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Thread: Got Rod Knock at the convention? Post it here...

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Posts: 71-80 of 190
2009-03-31 01:52:55
#71
The guy above him ninja'd his post.
2009-03-31 02:31:44
#72
I had 10W40 in my car before it went boom at Roebling...
2009-03-31 04:19:17
#73
Originally Posted by TeKKiE
Careful. I-95 is the evil satan to the SR20 realm. Better find a priest to bless the car!

On a serious note, the 15w50 is a great idea for track day, which makes me feel even more confident that I should run it before long trips. 10w40 will be the minimum that I would run now, in the car as a daily. Maybe that will keep the oil from evaporating in the future.


10W40 conventional or synthetic??
2009-03-31 04:41:31
#74
Guys, its pretty common knowledge that when you do TRACK DAYS you MUST switch to a heavier oil. I run 0w50 when auto x season comes around. Im NA so I just stick to Eneos 0w20 for daily driving and NEVER take it to any track days with that oil in. The temps, Gs, RPMs and everything else on the track are much higher than regular daily driving or beating on it on the street.
2009-03-31 10:10:35
#75
Originally Posted by SE-R2FAST
10W40 conventional or synthetic??


I was using M1 10w30 synthetic. I've never seen a motor actually devour oil! NEVER. I've seen cars spew oil, or puff oil out the tailpipe, but never literally eat the oil and show no signs of where it went.
2009-03-31 11:47:42
#76
TeKKiE, how does your coolant look?
2009-03-31 11:51:28
#77
On a side note, I replaced all my intake hydraulic lash adjusters and the noise is still there. I took a better look at the oil this time and there is some copper. Not nearly as much as the last time I had rod knock but some. I took a video of the engine ticking and ran it at 17% speed to count the number of ticks per second. I have about 780 ticks per minute at 1,500 rpm. Could be a collapsed exhaust lifter or I guess a rod bearing only making noise during the power stroke. I checked cylinder 3 by removing spark to it at the track with no change. This time I'm going to check the other cylinders.

The jury is still out. We'll see.

Oh, did a compression test and got 180, 170, 180, 162. Not terrible but certainly not what I'd like to see. Cylinder #4 is slightly out of spec.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-08-21 at 14-16-30.
2009-03-31 11:53:35
#78
Originally Posted by BenFenner
TeKKiE, how does your coolant look?


Coolant looks just fine. No signs of headgasket issues, or other damage.
2009-03-31 13:25:24
#79
Originally Posted by BenFenner
On a side note, I replaced all my intake hydraulic lash adjusters and the noise is still there. I took a better look at the oil this time and there is some copper. Not nearly as much as the last time I had rod knock but some. I took a video of the engine ticking and ran it at 17% speed to count the number of ticks per second. I have about 780 ticks per minute at 1,500 rpm. Could be a collapsed exhaust lifter or I guess a rod bearing only making noise during the power stroke. I checked cylinder 3 by removing spark to it at the track with no change. This time I'm going to check the other cylinders.

The verdict is still out. We'll see.

Oh, did a compression test and got 180, 170, 180, 162. Not terrible but certainly not what I'd like to see. Cylinder #4 is slightly out of spec.


pull the plugs one at a time, the knocking especially if light should go away when you rev the motor up. If its still there its probably a lifter. Only thing to explain the low number 4 reading is possibly ring damage, That reading is not horribible but it definetly says something went wrong. What cylinder did you melt the tip on. I would guess that one being thats the one i melted the tip on when i had detonation, always seems to be number 3 or 4 for some reason. Rod knock for the most part is very easy to diagnose. Pull the plugs one at a time and it should go away, i have yet to have an instant that it doesnt even heavy knocking motors.
2009-03-31 14:05:01
#80
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
pull the plugs one at a time, the knocking especially if light should go away when you rev the motor up. If its still there its probably a lifter.
The sound is there at idle, during cruising and under load or no load. Very odd for rod knock but I'm still leaning towards that.

Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Only thing to explain the low number 4 reading is possibly ring damage,
Or a sticking valve, or an improper valve seat, or a head gasket issue.

Originally Posted by ashtonsser
What cylinder did you melt the tip on. I would guess that one being thats the one i melted the tip on when i had detonation,
Yes, the tip melted on cylinder 4 where the lower compression is.

Originally Posted by ashtonsser
always seems to be number 3 or 4 for some reason.
The cylinders run hotter as you get towards the transmission. The transmission keeps things hot and the coolant flows from cylinder 1 to 4.

Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Rod knock for the most part is very easy to diagnose. Pull the plugs one at a time and it should go away,
I know, I just haven't got around to doing that yet. I will.
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