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Thread: my classic's first dyno (now with pic of graph)

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Posts: 21-29 of 29
2009-07-02 17:22:29
#21
Is the car in perfect running order? New fuel filter, good pump, working regulator, and clean maf,etc.?

Maybe just an safc, or adjustable fpr? Or tune with a calum basic.
2009-07-03 11:05:45
#22
Originally Posted by autoxse-r
looking for some extra input... I was thinking of getting some 333cc injectors would that help any with the problem I am having being lean?


You need to use a wide band O2 sensor to confirm what your AFRs really are. Then, if you have issues, make sure that your fuel pressure is within specs and that your fuel filter is in good shape.

Then you can start tuning your AFR. The easiest and cheapest way is to change your AFR with an AFPR. Tune it to 13 at WOT, but know that changing fuel pressure will change your AFR under all driving conditions. This is not usually a problem because so much of the fuel map is closed loop.

Tuning AFR with a Calum ECU would be your next "level of difficulty" approach. This allows you to fine tune AFR across the fuel map.

You don't want to making changes without a good wide band to check what you are doing.
2009-07-03 12:34:07
#23
thanks for the input the injectors were cheep and thought it may work but I'll save my money.
2009-07-03 16:02:39
#24
Originally Posted by autoxse-r
some cheep 15x7.5 wheels and 205/45/15 either toyo ra-1 or hoosier which ever I find used at the time I like to race on a budget


Hmm, I was wondering the other day if there are any 205/45/15 street tires. I know you are running r-comps, but I'm just thinking out loud.
2009-07-26 22:45:35
#25
Originally Posted by autoxse-r
I already am I haven't had the best competition but in the first two races I beat my competition by close to 10 seconds and at the last event I was 13th overall out of 92 cars so very pleased with the car and for any of you auto-xers out there I removed the front swaybar completely and it helped tremendously


Add a lower stress bar and you will see the real difference.


Originally Posted by autoxse-r
they used a sniffer in the pipe so it is possible but with my air fuel gauge in the car it reads lean most of the time as well so I am a hesitant thinking it is way off.


Have you considered an exhaust leak for the lean reading?
2009-07-26 23:32:21
#26
^ what is lower stress bar? You think no front sway bar and better rear sway bar make big difference over stock?
2009-07-26 23:52:49
#27
To answer your question. I dont thing it is better. I firmly believe in using a front sway bar. On the other had there are guys that like the excessive body roll and do well. So I would say driver preference.
See this tread.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/20822-oem-lca-brace-feeler.html
2009-07-28 04:49:51
#28
I do like the feel of the car without the bar at all and it felt very stable on the road course at Rockingham NC.

still haven't had time to look into the leaning issues but I can say that I have a new fuel filter no exhaust leaks and have cleaned the maf. I think I will try and find a nismo afpr and then try and tune from there just have to get some free time to get into it as well as find the regulator.
2009-07-28 04:57:15
#29
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Wheel Horsepower and Flywheel Horsepower.

Ditto.

FWHP
I thought it was Front Wheel HP
RWHP
Rear Wheel HP.
or am i confused?
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