Thread: New SE-L owner!

Hey guys,

Just picked up Hammerin Hank's 99 SE-L for a daily driver. Super clean, 83K on mileage, some poly bushings, bent rear beam, suspension goodies, VLSD tranny, and header. Basic stuff.

I received the car at night, so I do not have pics yet. I will post some cell phone shots ASAP (would say tomorrow, but we have snow projected for overnight) and give you guys the once over.at

So far, short term goals are coilovers, cams, and new tires for SE-L rims. VE swap (I might have a deal on a sr20ve head that makes the VE hed swap more appealing) will be the ultimate goal. I once had a b15 SE with a nitrous kit and some bolt ons many moons ago. OEM - plus type of build for this car. I will keep everyone posted on mine and the car's progress.

Anything else I should know about b14 SEs? I know they are susceptible to rust, but this one is pretty clean and CO is a salt free state. Have a G20 ECU in the meanwhile. I am looking at cams, but VE head swap seems like the better overall deal for HP per dollar ratio. I am going to buy a VE and build it OEM plus style (N1's, sr16ve pistons, valve springs, etc) but need it to get me through to summer. Hence the cams for now.

Thanks all. I am new to this forum in post count, but had a b15 in 2002, and have been a lurker/creeper on this forum, b15sentra, sr20laggy, and g20.net.


Geoff Barnes AKA Senrab AKA Me

Congrats on a nice buy, I've always liked Hank's car!

If you're seriously planning on doing the VE thing in the near future just skip the cams in the DE. People may tell you otherwise but even a bone stock VE is way more satisfying than an cammed NA DE (although having an unassuming 4dr 4cyl with a lopey idle is pretty cool). My 96 p10 was s4'd and tuned at the same time my 95 had a stock VE and I hated driving the DE in comparison.

I agree, if you are planning to go VE, don't bother with the modding the DE any further. Personally if I could do it again I'd go with a T28 setup on the DE because you hit a wall with the an N/A VE at around 210WHP unless you want to get into serious money with taking the engine apart.

Also, doesn't the G20 ECU in the 98-99's throw a MIL?

glad to hear it man. there are a few clean se-l's for sale sale in the colorado area. sounds like you got a good deal with yours. And yes Denver is a very good place to find rust free cars. If you are really interested in a ve motor and se-l's wheels you should pm me. let me know everything you are looking for, i already have most of the things you are looking form, and i am local.

Hank already converted the wire harness connector to use an early 95-97 ECU.

Congrats on the SE-L, I was also eying this car but having 2 cars already made it not an option.

How much did it cost you to ship it from PA to CO.

Thanks all for the kind words. Car is a solid base.

I hear you guys on the VE. I am not looking for crazy HP goals. Just something fun and easy to work on for a DD and maybe a couple autox events thrown in annually. I know a VE is the way to go, but I do not have the tools or space to do the swap myself. I cannot afford the full swap (based on my estimations) but I could easily afford cams in the meanwhile.

G20 EC will cause a CEL, I am aware. But if I have cams, I will need the extra RPMs.

Too bad it snowed today. I will get some pics up ASAP.

Oh yeah, shipping was approx $700. I had calculated $400-450 for the trip/gas to get back. My G/F paid the difference so I would not have to drive and deal with the snow storm. It was a painless process and was worth the extra money for lack of stress and time. Would do it again. Keep in mind price is with the holiday (Thanksgiving), and 2 snow storms. Price was higher than normal according to the shipping broker.

Thanks I have seen a couple vehicles from the west and just wanted to know what to expect to pay if I were to get one shipped.