loosen them and have someone pump the line, this should clear out some fluid from the line/less spillage.


3. Loosen the flare nut, careful not to strip it (I kinda did)


4. Remove the hard line from the rubber line, you can remove the line holder and unbolt the rubber line from the Slave Cylinder.


5. Install the SS line, replace the old gaskets with new ones, hand tighten the line onto the Slave Cylinder. Hand tighten to avoid cross threading!


6. Since you only hand tightened the line, you should be able to move it around, stick the ss line not the old line holder and hand tighten the hard line's flare nut.


7. Afterward tighten with a tool and insert the line holder


8. While holding the hard line in place tighten the Slave Cylinder side with a wrench. If you don't hold it in place it will rotate.



Bypass Damper
1. Loosen up the clutch line from the Slave Cylinder


2. Loosen the flare nut on the hard line that connects to the SS line


3. Loosen the flare nut on the damper, remove the damper (there are two bolts that hold it to the side of the engine bay)



4. Connect the SS line to the hard line that goes to the Master Cylinder.


5. Tighten the SS line on the Slave Cylinder, make sure to hold it so that it doesn't spin.



Bleed the Clutch
Bleeding the clutch is a sun dance of it's own. I spent hours trying to get pressure to build up in the pedal with no avail. Not Closely following the FSM was my mistake.

First bleed the Damper then bleed the Slave Cylinder. Make sure to top off the reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid often.

1. Loosen the bleed valve, then tighten it slightly and put on a clear hose over it. This is so that you can loosen it and easier when you are actually bleeding the lines
2. Press the clutch pedal to the floor, it should stick there. Raise it, wait 3 seconds. Push it down, raise it, wait 3 seconds. Push it down and keep it down.
3. Open bleed valve, let air come out.
4. Raise the clutch pedal, and wait 5 seconds. This one is important, at this point the Master Cylinder will be sucking in the new fluid from the reservoir. Make sure to top it off often!
5. Repeat 2-4 about 10 times, the pedal should start becoming stiffer to press and wont stay down by itself. At this point you will need a friend. Continue the same process until all bubbles are out.
6. Tighten everything up, clean up and take it for a test drive.
   

Thanks goes to Keo for providing constructive criticism and making fun of me for doing the right thing . Keo = fail, FSM = FTW

vadim, i have a full 5spd swap for my p11, not installed yet.
my question is what are the benefits to deleting the damper?
since i didnt do the install yet, seems like a good idea to get a ss line in before hand, thanks for the awesome write up!

btw i got the upgraded rad and installed it, many nice flare in the engine bay now, thanks man your one of the best in my book!

Most hydro clutches don't run a damper, Nissan likes a mushy pedal feel, so they added the damper. Now removing it makes the pedal feel more springy and cable clutch wise but still much easier to press. It also makes the pedal be more like a cable clutch, while most hydro clutches are ON/OFF like with no inbetween play.



Np man, glad to help

May I ask why you would not remove the damper as well and just run stainless from the hydraulic clutch MC to the slave cylinder? It is one bleed point that way. I have done this on every hydraulic clutch install and conversion I have ever done.

Brent

Agreed on one bleeding point. Though I am curious to try it with the damper just to compare.

IDK I removed the damper on my 240 and the pedal is still softer than any of the cable B13/B14s I have driven. It's prolly not gonna last long for you Vadim :P

That's why I said it's still easier to press then cable :-P.

My clutch has been the same for about a year now, much easier to press then my B14, and now I have the heavier PP.

I have the dampener on mine with a ss hose instead of the rubber. And my clutch pedal feels great.