Thread: B13 hydraulic clutch conversion "how to" thread?

I have a 92 B13 and I used a 95 Maxima pedal and master cylinder - BUT- I removed the Maxima reservoir and installed the B15 remote mount reservoir instead.

It's a simple swap. just tap out the pin that hold the Maxima reservoir in place with a thin punch, snap the B15 remote fitting in place and push the pin back through. I'm not the first one to do this but the information is buried in other threads.

This is the best way to install a master cylinder on a B13. You're not re-drilling holes like you have to with a b15 master cylinder or fighting for clearance like with a direct mount reservoir.

The Maxima pedal does sit one inch further from the floor (higher) than the B13. I'm used to it but it still looks funky.

I tried to determine pedal height difference by taking a piece of plywood and bolting down a 95 Maxima pedal, a 97 Altima pedal and a 92 Sentra pedal. The Sentra pedal was 9 inches from the board to the pedal and the Maxima and Altima were both 10 inches from board to pedal.

I'd like to see how an Altima looks pedal installed. I'm not sure I'd switch because the Maxima pedal has heavier return springs and a sturdier bracket. I've pulled several Altima pedals in the junk yard that have had cracks in the bracket but I've never seen that problem with a Maxima pedal.

I could have kept things simple and went with a stainless braided line but I wanted to use Nissan parts.

I have a hard line that runs from the master cylinder to a 97 Altima brass distribution block attached to a bracket on the lower part of the the shock tower. Another hard line goes from the distribution block to a 91 Maxima bracket that holds the the hardline to rubber slave cylinder hose connection. I installed the 97 Altima brass air bleed valve to the upper part of the shock tower using the air bleed bracket from the 95 Maxima. All the hard lines are very short and out of the way. I didn't have to drill any holes in the body, everything is attached to factory brackets or holes.

It sounds complicated but it's actually clean and uses Nissan parts to imitates the factory hydraulic clutch set up.

:ttiwop:

Am I the only one who has never had an issue with a B13 clutch cable?

It wasn't mean't to be a "how to". When I got fifth gear pop out over a year ago I began collecting different hydraulic parts from the junk yard and started testing fitment. A lot was installed even before I found a P11 transmission so I never took any pics. Now I wish I had.

I never had a problem with mine... but I couldnt keep it when I went RS6

Not to resurrect and old thread but I've been trying to find out some info on this too. After reading the posts from @NI SER-1 and @ashtonsser, its a lot clearer now. My only problem is that I can't seem to find anyone that is selling the combo. I have a P11 tranny so I used the clutch pedal and master cylinder from an RNN14 GTi-R Pulsar. Lines are not a problem because I'm making my own braided line however the angle for the outlet on the RNN14 master pushes it right against the brake booster. From the pics below you can see the 90* fitting hitting against the brake booster.

looks like you have a ton of thread left that can be lopped off to get better fitment.

Doesn't thread flush into the port; the fitting is tapered @zeneffect.

Those types of components use the below fittings but I didn't have clearance which is why I bought the 90*. I know if it doesn't fit flush its going to leak so I need a M/C that allows me to use the proper fitting.

I'd weigh the difference in cost between a different mc vs machining costs. Looks like you are on track to building a sweet ride though, best of luck to you whichever way you decide to tackle this project.

I don't want to damage the restrictor inside of the M/C if I machine it. I'm very meticulous and would prefer doing things the right way with the least amount of hassle.

Thanks @zeneffect . I've really put a lot of time and effort into building this just the way I want.