Thread: What Did You Do To Your B13 Today?

I agree. And sure enough I have a set of B14 wheels on mine. They need to sell, like yesterday.

FINALLY got around to swapping out the cluster bulbs, have been putting it off for months. Before they had a kind of weird yellowish color that I didn't like, but I got used to it.. here's what it looked like before:


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[img] http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/Storm88000/Storm88000196/26cd635d-bd55-4435-9945-b9dd1fe755c5_zps64b4e094.jpg[/img]
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And here's after:
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These particular shots really show the color change (it's not as prominent on the tach I suppose because there are less indicator marks than the speedometer):
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Here's what they are; since there are 3 main bulbs that light up the cluster, if you want to achieve that color fade like I did, simply get 2 bulbs of your color choice, 1 on the left and 1 on the right and 1 super bright one directly in the middle. In my case I used 2 blue bulbs on the left/right and 1 Sylvania 194 superbright in the center. It looks so much better now. One thing though if you use too much of one color and not a white in the center you may lose the redline a bit in the 91-92's clusters.

That looks great! How difficult is it to take the cluster apart to get to the bulbs? The ones on my '91 are out entirely.

A few screws, unplug the connectors, and you are there. Mind the speedometer cable so you do not break it on 91-92 clusters.

Thanks man. It's not all that difficult except the speedometer cable. There's like 10 Phillips head screws you loosen and you need to remove all the plastic trim pieces, including the plastic around the shifter assembly, the radio, and around the gauges, unhook all the wiring harnesses (hazards, defroster, power mirrors etc) to get it out of the way. Also you may want to unhook the negative cable on the battery too to prevent any kind of fuses popping (has happened before) but just remember to hook it back up to check how the bulbs work when you're done.

If you don't have airbags or cruise control, I suggest removing the steering wheel. It's very easy. The cover pops off, disconnect the wiring harness for the horn, and then use your spare tire wrench to take the nut off the center, then the wheel will pop off after you give it some nudging. This makes things much easier because the wheel gets in the way. DO NOT do this if you have an airbag in there. The hardest part like Kyle said it is unhooking the speedometer cable. After that, there are 4 harnesses on the back of the cluster, with 3 main bulbs (size 194) and you twist the housing and they pull free. You can put any color you want in there as long as they are 194's. At first I had all 3 of them blue but noticed that you couldn't see the redline on the tach as well so I put a super white in the center, a Sylvania 194LL superbright. They aren't cheap, about $10 for 2, the regular ones are like $3.99. Also while you have it all apart, you can clean stuff you normally won't have access to, and check out the other bulbs, there's like 8 of them but they are small (door ajar, seatbelt, MIL, oil, battery etc.) and make sure those are all good.

Edit: I forgot, to test out the new bulbs before re-assembling you have to have the dimmer switch connected or they won't come on.

Edit again: you don't HAVE TO unhook the speedo cable, its possible to change the 3 main bulbs by feeling around back there, but space is reallyyyy right and you cant see what your doing.

Took off the ghetto cut springs and installed STOCK springs. For that OEM 4x4 look.

Replaced my broken washer fluid pump & put some air in the tires.

If you bought them opposed to already having them on-hand, where did you source your OEM springs? I refreshed my car's suspension with OEM-spec struts, but with the same rusty old springs. I'd love to get some new ones!

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Yay! Another solid polyurethane motor mount installed - one more "difficult" one (need to drop the crossmember) and one easy one and the car will be ready for a lot more abuse. These mounts are much better than the notoriously weak stock mounts, completely eliminating engine / transaxle movement and wheel-hop, and helping prevent transaxle damage. A lot of effort, but worth it!

Before:



After:



Getting there:



The goal:

Tightened clutch cable a bit today, RPMs dropping slightly when fully released before. Re-wired AEM uego with no luck solving an odd issue, post going up in turbo section...