Thread: Axle replacement?

Y0.

I have a bad CV boot on the passenger side and I bought an axle. I usually work on RWD Nissans, so I need a little help here.

It looks like all I will need is the usual socket wrench, sockets, breaker bar, pry bar and a torque wrench. Maybe a tie rod end remover as well.

Is that it? Or am I missing something? Do I need to buy another seal for the transaxle and should I worry about fluid leaking out when I am in the middle of getting the new one in?

I don't take the tie rod end loose when doing them. IIRC they axle bolt is a 32mm, maybe a 36, I don't remember. I just undo the axle bolt, the brake caliper, and the strut bolts. Then I take out the 3 bolts holding the bearing to the block. And yes, replace the axle seal weather you think you need it or not.

This is the easiest way to do it IMO. It avoids a lot of extra work and tools.


Loosen the passenger-side wheel lug nuts.

Jack up the entire front of the car (important to make sure the sway bar is unloaded) and remove the passenger-side wheel.

Drain the transmission fluid and save it for later.

Remove the cotter pin and castle retainer for the axle nut.

Have someone hold the brake pedal hard while you break the axle nut free with a breaker bar and cheater pipe. The axle nut is 32mm.
(If you don't have someone else to help, you'll need to put the wheel back on, put the car back on the ground, pull the e-brake or chaulk the tires and then break the axle nut free that way.)

Leave the axle nut on the end of the halfshaft (to protect the threads) and push or hammer on the shaft end/nut to loosen the splines from the hub.

Remove the axle nut from the end of the halfshaft.

Remove the two bolts holding the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle. These are 17mm bolts and nuts.

Remove the retainer clip that holds the hydraulic brake line to the strut.

You should now be able to move the steering knuckle down and to one side (still attached to the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end) enough to remove the halfshaft from the hub. Don't be scared to really lean on that knuckle to get the shaft free. Put the axle nut and washer next to the cotter pin and castle nut retainer for re-assembly later. (You might want to have a new cotter pin on hand, or in a pinch can use a metal coat hanger.)

Now you can remove the three bolts holding the halfshaft to the block support. These are 12mm bolts.

Now you can remove the halfshaft from the transaxle. Be careful to not harm the axle seal when removing. (You did drain the fluid right? If not expect a deluge of fluid now.)
(If the passenger side shaft won't come out easily it is likely seized by rust to the carrier support bracket bolted to the engine block. You'll need to brake this loose using giant channel lock pliers or some other method maybe by hammering strategically on one of the bolt hole ears to get the thing to spin.)

At this point you can replace the seal if you'd like, or if you think it is in good condition you can re-use it.

Assembly is reverse of removal.

Don't forget to fill the transaxle back with the fluid. If you don't have Redline Synthetic MT-90 fluid in there I highly recommend it.


(If you want to avoid completely draining and filling the transaxle I've heard jacking up the passenger side very high before removing the halfshaft will prevent all or most of the fluid from draining out. Be prepaired for some to spill though, and remember to put it back.)

Thanks a whole lot.

And the hub/axle nut measurement was spot on, will be completing this later in the week, will post results.

By the way, how do you tell what transmission you have?

What do you mean what type? LSD versus non-LSD, or something more specific?

No, they ask for what transmission you have when you get a new seal.

It's a long code with numbers and letters.

Greg Vogel at Gspec (G Spec Performance) doesn't ask those stupid questions.

There should only be two axle seal options. One for LSD and one for Non LSD. The Non LSD should have the same seal for both sides while the LSD has a small seal 2-3" diameter for the pass side axle and a large seal 4-5" diameter for the driver side.

Well good for whoever that is. What is your deal? First you help then you insult me? Get lost...



Well, no parts store I look at seems to have "axle seals". All I can find is transmission seals, which ask you what transaxle you have, and differential seals, which are described as "rear" (whatever the heck that means), and ask you what type differential you have (R200V, etc).