Thread: Got rod knock? What oil were you using?

welp if its good enough for a 442hp sr then its good enough for my car lol

I was runing syn m1 5w30 for a while on my original turbo set up and on a 70 deg day at road america i would have almost no oil pressure after 1 30 min session on a mechanical autometer gauge. The engine was in good shape at the time and never burned any oil between changes. I was recently running valvoline syn 10w30 which is what i will be putting in as soon as i get the car up and running again. I will see what type of oil pressure i get with that,if its not good enough i will go with the vr1 race stuff or the rotella. I have spun bearings but it was my fault and not the oils, i didnt know one of the injectors wasnt sealing and was emtying all the pressure from the rail into the engine when you shut the car off. I think there was more gas in the bottom end than oil.LOL

On my maxima vq30de i used to run mobile 1 5w30 and that stuff seemed to work ok, but it seemed to be very thin when i changed it. I am now running regular non synthetic valvoline 5w30 which seems to hold up a bit better, it seems thicker and it looks and feels like there is more in the drain pan after a change, the m1 seemed to thin out to the point of only looking like 3 qts instead of 4.5. I have been running the valvoline now for around 40k. I did try some castrol 5w30 when it was on sale at autozone and with the vq i think that particualr oil is crap, it made noticeably more valve noise at exactly 3k, whereas i was a couple hundred miles over with my last valvoline change. The engine sounded better at 3,700 miles than the castrol at 3k.

I have been running valvoline 10w30 on the g20 for some time now and with over 200k on the clock the car doesnt burn a noticable amount of oil between changes. I dont beat on it that much.

On a side note my friend was using m1 on his evo 8 and switched to redline, and when we installed cams with a friend of ours that runs a shop he said the engine looked like crap on the inside. The car has around 30k on it and he said he has seen some with 130k that looked better. This is one of my friends cars and he keeps it up very well and changes his oil riligiously. The guy that owns the performance shop primarily tunes/ modifies eves and dsms so he has seen his fair share of engines with low and high miles.

so since ive had some bad luck with my SRs when it come to oil. what viscosity would you recommend. Ive used penzoil platinum 10w30 and spun a bearing in my DE, used M1 10w30 in my bluebird and got rod knock, and used M1 15w50 in my avenir and wore the rings down by the third oil change. Thats is three motors in one year. now im about to be on number four. from the looks of things castrol and rotella are the best. what viscosity should i use in my next DET??????

I'm using 10w30 Valvoline synthetic right now in the SE-R. Oil pressures seem to be greater with Valvoline than they were with Mobil 1. During warm idle, I still see between 25~35psi. Never had more than 20psi warm with Mobil 1 10w30. I would say that if you're running kinda hard but not tearing it up, I'd run a 10w40 during the colder months. My dad always ran 10w40 on his truck because it seemed to perform better in the cold. I may try the 10w40 and see how the car reacts.

i agree. What works well:

Rotella 10w30
AmsOIL 10w30
German Castrol 10w30

I noticed everyone is quick to blame the oil I would like to know what oil filters you were using along side of the selection of oil. If you don't mind. Reasearch reasons.

Do you think an oil filter has anything to do with oil thinning and starvation?

depends, bearings can spin from oil impurities as well.

I use 10w-30 synthetic in any brand along with lubeguard Engine protectant. I was driving my car a day and my bottom hose unknowing to me slip off. i drove the car for 20mins stop when i saw temp guage raised to the top and put about 1 gallon and Half of coolant in engine. My engine did not knock. Guys don't depend on just the brand of oil, find and additive to mix with your oil.