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Thread: What Did You Do To Your B13 Today?

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Posts: 4,311-4,320 of 4,489
2016-11-08 20:26:16
#4311
Originally Posted by hawaiiaNX
Installed B13 folding rear seat back into my SE-R.


My 2-door LE has the exact same interior as a SE-R with no folding seat back. Seems as if only the 4 doors got them.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2016-11-23 at 12-54-09. Reason: Trim quoted post to remove huge image dump.
2016-11-08 21:22:53
#4312
Originally Posted by NissanEgg
Originally Posted by hawaiiaNX
Installed B13 folding rear seat back into my SE-R.


My 2-door LE has the exact same interior as a SE-R with no folding seat back. Seems as if only the 4 doors got them.


Aww damn, well there goes that idea...

Plan B: Pull the seats back out, prep, and spray the entire rear some sort of black.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
Last edited by BenFenner on 2016-11-23 at 12-54-33. Reason: Trim quoted post to remove huge image dump.
2016-11-08 21:41:40
#4313
Originally Posted by hawaiiaNX
Originally Posted by NissanEgg
Originally Posted by hawaiiaNX
Installed B13 folding rear seat back into my SE-R.


My 2-door LE has the exact same interior as a SE-R with no folding seat back. Seems as if only the 4 doors got them.


Aww damn, well there goes that idea...

Plan B: Pull the seats back out, prep, and spray the entire rear some sort of black.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX


Pretty sure you can use the interior plastics from the 4 door. I have b14 rear seats in my b13 and they fit much tighter up against the sides. I just got some black cloth and some spray glue to cover up the spot where the wheel well shows. The b14 seat sits abit higher though, looks abit weird from the rear window looking in.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2016-11-23 at 12-55-06. Reason: Trim quoted post to remove huge image dump.
2016-11-08 22:29:50
#4314
Originally Posted by DaveM
Originally Posted by hawaiiaNX
Originally Posted by NissanEgg


My 2-door LE has the exact same interior as a SE-R with no folding seat back. Seems as if only the 4 doors got them.


Aww damn, well there goes that idea...

Plan B: Pull the seats back out, prep, and spray the entire rear some sort of black.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX


Pretty sure you can use the interior plastics from the 4 door. I have b14 rear seats in my b13 and they fit much tighter up against the sides. I just got some black cloth and some spray glue to cover up the spot where the wheel well shows. The b14 seat sits abit higher though, looks abit weird from the rear window looking in.


I did try and trim the 4-door plastic trims initially, but gave up and just installed the seats without them. Maybe i'll go and pull them out of the trash and give them one more shot. We'll see.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
2016-11-19 01:14:21
#4315
Took it apart and notched the trans


2016-11-22 09:33:10
#4316
Removed the GSpec crank pulley/spacer/belts and replaced with OEM units.

Getting the SE-R ready for sale. All I have left to do is pull the Action Clutch that I just installed and re-install the old ACT PP with brand new sprung disc, then replace the rear struts, then find a replacement hood so I can have it painted with the other fender that I just got.

Branden
Aka hawaiiaNX
2016-11-23 13:01:47
#4317
2016-12-22 Edit: I've prototyped the design below in plastic with a 3D printer and it needed significant changes. The hole dimensions were perfect, but the dog bone shape needed work to clear parts of the calipers I did not account for. I will post the newer design eventually. If you're going to reproduce these, wait for that post.

I designed replacement caliper adapters that I've been meaning to do for 10 years.

Mine are aluminum and the threads always strip. I'm on my second set of adapters and they stripped a while back. I've spent years and years avoiding removing the bolts due to fear of stripping. Part of my problem is that my adapters are only 9mm thick on the knuckle side (for 3mm more caliper clearance than the normal Fastbrake kits) so I have even less thread than anyone else. The application also calls for red Loctite which makes stripping more likely upon removal. It's really the perfect storm of aluminum threads, not enough depth of threads or engagement, and red loctite.
Not only that, but my second set of adapters weren't actually made right, and they place the caliper just a hair too far out from the rotor so all of the pad material does not contact the rotor. Maybe 1mm or so overhangs the edge of the rotor. =/

I wanted to do steel adapters, but that's too expensive. I wanted to do aluminum with steel threaded inserts but no one seems to make the style of insert I imagined. So I'm taking advantage of flange nuts to act as the thread inserts. Seems like it should work great and be serviceable if threads ever get damaged (which they shouldn't).

Titanium flange nuts are affordable (some motorcycle uses the M10 x 1.25 size I want), so I plan to use them, but stainless steel would be a great option as well.
I'm waiting on the nuts to arrive to finalize the dimensions.

For anyone who wants to do the same, the center-to-center distance for the holes in the steering knuckle is 130mm and the center-to-center distance for the mounting holes in the Wilwood Dynalite caliper is 5.25" (or 133.35mm). The adapter should place these two sets of holes ~33mm apart from each other to work with the VW Corrado brake rotor (or whatever rotor it is that Fastbrakes sourced). The adapter should be 12mm thick, unless you have an odd-ball setup from Fastbrakes like me.
Oh, and the bolts are M10 x 1.25 but you can use M10 with whatever thread pitch you want if you're making your own threaded brackets or supplying your own nuts.









Last edited by BenFenner on 2016-12-23 at 17-39-27.
2016-11-28 21:03:03
#4318
Changed out my clutch over the weekend.


Reusing my pressure plate, as it still looked good (just dirty) but installing a brand new disc and resurfaced OEM flywheel. Yes, I know this is a downgrade from the 2KS kit I just put in, but the SE-R doesn't NEED the 2KS. Only pushing maaaaaaybe 200wtq, so I'll save the 2KS for my NX since I'll be selling the SE-R soon anyway.


Also replacing the rear main seal since i'm in there.



Flywheel on.



Clutch on.



And all back together!


Definitely needs a wash and polish. Been sitting out in the elements for quite a while.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
Last edited by hawaiiaNX on 2016-12-01 at 21-13-52.
2016-11-29 22:15:32
#4319
Pulled the VC....

2016-12-01 08:28:45
#4320
Originally Posted by Chris101
yes thanks! It seems to be a never ending battle on clutch springs so I keep hoping to find one where the springs don't pop out.. I'll be curious to hear how this replacement holds up for you (honestly never heard of it before)


All of the current versions have the springs enclosed on both sides
Last edited by KLUTCH on 2016-12-01 at 08-30-26.
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