Thread: **Z32 Calipers in a B13**

k, I think that answers my quetions at the same time... sweet!

2 things:

its not as simple as redrilling hubs. the hubs are splined for the wheel studs to fit in... something i have a hard time seeing a machine shop duplicating. you could tap them for threads, if you wanted to go euro style.

and im not about to get a second set of wheels so i can run 2 different bold patterns. thats rediculous


2nd thing... you said you're using 26mm maxima rotors; so are you using the earlier 26mm N/A ZX calipers, too? i had planned on going with 30mm calipers, as they are much, much easier to come by, considering they only had the 26mm ones for a little over a year and a half, while the 30mm ones were made [still in aluminum] for about 3 years.

from the Nissan FAST parts catalog: [p/n for LF Caliper Ass'y; unloaded]
41011-30P00 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (N/A Aluminum 26mm)
41011-40P00 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (Twin Turbo Aluminum 30mm)
41011-40P00 Manufacture date 7/90 – 9/91 (TT and N/A Aluminum 30mm)
41011-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 4/92 (TT and N/A Aluminum 30mm)
41011-37P00 Manufacture date 4/92 – 8/92 (N/A Cast Iron 30mm)
41011-37P00 Manufacture date 7/92 – 9/93 (TT Cast Iron 30mm)
41011-37P00 Manufacture date 8/92 – 9/93 (N/A Cast Iron 30mm)
41011-37P01 Manufacture date 9/93 + (TT and N/A Cast Iron 30mm)




NEW QUESTION! can the B13 wheel bearing/hub assembly be pressed into the B15 knuckle?

You could measure the inside diameter of the bearing bore but Im willing to bet that they are different, plus hub seals would prob. be a bitch too.

As far as drilling the hubs go they dont have to be splined. Me and a friend did the ARP Mustang studs which require you to drill the holes bigger and if you use a press, the splines on the stud sort of cut their own splines.

Yah ive got the 26mm alum calipers. Actually they arent that hard to get ahold of and they are cheaper because no one really uses them. Also they are slightly smaller so its easier to fit them in our smaller wheels.
You can just redrill the hubs, as long as you dont drill them to big. Those splines are in the hub from when they pressfit the stud in them. Its just to keep them from spinning when you tighten the lug. The new holes just need to be a few thousandths smaller then the stud shoulder. It isnt really a big deal.

Also i dont think you can interchange the hubs. i havent checked yet, but i will on monday

We have discussed this here and believe that a welded on bracket will be the best choice. It will probably require knuckle cores. All we will do is remove the old tabs and wed on a new bracket, powder coat the knuckle and ship back. This requires no drilling, no new wheels, no thin 26mm rotors, etc... Next step is to find a rotor in the correct diameter, hat height and thickness (30mm) to work with this application.
Going to the yard tomorrow to pick up a knuckle.

Thanks for the pics DETSER

How much will that cost?
Make sure you get the SE-R knuckle. something is different about them. I cant remember what it is at the moment.
26mm isnt really a thin rotor compaired to the ones that came on these cars. The 26mm rotors dwarf our factory rotors. Plus you will have to compete aginst the 240sx guys getting the 30mm calipers, that cost more.
What 30mm rotor are you going to use?

I would use the 26 mm calipers, they are lighter, cheaper and easier to find. Plus more rotor options such as Corrodo, Prelude or altima. and if using the 30 mill. I heard you could use NSX early model rotors. They are 28mm in thickness.

corrado rotors are only 22mm thick
Im useing redrilled maxima rotors which actually 26mm thick.
Ive looked through the brembo catalog and couldnt find anything that was 26mm thick with a 4x100 pattern. Heres the link if anyone wants to look
Brembo - Aftermarket 2007

Yeah. The Fastbrakes 11" kit uses Corrado rotors.