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Thread: SE-R back from the dead... (More Pics added!...)

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Posts: 21-30 of 91
2009-02-13 05:54:03
#21
Ok, sorry its taking me so long. These double shift days kinda suck.

To start out, take out the battery, battery tray, and intake assembly.



Unhook the clutch cable from the tranny and if its old, it is most likely stretched and is reccomended to replace. Most parts stores sell them for about $30



Next, jack up the car and make sure it it completely stable. I used jack stands under the frame. Now you can pull off the front wheels and remove the codder pin and axle nut.



To remove the axle's, I find it easiest to unbolt the struts. There are two 18mm bolts holding it to the spindle. Once it is free, the lower control arm will drop down and you can slide the axle out. Do this on both sides.



For the driver side, use a prybar to gently pop the axle out.



On the passenger side, remove the three 12mm bolts that hold it in. It should slide out easily.



Now to unbolt the tranny. There are two 17mm bolts above the passenger axel on the back side of the motor/tranny.




The hard to find 14mm bolts are through the rear motor/tranny mount. you will need a long enough extension to reach across the exhaust, cross member and through the mount. My car is missing one of the bolts lol.



While your under the car you can go ahead and unbolt the shift linkage. Its a 12mm bolt and nut if I remember correctly.



I for got to take a pick ot the two 14mm bolts on the bottom of the tranny but they are easy to find. Ratcheting wrenches work great on them.

On the top of the tranny, there are two 17mm bolts that are hard to see if your not looking for them.



There are two long 14mm bolts that hold the starter in. Its the bottom bolt in the first picture.




After that, It would be a good idea to have a jack ready under the tranny. Remove the remaining 17mm bolts on the front side of the tranny.




Now make sure the speedometer cable and all sensors are unpluged and removed. The pic of the speedometer cable looks like its upside because I was having a hard time getting the camera where I could get a clear shot.





Dont forget the plug on the bottom of the tranny. I believe its the reverse switch.



Now you can remove the tranny mount on the driver side.



Now all you have to do is slide the tranny off the crank and keep it steady and lower it with the jack. The trans doesn't weigh a ton but i prefer to ue a jack.

Big thanks to my little bro for helping out. His name on here is MercerSX. Its nice to have somebody to help out.



Unfortunately for me, I couldnt finish ater I found the damage to my crank and flywheel so I dont have any pics of installing the clutch but when I do, I will post them also.

Its always a good idea to have the flywheels checked and resurfaced/turned if necessary. Make sure to use an alignment tool when installing the clutch disc and pressure plate. Torque the flywheel and clutch bolts as specified by Nissan. Its a good idea to clean out the bell housing with brake parts cleaner to get rid of all the dust and debree from the old clutch. Always replace the throw out bearing and grease the slide. White lithium grease has always worked great for me.

I hope this can help some people that normally wouldnt tackle this project on their own. I had fun doing it.
2009-02-13 06:34:56
#22
I guess the next thing on the list is to either get another crank and rebuild the motor or find a cheap de to throw in the car for now. This project is already costing me alot more than I had intended. I bought this car to be a cheap daily driver so that I could finish the twin turbo setup on my mustang. Im having enough trouble trying to pay the rent let alone buying parts for several cars. I also has a 91 MR2 Turbo that I want to have some fun with one of these days. I wish I could whore myself out to pay for parts lol. Hopefully i will stay motivated on this project...
2009-02-13 07:53:47
#23
Those MR-2s are good cars.

You may have enough bits to swap the cranks but to do it the right way you have to turn it and order the next largest size bearings. It might run good if you have the right wear on all the components but... it never really works for long.

Cheer up man. It looks like you also have aftermarket engine mounts and suspension. Your car was pretty well modified back when it ran.
2009-02-13 13:41:30
#24
Originally Posted by Benito
Those MR-2s are good cars.

You may have enough bits to swap the cranks but to do it the right way you have to turn it and order the next largest size bearings. It might run good if you have the right wear on all the components but... it never really works for long.

Cheer up man. It looks like you also have aftermarket engine mounts and suspension. Your car was pretty well modified back when it ran.


Thats why I was thinking about just getting another de and swapping it in. With all the money id spend on getting the crank checked and turned, new main and rod bearings, and the gaskets i would need. And while I have it appart, I would want to put arp rod bolts in it. It would probably be a good idea to just swap in another motor.

ya, with all the parts on the car, id say i still got a good deal. My little bro took this pic. He said the full pulley set is $200+ or something. He was trying to get me to let him have them for his 200sx lol.

2009-02-13 13:57:53
#25
The engine mounts look like JWT which when were selling were $250.
The UO Pulleys are just about as expensive.

Hope you get her runnin again.
2009-02-14 01:46:52
#26
Originally Posted by donshou
The engine mounts look like JWT which when were selling were $250.
The UO Pulleys are just about as expensive.

Hope you get her runnin again.


This is cool to know. You all know alot more about these cars than I do lol. Its starting to sound more and more like I got a pretty good deal on this thing with all the parts that are on it.

I think that im gonna end up stealing the crank out of the other motor and replacing all the rod and main bearings while im at it. If i pick up the other block this weekend I will start to tear into it and pull the motor out of the car. Luckily i just got paid so im thinking about ordering an engine stand from jegs. Then I will be broke again till next pay day lol.
2009-02-14 01:48:38
#27
My bad, im at my bro's house and didnt realize he was logged in lol ^
2009-02-15 20:17:30
#28
Originally Posted by Benito
Looks like a 91-92 to me too. I don't see any 93/4 traits on it.

You know your stuff! I checked the VIN and its a 92
2009-02-16 07:56:08
#29
^ Yeah, that's all 91-92 elements about that car. From the pics it looks like they used the jdm flywheel bolts which were undoubtedly the a/t flywheel bolts. The a/t bolts are shorter cuz all they hold on is a thin flexplate and a spacer.

It sounds like you have all the necessary parts due to that other motor to replace the crank, but keep in mind if you can get a running motor from your local junk yard, it'd only be about $150, or you can get another jdm engine for 4-500. Come to think of it, I've seen a few DE's for sale in the classifieds section for cheap, too. Check the classifieds section for an engine.

Good luck with your car, bro.

Lance
2009-03-09 19:44:54
#30
Finally got around to pulling the motor and swaping the cranks and bearings. We worked till 3 in the morning last night between the crank swap, putting the motor back in my car, and pulling the tranny on my little bro's se-r. Here are some pics of the fun.



















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