Thread: New '91 Classic Owner - new to Japanese, low on funds, in need of advice

Well, I've decided to make this my build thread. It already pretty much is, but maybe the mods'll move it over if needed?

This is my '91 Classic with a JDM highport, tranny and clutch swap with about 63k miles or so on them. Here's the rundown:

Currently:
1991 Nissan Sentra SE-R
196k mi on the Chassis
63k or so mi on JDM engine, tranny, LSD, and clutch
Missing EGR and has a bunch (3) of disconnected plugs where it should be
Needing tranny and radiator flush
New fuel filter
New plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor
Throwing 11 (Crank Angle Sensor) (should be distributor) and 34 (Exhaust Temp Sensor) (missing EGR) CELs
Cleaned MAF and TB, air filter properly attached via MAF adapter. Thanks NismoSER!
Whining power steering pump
Needs new belts
Splashy suspension
Motor and tranny mounts shot
New rotors and pads at all 4 corners, new calipers in front - already rusted
MPG at steady 26.5 mixed driving (originally 17.5 with leaking fuel line)
Supposedly aftermarket exhaust, no idea but sounds pretty nice (low throaty hum) <- discovered to be STOCK
Otherwise, car seems to be bone stock
Trunk no longer leaking water
New Pioneer TSG1642R rear 6.5" speakers, old front Kenwood 5.25" speakers running to Pioneer DEH-1100MP h/u - need to replace Kenwoods, no bass
New aftermarket fogs in stock location
S13 shift knob
B14 wheels - in dire need of repainting
Broken a/c <- FIXED!

The goal right now is super DD: reliable, fuel efficient, comfortable, no leaks, no squeaks, tight but comfortable ride, sounds good inside, sounds good outside, looks good inside, looks good outside, clean engine bay. Everything works, it moves fast, stops faster. Safety is key.
To quote Shawn B: "OEM Plus".

Later, the goal will be boosted weekend warrior, maybe even dabble in Neo VVL and the like for crazy sleeper power. It'll be fast, it'll look sick, it'll sound sick, it'll be fun as hell, but most of all, it'll still be safe.

Stuff I've done since I got it:
Changed oil/filter, spark plugs, air filter
Replaced ventilation rubber hose between gas tank and filler neck
Replaced fuel line between steel lines and bottom of fuel filter
Replaced battery terminal rings
Pulled CEL Codes
Installed $4 shifter knob to replace unattached knob simply placed on shifter
Replaced 194 bulbs at all 4 marker lights
Installed Pioneer DEH-1100MP h/u
Replaced B14 center caps
Index and gap spark plugs, replaced wires
Cleaned MAF
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced ball joints and tie rod ends, front end alignment
Replaced receiver/dryer
Replaced cap and rotor
Installed aftermarket fogs in stock location
All new bulbs at tail end
Replaced rear speakers with Pioneer TSG1642R 6.5"
Replaced all rotors and pads and front calipers with same AD18 setup
Advanced timing to 19* before TDC
Cleaned MAF and filter again, cleaned TB
Installed S13 shift knob
Replaced 2 wheel studs on RR hub
Cleaned rear calipers
Ordered OEM springs/OBX UD pulleys/PS pump/front GR2s (
Replaced driver's side hinges
Replaced front sway bar end links
RTVed taillights
Fixed A/C (replaced compressor, high side line, rigged relay direct to ground with in-cabin switch)
Installed MAF adapter
Installed mudflaps
Replaced rear markers
Fixed glovebox door
Replaced fuse cover
Organized tools in trunk
Replaced PS pump, only for it to fail. Reinstalled old one.
Temporarily regrounded MAF
Sworn a lot

Stuff to Do:
Immediately:
-Readjust door
-Replace power steering pump again
-Install OBX 4-piece pulleys and belts
-Stock short shifter mod, install shifter bushing
-Reground MAF (permanently)
-Tranny, radiator flushes
-Replace motor and tranny mounts with prothanes
-Install front 5.25" speakers - Pioneer TS-G1342R
-Look into replacing distributor and killing EGT CEL
-Swap wheels to B13 SE-R wheels
-Look further into powdercoating/painting B14 SE-R wheels
-Install AEM CAI (purchased but not installed)
-Purchase filter for POP charger and install
-Install NX2k center console (purchased but not installed)

Probably Later:
-Install bass - Boss Audio Bass1200 if I can, if not, Boss Audio Bass600 - to go under driver's seat
-Install polished valve cover, replace gasket
-Replace CAS (discovered to be part of distributor)
-Replace springs - OEM (purchased but not installed)
-Replace shocks - KYB GR2s (have fronts (excel-g's), need rears)
-Repaint B14 wheels, probably gunmetal with light silver outer ring
-Retint windows
-Paint and rustproof calipers and rotors

Definitely Later Later:
-B14 B-pillar seatbelts
-14" electric cooling fans
-Replace all seals
-Replace clutch
-Replace front axles
-Replace master cylinder, calipers and rotors with OEM NX2000 units, replace brake hoses with steel braided ones
-Replace crapped out weatherstripping all around
-Bodywork
-Tsuru front end conversion, smoked housings
-Tsuru roof spoiler and decklid spoiler
-White-face gauges
-Replace cluster lights with LEDs
-Replace OEM foglights with OEM
-Recover interior and seats to same silver and black as exterior
-Repaint interior plastic to match
-Rig passenger door domelight switch
-Rig kick panel LED accessory lights to domelight
-Aftermarket steering wheel, maybe a Grant unit
-Rig LED daytime running lamps within headlight housing, or at least rig them to parking lamps
-Xenon body kit
-Two-tone black and silver paint (maybe canyon blue and silver, either way following Ford HD edition scheme)
-15x6.5 custom wheels that look like this, maybe some 949 Racing 6ULs if I can, Falken Azeni Tires
-FTSB
-RSTB
-IKEA brace
-Progress rear sway bar
-ES bushings kit (front only)
-Replace worn components (control arms, etc.)
-SSAC header
-Reground O2 sensor
-Stainless cat-back system
-Investigate Boost
-Investigate VVL

ORIGINAL POST:

Hello,

I'm a 22-year-old business major set to graduate in May, and I just purchased a '91 Classic with 189k miles on the chassis, but I'm told it has a JDM engine, tranny, & LSD swap, all of which have 56k or so. It's white, the body's straight but paint is faded, and the interior isn't in horrible shape, but the stereo and rear speakers are missing as the guy who sold it had been robbed and never replaced them. I'm limited on funds, but want this to basically be a reliable fun to drive DD with some pep. Maybe later when I'm in a better spot financially I'll consider boosting it moderately, but right now I want to make sure I take care of it.

I grew up with only GM cars and the occasional Dodge, big ass cars and trucks with big ass engines, all automatic (I've driven an '88 Chevy C1500, '92 Buick Roadmaster, '94 Suburban, and my most recent vehicle was an '01 Blazer Xtreme), so I'm new to this in a lot of ways.

The car was sitting for 2 years, but starts quickly and easily with the new battery the seller just put in. I plan to start off with a basic tune-up, changing spark plugs and wires, dizzy cap and rotor, pop charger filter, EGR valve (if it has it, I've read that some of the JDM ones don't), clean the MAF, clean the throttle body, change the oil and filter, I want to change the tranny fluid and filter but I don't know how much that will cost - I haven't got the time and space really to jack it up and do it myself at the moment.
It is throwing a CEL, but judging from how the pop charger filter is just shoved into place, it may be just a really dirty MAF sensor. I'm hoping that's all it is. Other than that, it's going to need shocks soon as it's splashy as hell (which is a nice change over just plain rough as hell in the Xtreme), and it seems to be a lot thirstier than it should be, but that may be due to me practicing a lot but not moving much (there's some hills that are deserted at night that I practiced on the night I got it so I would have it down in a less controlled environment, and I've been doing similar practicing with the stick).

So, my questions to everyone kind enough to help are:

1. What techniques should I use to save my clutch? I've gotten to the point where I'm still stalling frequently but now most of the time the ride's as smooth as when I'm driving an automatic. I understand that the clutch is only getting worn when it's partially engaged, but not when it's all the way in or all the way out. Is that true?

2. As the engine and tranny are JDM, what are the differences between them and USDM specs? Also, as I think the car is pre-OBDII, how do I go about reading the check engine light codes? I'm buying a Haynes manual ASAP, but will Autozone be able to help me read it?

3. I'm on a budget, but I would like to get some KYB-AGX shocks and maybe some Road Magnet springs. The car is very bouncy at the moment, so that means the springs are probably in better shape than the shocks as it bounce back immediately but it travels a lot. I know KYB-AGXs are expensive but top of the line, are there any cheaper alternatives that are still decent that I can look into in the meantime? I'm looking for something that won't be too stiff but that will handle cornering well without rolling over, so maybe even the KYB-AGX would be overkill, I don't know. I'm also thinking about doing for sure a front strut tower brace, maybe even a rear strut tower brace but I'm not sure where that would go, and I have suspicions this will kill ride quality. The IKEA brace sounds like a good plan but I don't know anybody who could weld it in, and I'm debating putting in the folding 240 seats to maximize trunk space. I love the feel of the small car but I am used to much more space. At the same time, cornering with nary a squeak or body roll sounds awesome. I don't care for lowering the car at all, as I want to preserve ride quality and don't care for worrying about how close my nose is to curbs and driveway surfaces.

4. Along the same lines as my desire for maximizing space, I have to replace the entire audio system, which I'm frankly excited about. I'm an audiophile but still very aware of my tiny budget. I love bass, but I don't want to attract much attention to myself. I had a Bose system in the Xtreme, which would have been perfect were it not for all the rattling from various places in the cab due to lack of sound proofing and cheap American (probably actually Chinese) interior plastic. Basically I want really clean highs and mids, and deep clean bass that you feel, not hear. The interior noise is minimal and I don't hear any rattling from anywhere in the B13, which makes me very happy and excited. I'm looking at finding the best 6.5"'s at all four corners I can for under $50 (understanding, of course, that I'll get what I pay for) a pair, and getting some decent clean bass in the trunk. I have owned a Bazooka self-powered 8 in. tube before and was very happy with it. I'm debating between a 6 in. Bazooka for my trunk or finding a small self-powered unit like this one to stash under the driver's seat, but I'm not sure how much room I'll have under there. Like ShawnB and his audio thread, I'm looking for the same goals - (a bit more) inexpensive, low-key, detachable face, looking as plane jane as possible while still getting decent sound. A front-mount 3.5mm jack is a must, and mp3 capability is preferred but not necessary. Any suggestions for around under $150? I'm thinking of doing a Pioneer head unit and Polk 6.5's, and running the components to a small amp, but I know next to nothing about amplifiers. Any advice?

5. I'm riding on B14 SE-R rims with decent 195/50/15s. I'm looking for some wheels (as much for aesthetics as performance) that are lightweight, gloss black face with a polished or silver lip. I know I'm looking for 4x100 wheels with a 33 or so offset, that are 15 x 6.5 or so. I like a big fat lip (coming from driving nothing but RWD American) but I know that's hard to do with FWD, and again I'm on a budget. I was looking at maybe getting these or something similar, but I don't know anything about wheel brands or features, but I'm definitely sticking with 15x6.5s because I can get badass tires for what I paid to get the ****ty tires on my Xtreme's 16x8s. Any advice is very helpful.

Ultimately, as much as I want quality, I am on a tight budget and am very aware that I will get what I pay for. I'm okay with that. At the moment price will outweigh features or niceties. Even with the audio. I greatly appreciate any and all advice/help I get from you guys, I hope to stick around a long time and pay it forward in due time.

Thanks,

Jesus L.
New B13 Owner

Hey!
Welcome to the mayhem!

Don't use carb cleaner on the MAF. Brake cleaner and such is okay.

Yes, this is true. If you can limit the amount of time you spend partially engaged, and limit the amount of rpm difference between the engine and the rest of the drive train while you're operating the clutch you will have many miles of happy motoring.


You should have less emissions equipment on the JDM engine. The USDM engines are 9.5:1 static compression ratio and the JDM engines are 10.0:1. I don't think the JDM engines will pass emissions inspection if your state does those. I'm sure there's other stuff but those are the main things.

KYB-AGX springs are not top of the line. They are the cheapest strut that will handle the spring rates of the two springs made for our car that are any good (Road Magnet and Hyperco). They are okay. You can spend a lot more on Koni's (in custom shortened strut bodies) with decidedly better ride quality.

If you aren't looking for performance, and just a freshened up suspension, there are cheaper alternatives. I think KYB GR2 or something mated with stock or stock like springs.


I think you're on the right track with the KYB-AGX and Road Magnets (look at the Hyperco too).

We have an amazing suspension thread created and maintained by our very own Shawn B. You should read the parts of it you're interested in and refer to it before asking more suspension questions. There's little doubt you'll be pointed in that direction sooner or later, and your answer is probably in it.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/1801-b13-b14-b15-suspension-information.html



Ride quality is unaffected by these modifications. Possibly slightly improved actually. See above suspension thread for your options on this as well.

Maybe you've already been to the suspension thread then? =]


You might rethink the Road Magnet springs then...

Easy enough.

Oh God. Well, you're going to need a 12" or bigger sub. And it's going to need to be inside the cabin, not the trunk. And this isn't going to happen. =/


Edit: Wait, did you mean feel like as in punched in the gut, or as in tossed around in the ocean during a storm? Gut punching = 10 inch sub. Ocean waves = 12 or bigger.

There is no depth in the front door panels for any sort of decent or large speaker. You're stuck with smaller stuff up front really (unless you go to a non-stock location for them, maybe the kick panels). The window guide is the problem causing the limited depth in the stock mounting position in the door panel. Out back you'll have a bit more room to play with if you don't mind cutting stuff.

Oh, bass in the trunk is okay for you? Not sure if you'll ever "feel" it, but okay.

You sir, are no audiophile. I'd stop labeling yourself as such. You're giving us a bad name.

Much better idea than the trunk mounted stuff I figure.


You're beyond my help it seems. I'll leave this alone.


32mm offset and 15x6.5 or 15x7 is great. Anywhere from 26mm to 40mm will do.

It's not going to happen with a 32mm offset. Unless you count those cheater lips...

Those are hideous. I'll be of no help to you if those are your thing.

Make a separate thread about wheels (and brands) to get your answers. We'll all be glad to help. Actually, you might want to make separate threads for all of this stuff so things are easier to find for everyone, no one gets overwhelmed, etc.

Damn that was fast. I have a good feeling about this place. Thank you for the warm welcome and taking the time to answer all my annoying newbie questions!



I planned on getting some specifically formulated MAF cleaner from PEP Boys, I've used it before and it works pretty well.



Thanks, I thought so but wasn't sure.




Damn. I'm not sure how strict TX is about this but it makes me a little nervous about not living in AR.



I stand corrected. I shall pore over that thread like no tomorrow when I have more time. I can buy another B13 for what I'll pay for Konis, so I think I'll stick to KYBs for now.



Stock ride height = best ride quality. Also, less of a hassle working on it.





Thank you. I read earlier how Shawn reamed a guy asking about improving ride quality with no wheel gap. I consider myself warned.



I've been doing some browsing, yeah.



I'll look into it. Thanks.



I actually meant much more tame than that. I meant like you can feel a nice, solid vibration through your seat, but nothing that should loosen fillings by any means. Again, I've been robbed of a sub that barely did this in a regular cab Chevy, I don't care for so much attention. Think stock Bose system. And that's again why I'm happy choosing a 6 in. Bazooka. That works for me until I can either figure out how to get a kickass alarm system into my price range, and can afford to have something nicer.
Besides, at the end of it all, practicality is key. A box with 12" speakers in B13 trunk doesn't really fit the bill.



Duly noted. I simply meant powering the front 6.5's with a little more than what my head unit will be pushing. And see below about the sub options.



Haha, sorry to offend. What I meant is I love music, I love listening to a piece and picking out individual instruments and even individual parts for different instruments, feeling nice solid bass mixed with clean, rich and sharp mids and highs, the type of audio equipment quality that enables you to hear the second trombone player's finger slip when going from 1st to 6th position and overshooting it slightly in an orchestra of 200. I also like hearing some funk and being able to pick out secondary and tertiary parts, licks, and whatnot that you can't normally hear unless you're there. I listen to just about everything, with a penchant towards hip-hop (please don't flame for that, I have a feeling there's not much love for that here, but that's okay) and latin music. I just don't know much of anything about audio equipment, brands, etc., and my experience with audio equipment is obscenely limited due to growing up broke surrounded by broke folks who know how to get big noise but don't care much for nice sound, lots of trunk rattlers. I operate on value-for-the-money rather than a more educated value outright. Can I still possibly have honorary audiophile-in-the-making status?



Sounds like it to me too, but I'm scared of the shallow build. Shawn B, what's the verdict on that Almani unit?



Appreciate all your help as it is. This is very very helpful.



Awesome. I'll need to look into cheater lips. I may just be okay with that.



Your honesty is appreciated. I like simple 5-star designs, but the classic BBS meshes are pretty sweet. I'd love some of those.



I appreciate all your help! I'm so grateful! I look forward to being on here for some time.

This is cheater lip. Notice how the spokes head out towards the outside of the rim of the wheel but notch back in to give the appearance of a lip when there really isn't much of one.


Here is real lip.






Here is real lip combined with cheater lip.

The stock fronts on a B13 are not 6.5" in diameter. They are no larger than 5" (can't remember how small though).

This is a good place, and Ben is very knowledgeable and friendly.






Texas is strict as hell.

I usually take my Classic to a good friend of mine in the business. He makes an "adju$tment" to the vehicle with appropriate financial compensation to get it to pass. You just need a few friends in the automotive repair and inspection businesses.


KYB GR2'w with stock springs and a (pre-owned) Progress rear sway bar would be perfectly acceptable for a DD and very inexpensive.

You can get superb ride quality, equal to or better than OEM, with an aftermarket lowered suspension. However, "inexpensive" is not part of that suspension equation.




Me? Ream someone who is acting the ignorant, lazy fool?

I have no memory of that, cannot recall the incident, and plead the Fifth.


I changed it to a Boss Bass 600 (8" powered sub, 200 watts RMS) and am going to pick the vehicle up in....about an hour. .......

The sub still fits right under the passenger seat and visually disappears.

Holy sh*t I am excited. Good god, I have not felt like this since I was ten years old.

I'll let you know on the sub once I take a little test drive. Like fifteen (15) hours to Savannah. That should give me plenty of time to sort out the audio system settings.


You sir, shall do just fine on this forum.

Intelligent, well worded, properly informed questions with enough detail for us to actually help you. You have a good sense of humor, your intelligence is readily apparent, you're humble, and friendly.

Welcome to the Dash.

__________________________________

And anyone that is amazed that I am actually being friendly can go f*ck themselves. ......

lol (I demand hundreds of pics, including tri-podded B13 action!)

Welcome to your new addiction arc!

See this from a recent thread:

Welcome to the forum!

It appears that you're considering upgrading the suspension and the Road Magnets are a great spring. The other highly respected spring for our car is the Hyperco. Check out the differences between them on ShawnB's suspension thread, it has all the info. I only mention this because currently there is a group buy going on for the hypercos, which is the only way to get them unless you can find someone selling theirs in the classifieds. They are approximately $350 shipped and it looks like the group buy will be closing soon. The last group buy for them was several years ago. Here's the link:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/group-buys/15659-hyperco-gb-link.html

And I will add that while a koni suspension is expensive, it is worth every penny. I love mine!

Good luck with your car!

You're very right. They're apparently 5.25". Good to know. Can't wait till I'm in a position to start shopping for those.