Thread: Ignition Switch Cuts Out

mines doing the same!! Does anyone have a picture of were the relay is in the car? My relay box is all faided away so I cant see which one. Thanks.

What relay? There is no relay.

There is a relay. Both auto, and manual. The auto is called "Inhibit Clutch" (6 pin brown relay. The cruise control kill switch runs through it since the manual has its own kill switch on the clutch pedal), and manual is called "Clutch Interlock" (4 pin brown relay). The reason I know of this is because I recently rewired this system trying to get my cruise working again.

I know im bumping an old thread and im continuing to search, But what did you guys replace in your ignition?

Im having a similar problem.... I would push the clutch in and nada so I "assumed" it was the clutch inhibitor switch. Made a little jumper and still nothing tried it again and it worked without the clutch being depressed..

So I know its bypassed now, But I still get the problem with it not starting... Sometimes its fine other times I can turn the key 20 times and nothing then I have to sit twitting my thumbs.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated as I continue to search..

I'm having the same problem. I've been told the final contact on the ignition cylinder gets worn down and no longer contacts reliably. I haven't taken mine apart yet to look at it, but I assume it's an easy fix and all should be obvious once the mechanism is exposed.

There is still a relay involved with the clutch inhibitor switch, possibly that has gone bad, it'll be on the relay box near the battery. I bypassed that relay so now it really is just the ignition swith that trips the starter, no more clutch pedal either. Much better IMO to do it this way, less headaches and don't have to crawl under dash etc. If not, and you can pull your key out of the lock cylinder... more than likely your actual ignition switch on the outside of the lock cylinder is worn out. It's easy to replace or remove for testing though. Hope that helps.