Thread: "How to" Rebuilt NX2K Calipers.

Hey guys I recently got my rebuild kit from Mr. Greg and now it's time to rebuilt the calipers. IMO it seems a bit self explanatory but I would much rather use a guide line or a "How to" instructions. Also this could be very useful for our information library.

So, if anyone can give me instructions on how to do this it would be appreciated.

if you have the rebuild kit, lay all the parts out. take apart one caliper slowely and lay the old pieces right next to the new ones. doing that ull see where everything goes and in what order (obviously youll reverse it when installing them).

its very easy.

stratton.

Well I'm not to worried about the hardware pieces. I would like to know what is there to do to remove the piston boot, rings, etc.

Is it front's your doing, the AD22VF's? I've done about 6 sets of these over the years...
First of all, clean the outside of the caliper with a wire brush to remove all the brake dust and dirt.
Pop the piston out of the caliper - i use a foot pump with a tapered nozzle fitting and some bluetack to create a seal between the taper and the fluid inlet port. Best to put a block of wood inside the claws of the caliper to stop the piston shooting out and becoming damaged as they're plated.
Once the piston is out, rip the piston outer dust boot out and remove the circlip that held it in if it didn't come out with the boot. It's just a metal ring if i remember right, and all you need is a screwdriver. You really need to clean this area up along with the very top inner edge of the caliper bore as this is where rust forms and binds the piston.
Once you've done this you'll see the inner seal sitting near the top of the bore, carefully remove this with some kind of fine pick.
Once all cleaned it should look like the pic below. Note that i wash the stripped calipers in the sink for a final clean to get all the rust and gunk out. With water contact like this though, it's imperative to immediately dry inside with kitchen towel and wipe clean brake fluid across the inside surfaces, fluid port and bleed nipple port before flash rust sets in :

I've only ever cleaned the pistons and the bores with clean brake fluid, kitchen towel and an old toothbrush as you don't want to scratch the plating on the pistons. Brake fluid will remove all but the most stubborn residues around the top of the piston.

When cleaning the bores on the torque member for the guide/slide pins, if i remember right it's an 8mm drill bit that can be turned through them to remove the rust.

On the rebuild, you've got me. It's been a while and i have a hunch that i might have found it easier to fit the top of the outer piston dust boot to the piston itself, and then push the piston in a little and secure the bottom of the dust boot to the caliper. Someone else will have to chip in here as it's been a couple of years since i did my last set. I do remember though that you need to be damn careful not to puncture that outer dust boot when you put the securing ring in, both with the ring itself and the screwdriver or pick that you use.
Also, make sure you lube the piston seal inside the bore. I can't remember if that's supposed to be the red grease....

And if you're talking about rear calipers...not fun (apologies for crappy pic quality):

This info is great -- should be moved to the "How To" section!

Found a few more pics from my archive of past work:

Rusty bore on caliper - this is what happens if the flash rust sets in after you've washed it in the sink - don't let it happen!


Nissan's Hardware Kit for the AD22VF's - if like me, your car never came with the pad shims as some mechanic in the past binned them along with the pads. In all honesty, my brakes didn't squeek before i fitted these and did afterward! so i removed them again.


Original Nissan AD22VF seal kit:


Original Nissan slide pins, bleed nipples and torque member bolts and washers:


Nissan FAST Schematic for the AD22VF:

Great..Great info.. It will move this to the "How To" section.

Now, I see that I got 3 packs of lube/Grease like in shows in your picture. Where do I apply the big pack and where do I apply the small pack.

If you have the rebuilt kit it should have come with a little instruction manual and it tells you where to put each type of grease. Hope you didn't lose it!

Glad it's of use.
Yup, should have a wee instruction sheet but even that isn't too clear.
From memory, red grease is for internal areas of the caliper that are exposed to brake fluid eg inner piston seal, and orange is the rubber friendly stuff which is smeared on the inside of the outer boot, and lubricates the slide pins and boots. I usually used just one pack of the orange grease and sent the spare one with the calipers when i sold to club members (not this one).
I remember the fun of air pockets when pushing the slide pins in to grease filled holes in the torque member, it's useful to have a pick to let the air out the side of the boots.

It's a real bugger that the rubberised metal cap for the bottom slide pin on each torque member isn't included and from what i remember they're not even a part you can order from Nissan.

Just to put some definite stuff down on the pins and their boots:

Narrower gold pins are the uppers and fit inside the long boots with corrugated ends.
Fatter black pins are the lowers and go through the stubby smooth boots.

Just need a final fact on the pad slider shims...i just fitted front pads a few weeks ago and i think i remember the asymmetrical shims ie the ones with a bit cut off going on the bottom of the torque member, with the cut off on the inside. Can anyone confirm that?

Does anyone know if rebuild kits for the rear calipers come with the e-brake seal? I recently pulled one apart because this seal was trashed and leaking, but I have not been able to find out whether or not any kits come with this for sure. Also, I couldn't remove it from the caliper, it seemed to be sealed in somehow (not clipped). Or maybe I am stupid and could not find the clip. Anyways if anyone knows this it would be good info to add to this thread.