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Thread: Any interest? Blox Parallel links...

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Posts: 61-70 of 220
2010-03-10 14:21:05
#61
Originally Posted by Viperoni
I've just ordered everything I need except for the tubing.
Unfortunately some parts are coming from the UK, so it'll be a bit before they get here.

Doing a bit of research now on tubing and strength requirements. 99% sure I'm going to go with 4130 chromoly, but I'll take a look around for 4140.


Let us know what you come up with. Especially incase the blox company craps out
2010-03-10 15:33:54
#62
Originally Posted by Viperoni
I've just ordered everything I need except for the tubing.
Unfortunately some parts are coming from the UK, so it'll be a bit before they get here.

Doing a bit of research now on tubing and strength requirements. 99% sure I'm going to go with 4130 chromoly, but I'll take a look around for 4140.



What size tubing are you going with? What outer diameter and inner wall thickness did you choose? 4130 or 4140 are good choices and easily found.
Im curious why you needed to source parts from the UK. Just a bit of a suprise you couldnt findwhat you need here.
2010-03-10 16:31:44
#63
if this should fit the nx, you might wanna advertise in the group buy section with photos because nx people might not look in the se-r section.

I'm still a bit fuzzy as to why this would help *edit* just saw the price. is that rougly $100 for a pair?
2010-03-10 16:46:46
#64
Originally Posted by canx2k
iI'm still a bit fuzzy as to why this would help
Weight savings are possible but not much if anything. Strength gain is likely but unnecessary as the stock units, while flimsy, are strong enough.
The real performance gains come from two things. The spherical joints which will eliminate the innate bind of the rear suspension and the spring rate add of the factory bushings. And the adjustable length of the rods which will allow one to adjust camber and toe independently, and to a larger amount than factory (particularly camber).

Although I believe the initial idea was for the bling factor.
2010-03-10 18:30:59
#65
I would be interested in the functional units if and when they become available.
2010-03-11 04:00:22
#66
Originally Posted by SoloSol
What size tubing are you going with? What outer diameter and inner wall thickness did you choose? 4130 or 4140 are good choices and easily found.
Im curious why you needed to source parts from the UK. Just a bit of a suprise you couldnt findwhat you need here.


I haven't picked the tubing yet, but it will be 1" OD and the appropriate size ID, which will be to fit the metric rod inserts for the rod ends.
Those are what I ended up getting from the UK, along with rod end boots, which ended up being a tad cheaper from the UK as well.

If I build any more, I might just buy the appropriate size tubing and just tap it for the rod ends as opposed to going with the inserts. The tube would be smaller and they'd get done quicker and cheaper too. I'm pretty sure the chromoly would hold up to the load (IE: insert not required).

The rod ends are definetely coming from the US though.
2010-03-11 04:48:05
#67
This is what I was thinking if I were to piece my own together.

All parts were found at The Chassis Shop

I take no responsibility if you decide to do this.



Tube-


4130 chromoly 1/1.25 .120 wall
pn. 41-114-120 $.64 per in. You will need about 48 inches. Each arm is just under 12in total length.


Tube adapters-

1/.25 x.120 RH tube adapter.
Pn. c73-946-2 $16.20 ea you need 4

1.25x.120 LH Hex tube adapter
pn. c79-947-h2 $18.60 ea you need 4


Jam nuts

3/4x16 RH jam nut
pn. c73-046 you need 4 @ $9.95 a pack of 4

3/4x16 LH jam nut
PN. c73-065 you need 4 @ $9.95 a pack of 4

ROD ends

3/4x16 RH
pn CB12 $18.90 ea you need 4

3/4x16 LH
pn. CB14 $18.90 ea you need 4

Safety washer
No pn. 8pk@ $6.

I figure it around $400 Plus shipping.
2010-03-11 05:00:16
#68
You picked 3/4" as your rod ends, but that's not what I measured from new bolts I bought for the lateral links. There's also no misalignment bushing I could find that would adapt from the bolt size to any imperial size, which would have made life a lot easier!

I agree on the strength of the rod end, the ones I picked are good for over 15k lbs a piece.
2010-03-11 05:08:30
#69
Originally Posted by Viperoni
If I build any more, I might just buy the appropriate size tubing and just tap it for the rod ends as opposed to going with the inserts. The tube would be smaller and they'd get done quicker and cheaper too. I'm pretty sure the chromoly would hold up to the load (IE: insert not required).

The rod ends are definetely coming from the US though.



You could get threadable DOM tubing. Its probably fine for everyday use. But then why use rod ends on a daily driven car?
Those that really want these are going to be tracking/autox their cars. I would want the extra strength with the adapters.

If I am wrong please learn me. I am still doing my own research here.
2010-03-11 05:13:38
#70
Originally Posted by Viperoni
You picked 3/4" as your rod ends, but that's not what I measured from new bolts I bought for the lateral links. There's also no misalignment bushing I could find that would adapt from the bolt size to any imperial size, which would have made life a lot easier!

I agree on the strength of the rod end, the ones I picked are good for over 15k lbs a piece.


What size are the bolts? I didnt think of that. But bet if you had to open up the holes on the car that wouldnt be too difficult.

I edited my pick and therefore my pricing on the rod ends. I think I might have been a touch overkill there.
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