Thread: Rich Running B13, easy fix or not worth buying?

Hey guys,

First post here and after searching this (and other) forums, I haven't been able to find what I'm looking for, but I'm hoping someone might have an idea.

According to the seller the car has no CEL but is running too rich to pass emissions tests here in Utah. He said he's been told it was due to a non-EGR JDM intake manifold, does this sound plausible? If so, would it require ditching the JDM intake for a USDM one? Is there another work around?

Here's the post details from the guy who sold it a couple years back;



To me it sounds like the non-EGR manifold shouldn't be an issue. Maybe the ECU was changed?

Aside from rust, door hinges, oilpan dents, leaky sunroof, and general automotive red flags, is there anything else I need to be on the look out for?

Thanks!

It's possible the cat is finally on the way out and replacing it will get you back to passing emissions. It's tough without the emissions sheet, and how much longer does Utah care about emissions on a 1993 vehicle?

Wheels are too wide.

Not sure what your goal is here? Just trying to get into a FWD SR20 for super cheap?

Goal is two-fold, first something I can work on with my son (16, who's getting it) and then have as my own after he moves on. Maybe I'll have the test done and get the emissions sheet, it's only like $40. I didn't think about the cat, but you're right, that's probably the culprit.

Utah sucks sometimes in regulations;

Alright so I went and drove it this weekend, first impressions and other info;

Wheels are now 15x8, still kinda wide
Tires are in good shape, but will probably get some steelies and winter tires too
80 mph with no vibration, pulls or rattles... j/k, it rattles like it's 27 years old
Power steering pump is likely going to need to be replaced
AC blows cold, but as soon as you turn it on, the belt starts squealing. Turning off the AC for 5-10 seconds then back on kills the squeal until you stop, then it squeals and is resolved the same way. Weird
I did manage to kill it once when slowing down from about 30 in 3rd by pushing in the clutch quickly but was able to pop start it right away then it sat and idled just fine for 15 minutes while I talked to the guy
Bumps and bruises all over, but nothing huge or affecting driveability or functioning of doors or anything. Worst part is the passenger side rocker panel

Minor rust here and there
Sunroof motor works, but the switch is broken. It opens, but won't close
Here's a shot of the bay, concerning wet spot under the dizzy? Wasn't coolant, likely oil, but where's it coming from? Anything else jump out?

Current owner has replaced the rack and pinion and driver side axle

He also provided me with his most recent emissions attempt report;


Let me know if there's any other info you'd like.
Thanks

THe wet spot is oil coming out of the cylinder head through the camshaft oil seal, then leaking further through other seals in the distributor. It would cost less than $100 worth of OEM parts to replace the cap, rotor, cap seal, and camshaft seal. The work is easy to do. +1 for nismo radiator cap. No clue why it runs rich. States have different parameters.

Kyle's right about the oil leak.

So it's failing for high hydro-carbons during idle mainly (but also high carbon-monoxide), and then also slightly elevated hydro-carbons at 2,400 RPM.

You're right, it's probably running rich, which explains the elevated hydro-carbons. A cat isn't going to help with much with that, sorry...
I'd just replace the MAF at this point, and check for vacuum leaks. Maybe look into new injectors as well. These things are so old now, it's likely going to need it if it doesn't look new already.

I'd also change the spark plugs. They could be the cause of the unburnt fuel...

I wouldn't worry about the missing EGR too much. I believe you can get it to pass without it, just needs some cash and TLC.

By the way, there have to better SE-Rs available somewhere around you. This thing is pretty beat. But I guess the price reflects that? I think over $750 is too much for this thing.

That's encouraging about the emissions, I just didn't want to get myself into something that was going to take a ton of time/money to get on the road.

Asking price is $700, I'm limited by what my son has saved up for a car and this is by far the best car in our area he can afford. We're going to use it for him to learn some basic wrenching but also not have to drive a corolla or a hyundai.

Thanks for your help, I'll be searching around and posting some questions as they come up.

Look up how much you have to spend before you can get an emissions waiver for the year. I think if you spend $500 or something trying to fix the problem, but the emissions still fail, you're given a pass for the year?
Something like that... Might be worth looking into, since you might hit that limit trying to fix it.

Thanks for your help Kyle and Ben. So if I'm replacing the dizzy bits, MAF, injectors and plugs, is there anything else I should be aiming at for the emissions after replacing parts and checking for vacuum leaks?

I'm looking on our DMV's site to see if they have a waiver, that's a really good idea.

Eventually you might have to figure out how to get an actual OEM catalytic converter on there. But really it depends on the failure. High hydro-carbons means raw fuel is getting into the exhaust. That's a fueling issue, which is going to be MAF and/or injectors and/or spark plugs. Then get the car tested again. Take it one step at a time and you'll nail it down.
I know the tests costs money... Do the best you can.