Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: **Z32 Calipers in a B13**

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 21-30 of 214
2009-01-30 00:15:12
#21
Sweet. thanks
2009-01-30 03:01:57
#22
Originally Posted by L4t3ncy
it fits 15"s just fine i have it on my b12. will post pics up later. just need to run a spacer to clear my spokes

pics



Still doesnt look like that caliper fits on that rotor correctly. Look at the gap at the bottom as compared to the top.
2009-01-30 05:38:25
#23
that doesnt matter, the caliper is not perfectly round with the rotor. the pads appear that they would be completely touching the rotor with the entire pad and in the proper area. one side of the caliper is going to be closer to the rim than the other. It all depends on what angle the caliper sit.

Looks just fine and thats good to know about the 15 wheels being that is what i have. mine have a pretty good offset to them as well so mine might fit without a spacer but even if you had to use one so what, well worth it
2009-01-30 09:54:53
#24
for front you want b15 se/1st gen altima front spindle assembly (2nd gen might work but i cant verify this) also (might have to run g20t axles with teh bigger 36mm nut)

then you have the ability to run either stock b15/altima brakes 280x22mm 11" baby

j30/q45 twin piston 280x28mm i believe

300zx 280x30mm or 280x26mm

spec v brembos

04 maxima/altima 12.4 brakes with minor mods

also any big brake maxima/240 brake kits or w.e "mmm evo brembos "

(keep in mind with many of these conversions you might have to reduce the over all diameter of the rotor by a few mm and drill to 4x114.3)

now i know not every one favor universal wheels and would like the car to be even all around so in your case you can run 91-96 g20 rear hub assemble in your stock b13 rear spindle assembly


btw once you have done this conversion your steps away from a complete 5 lug conversion for the fronts youll need maxima hub presses right into the bearing the rear i believe you need 4th gen maxima rear hubs and possibly a spacer but the altima guys get away without it

only reason i havent done 5 lug on my g20 is because i love 15 inch wheels and good 15x8 5x114.3 wheels for cheap is hard to find and i cant find any temp 5x114.3 15" factory wheels to drive on temporarily that i like but if i wanted 17s id so go 5 lug


just trying to clear up any confusion
2009-01-30 23:50:33
#25
Ok so after looking at this I think I figured out my issue with them. Due to the fact that these hubs came off a car different from the Z which the calipers are meant to fit on, the mounting location is incorrect. Eventhough the mounting holes line up that doest mean that the location of how they mount to the knuckle is correct. Just looking at this I can tell that the bottom tab that the caliper mounts to us further out from the knuckle compared to the z and the pads will not seat completely on the rotor, and that is why it is pushed out further than the top.

I can see that this is an economical kit and if you are a jy junkie like me you can probably get all of this stuff in one day at the yard. But for the others I think a bracket that mounted to the factory knuckle bolts would have been a better investment. I mean a bracket like this would probably cost you $30-50 a side to have machined after you get the dimensions.

this is what we are going to do for the B14 chasis, a custom bracket to adapt a better caliper to a 11 in rotor (probably as big as you can go under a factory 15" wheel)
2009-01-31 00:31:54
#26
Originally Posted by bluebomber
Ok so after looking at this I think I figured out my issue with them. Due to the fact that these hubs came off a car different from the Z which the calipers are meant to fit on, the mounting location is incorrect. Eventhough the mounting holes line up that doest mean that the location of how they mount to the knuckle is correct. Just looking at this I can tell that the bottom tab that the caliper mounts to us further out from the knuckle compared to the z and the pads will not seat completely on the rotor, and that is why it is pushed out further than the top.

I can see that this is an economical kit and if you are a jy junkie like me you can probably get all of this stuff in one day at the yard. But for the others I think a bracket that mounted to the factory knuckle bolts would have been a better investment. I mean a bracket like this would probably cost you $30-50 a side to have machined after you get the dimensions.

this is what we are going to do for the B14 chasis, a custom bracket to adapt a better caliper to a 11 in rotor (probably as big as you can go under a factory 15" wheel)



we mill the rotors a few mm to to fix that problem you have to do the same for the j30/q45 conversion
2009-01-31 00:41:21
#27
Originally Posted by bluebomber
Still doesnt look like that caliper fits on that rotor correctly. Look at the gap at the bottom as compared to the top.


it will look like that the wheel isnt fastened. it is on properly aswell ill take some pics of where the pad comes into contact with the disc aswell the gap stay the same to the outside of the disc the whole way around.
2009-01-31 01:16:36
#28
Im sorry this doesnt make any sense ... so when I need new rotors I have to have them milled? What exactly are you milling? Are you reducing the thickness of the rotor or the overall diameter?

I dont understand why all this trouble? Why not just have some brackets made for the factory hub/knuckle setup? This seem like it is much more involved and probably about the same price in the end. Unless I am missing something here?
Dont mean to be rude but just perplexed by this?

I would have used the factory hub/knuckle setup, made a bracket to use the new calipers with the U13 rotors and called it a day. That seems to be all you need ... to have the caliper positioned correct on the rotor. It looks like you have plenty of room to run these on the 15" wheel dia you have and with a 2 piece caliper you can move it into the right position so that it sits in the middle of the rotor.
2009-01-31 03:11:21
#29
You need the noe hubs in front for the bolt pattern of the rotors. You need the new knuckles for the new hubs.

If you get the rotors drilled to the 4X100 bolt pattern, can you skip the hubs & knuckes? Then you wouldn't have to mess with the bolt pattern issue? Is anyone able to compare the two rotors?
2009-01-31 03:24:30
#30
Originally Posted by sr20detgtir92
You need the noe hubs in front for the bolt pattern of the rotors. You need the new knuckles for the new hubs.

If you get the rotors drilled to the 4X100 bolt pattern, can you skip the hubs & knuckes? Then you wouldn't have to mess with the bolt pattern issue? Is anyone able to compare the two rotors?


The reason for the new knuckles is for the brake calipers and the hub is for the rotor.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top