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Thread: New '91 Classic Owner - new to Japanese, low on funds, in need of advice

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Posts: 41-50 of 103
2009-05-08 02:01:27
#41
Originally Posted by arcangel187
Having driven beaters all my life, I'm familiar with the affair. It seems it may not be as bad as could be. At least it's not a beemer. My buddy bought a 2003 330ci, and already he's blown over $350 just tuning it up. Poor bastard.

I'll be looking into getting dum dum ASAP. Thanks for the tip. I looked back there and there's nothing between the plastic and the metal at all.


Hey watch it buddy...I have a full garage of BMWs here. Your buddy probably let those bastards at the dealer anal rape him. Parts along should be around 150 max even for that old car.

Just silicone around the black part of the tail lights. Don't worry about taking it off, you will be changing the light bulbs from the inside anyway. The water goes down on top of the tail lights, it will leak if you dont disperse away.


BTW LucinoSR20 Aaron needs some help, I think he is in FW, closer to you...we need to drop by give this guy a hand.
2009-05-08 02:20:18
#42
Originally Posted by arcangel187
Is there a writeup on it somewhere? Free and designed by Nissan already sounds better than aftermarket.
The Pace setter short shifter is the best of the best. Terrific product, no need to knock it.

The Nissan shift lever is basically a metal lever with a plastic ball at the fulcrum. If you brace the ball on something (a vise works) and hammer down on the top of the shift lever it will move the ball up on the shaft. There are notches I believe that you will want to move the ball up to. Move it up one notch I think. Everything else is cake.

You'll need to remove the catalytic converter heat shield from below to get at the bolt underneath. Then everything else is removed from above inside the cabin. Remove the center console with shift boot attached by sliding it forward and releasing the sprung tangs at the back of the center console first, then sliding it backwards to remove the plastic tabs. Super simple once you do it once.

Then you'll see the shift lever mounting situation and it's all self explanitory from there.



Originally Posted by arcangel187
I'm throwing a CEL for it (11, I think). I know next to nothing about this either. I did just find an electronic FSM I'll be reading through soon to learn as much as I can.
Oh right, the crank angle sensor. I thought you mean the can angle sensor. I didn't think B13s had crank angle sensors though...

Originally Posted by arcangel187

Thanks for the tip. I'm guessing they bite and hold better?
The NX2000 front brake rotors are slightly larger in diameter and quite a bit thicker. They have calipers to match.


Originally Posted by arcangel187
Those wheels look pretty nice, man. Would they have those in 15 x 6.5?
They are a serious wheel, they come in 8" and 9" only for our cars. I wouldn't replace your B14 wheels with anything less than a 7" wheel and that's on the small end of things. I'd get the 15x8 or 15x9 6UL wheels in a heartbeat. The only reason I rock Panasports is because the 6ULs didn't exist when I got my wheels. There is no other choice for a cheap, incredibly great racing wheel for our cars. Now if the looks aren't your thing then you'll have to figure something else out.

Originally Posted by arcangel187
It's a bit more per wheel than I'd be looking for, but they're probably better quality and lighter weight.
They are amazing quality, and very light (not helium stupid light though). Wheel talk could go on forever though, so I'll leave it be.


Originally Posted by arcangel187
Haha thanks. I'm thinking of spending around $475 or less for a new set. If I can do a real tire within that price range, let me know.
Yes, you can get great tires for that price. I just got some Hankook Ventus RS-2 tires for $100 a tire. There are Falken Azenis tires for cheaper. They aren't the best tires in the world, but great high performance street tires. There was a comparison between four recent tires and the Hankook's got 4th place, so there are three other tires out there in the autocross game that are even better, just will have to check pricing on them.
2009-05-09 23:06:11
#43
Originally Posted by 91grayDET
HA!! Exact same thing i said when i 1st bought my old 94 SE-R...


Congratulations sir, you just bought a riding heroin car, and trust me it's addicting.

it seems like i never stop modding my car, but when i hear "wooooosh!" it makes it all worth it...


welcome to the best and most informative site on the net


Haha, thanks. I'm aware of the addiction, I think it's drastically cutting into my study time now and will soon start cutting into my bank account. I'm glad it's cheap(er than some) to support the habit.
2009-05-10 06:13:35
#44
Originally Posted by blkbird2
Hey watch it buddy...I have a full garage of BMWs here. Your buddy probably let those bastards at the dealer anal rape him. Parts along should be around 150 max even for that old car.

No offense intended. I just meant beemers, although beautiful, fast, and cool as hell (I'd be happy with any one of the past four M3 iterations, or the second to last M5, myself), are an incredibly expensive habit as far as I can tell, and too rich for my blood. And yeah, my buddy did pretty much bend over and pass the KY at the dealership.

Originally Posted by blkbird2
Just silicone around the black part of the tail lights. Don't worry about taking it off, you will be changing the light bulbs from the inside anyway. The water goes down on top of the tail lights, it will leak if you dont disperse away.

Hmm... I guess I can wait on polishing the lenses till prettying it up is finally a priority. That and silicone seems like it'll be easier to find.

Originally Posted by blkbird2
BTW LucinoSR20 Aaron needs some help, I think he is in FW, closer to you...we need to drop by give this guy a hand.

I have finals all through Thursday and commencement Saturday and Sunday. If he can wait till a week from Monday, I'm game. If not, I'm sad to miss an opportunity to get my hands dirty.
2009-05-10 06:57:49
#45
Originally Posted by BenFenner
The Pace setter short shifter is the best of the best. Terrific product, no need to knock it.

Good to know if later on I find myself dissatisfied with modding the stock shifter.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
The Nissan shift lever is basically a metal lever with a plastic ball at the fulcrum. If you brace the ball on something (a vise works) and hammer down on the top of the shift lever it will move the ball up on the shaft. There are notches I believe that you will want to move the ball up to. Move it up one notch I think. Everything else is cake.

You'll need to remove the catalytic converter heat shield from below to get at the bolt underneath. Then everything else is removed from above inside the cabin. Remove the center console with shift boot attached by sliding it forward and releasing the sprung tangs at the back of the center console first, then sliding it backwards to remove the plastic tabs. Super simple once you do it once.

Then you'll see the shift lever mounting situation and it's all self explanitory from there.

Sounds like a fun Saturday afternoon endeavor. Now I just need to find a vise.


Originally Posted by BenFenner
Oh right, the crank angle sensor. I thought you mean the can angle sensor. I didn't think B13s had crank angle sensors though...

I'm having trouble finding it on courtesyparts.com. I'm pretty confused myself. I'll have to pester GregV about it.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
The NX2000 front brake rotors are slightly larger in diameter and quite a bit thicker. They have calipers to match.

Beautiful . I did come across someone with an NX2000 complaining that every single one ever left in a junkyard has had its front brake system completely ripped out. I'll be doing reman parts myself but the popularity implied by that complaint is a good sign.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
They are a serious wheel, they come in 8" and 9" only for our cars. I wouldn't replace your B14 wheels with anything less than a 7" wheel and that's on the small end of things. I'd get the 15x8 or 15x9 6UL wheels in a heartbeat. The only reason I rock Panasports is because the 6ULs didn't exist when I got my wheels. There is no other choice for a cheap, incredibly great racing wheel for our cars. Now if the looks aren't your thing then you'll have to figure something else out.

They are amazing quality, and very light (not helium stupid light though). Wheel talk could go on forever though, so I'll leave it be.

Wow. Sounds like they're really tha shiznit. Funny you mention the width, I'm used to 7 being a stock width on fullsize GM cars (read: 80s and 90s boats) and trucks/SUVs. I had 16x8s on my '01 Blazer Xtreme, and that looked fat to me (good thing, mind you) on that truck. I am still adjusting to the idea of having an 8 or 9in wide wheel on such a small car, as I knew a guy running 10in lowrider wires on a Ram and THAT looked wide as hell. What tire size would be ideal for some 15x8's then? 205/50? 215/50?

Originally Posted by BenFenner
Yes, you can get great tires for that price. I just got some Hankook Ventus RS-2 tires for $100 a tire. There are Falken Azenis tires for cheaper. They aren't the best tires in the world, but great high performance street tires. There was a comparison between four recent tires and the Hankook's got 4th place, so there are three other tires out there in the autocross game that are even better, just will have to check pricing on them.

I've seen those RS-2s and the Azenis on this forum a lot, most everyone seems to think they're pretty good. I didn't realize it before but I'm currently running on some Fuzion ZRis, which I've read is also good. The only thing I'm worried about is that they all three of these are high performance summer tires, and I need something that will do okay in heavy rain and the occasional snow slush on the ground Dallas sees a couple of times a year. I'm probably just reading too much into "Summer Tires" as I know folks buy winter tires and there must be a reason for such an expense.
2009-05-10 15:07:26
#46
Originally Posted by arcangel187
What tire size would be ideal for some 15x8's then? 205/50? 215/50?

People call me crazy when I say a 225/55/15, 225/50/15 or 225/45/15 size tire is perfect (with no stretch either way) on a 7" wheel. Until I show them the pictures of mine.
That means for an 8" wheel I recommend 245s. They probably won't fit on the car without rubbing so maybe 235s and some fender rolling in the rear. I'd ask the forum member who rocks 6UL wheels what he runs. His name is Prodrifter and here's his thread in the Member's Ride section. 225s might be cheaper and easier to find though.


Originally Posted by arcangel187
The only thing I'm worried about is that they all three of these are high performance summer tires, and I need something that will do okay in heavy rain and the occasional snow slush on the ground Dallas sees a couple of times a year.
I delivered pizza in New England for a year and didn't have much trouble in the snow with "high performance summer" tires. Powdered and packed snow is a lot easier to drive on than icy sleety shіt though.
2009-05-11 20:53:20
#47
Originally Posted by BenFenner
People call me crazy when I say a 225/55/15, 225/50/15 or 225/45/15 size tire is perfect (with no stretch either way) on a 7" wheel. Until I show them the pictures of mine.
That means for an 8" wheel I recommend 245s. They probably won't fit on the car without rubbing so maybe 235s and some fender rolling in the rear. I'd ask the forum member who rocks 6UL wheels what he runs. His name is Prodrifter and here's his thread in the Member's Ride section. 225s might be cheaper and easier to find though.


Per his thread, he's running
# 949 Racing 6UL 15x8 +40 wheels nickle finish
# Falken Azenis RT-215 205/50 15 tires
and 5mm spacers in the rear with rolled fenders.

Damn those wheels look sick on a B13. I figured the 205s would look a little thin on his 15x8s but they look fine. According to this that sounds about right, but either way I'll pm him as his thread's closed due to the bovine activities (apparent beef followed by ecu-****-talking). I guess a wider tire would yield better grip, but a lower price and higher availability is more appealing. It is also apparent that the 195/50/15s will work as well.

At any rate, if they still offered them, I'd take these:

I suppose I can just get some silvers and paint them myself.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
I delivered pizza in New England for a year and didn't have much trouble in the snow with "high performance summer" tires. Powdered and packed snow is a lot easier to drive on than icy sleety shіt though.

Never been on powdered and packed snow but I've been sideways on icy ****. I guess if I just keep the tires in good shape from when I buy them I should have money enough for winter tires by the time the tread gets questionable. Cool beans.

Now I have a new concern: Whenever I'm driving I'll hit a bump and suddenly I'll hear a high pitched whistling/squealing coming from both front wheels, kinda like a mix between rubbing metal and a tea kettle going off, for a while. It only stops when I stop completely, but it sounds more like a vibration thing. I notice no change in how the car drives though. Any ideas? Maybe I just need to grease the hell out of my hubs? I think I should investigate the amount of monkey grease on my bushings too. I'd like to replace them with stock rubber for a softer ride but it looks like I'd have to go polyurethane. I guess the performance mods will start sooner than expected.
2009-05-21 09:17:39
#48
Update folks: I've gotten new wires, gapped and sort of indexed my plugs, and I have cap, rotor, and hinges on the way. I've also gotten belts, a shifter bushing and that annoying hex bolt that was missing in the mail. Turns out now I need a compressor. I'll be taking what pics I can and posting those soon. Next on the chopping block (after A/C is up and running - this is TX after all): finish tune up, fuel filter, silicone, p/s pump, and maybe springs and struts if I can work out a good deal.
2009-05-24 07:21:25
#49
More pic-whoring. Unfortunately, there won’t be pics of the compressor till at least Tuesday. However, turns out I can get good shots with the tripod.

Engine Bay:










New wires





Interior:

Pioneer DEH-1100MP


$4 Shift knob and worn-out shift boot



Exterior:







[img]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_KRunmichrWw/Shjs_hSdK8I/AAAAAAAAAN0/b79NBZjmzbw/s800/DSCI01611280x960.JPG [/img]





[img]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_KRunmichrWw/ShjtCr5KtGI/AAAAAAAAAOE/CJBqaGBOeRo/s800/DSCI01661280x960.JPG [/img]





[img]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_KRunmichrWw/ShjtFOaPgdI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/xLUkxePJ0GY/s800/DSCI01801280x960.JPG [/img]
2009-05-24 16:06:50
#50
I whistled for a cab and when it came near the
License plate said "Fresh" and had
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