Thread: NX2000 front brake conversion

Easy just to slap stuff on. Bit more work to get it right :-)

if your not building a full blown track car you can leave it
it works fine

Oh ok. I thought there was a bracket or something I would need. Fast answers to thanks!

yeah pretty sure you need the caliper bracket that the caliper actually bolts onto

the peices next to the caliper

Oh cool now I know exactly what bracket it is. I was thinking that part came with the calipers and I needed another type of bracket off the NX.

The piece you are referring to is the torque member. It comes off the nx2000 and is needed to put the ad22vf's on a sentra.

Right, you will need to NX2000 torque member to make the swap. Some rebuilt calipers come with the torque member, some do not. If the caliper is listed as "loaded" it probably comes with the torque member and new street pads. But if you can check a picture of the part, that's another way to confirm exactly what you are getting.

Yup, you need the torque member - I've not seen a "loaded" caliper without them, but it's worth checking. REAL hard to attach the caliper to the car without.

You have two choices for the splash guard - the thin stamped sheet that pretends to keep water and dust and whatever off the inside surface of the rotor -- you can either grind off some of the material so the larger caliper will fit, or just remove it. Most folks just toss it, and certainly for a track car that makes sense for increased air flow, but for a street car you may want to go to harbor freight or some such to get a cheap grinder, like http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31309. Nissan didn't engineer that piece just for the fun of it.

Not sure if Matt Pound meant "it works just fine" about the bias, but if actual total decreased braking capacity is "just fine", that's your decision, of course. What I found on my application - fresh rebuild nx2k fronts, inexpensive aftermarket front rotors, fresh rebuild stock rear calipers with fresh rotors, and the now no longer to be had for loyalty to Matt Carbotech Bobcats all four, I found the nx2k fronts to be so much more powerful that the rears seemed to do virtually nothing - fronts locked up quickly and overall effectiveness actually decreased, hence the hunt for the nx2k mc with the correct bias valves. Many guys do the big rear rotors and calipers off the Maxima, but I've never been fond of blind faith when it comes to my neck, so I went for an engineered solution.

ps, I've crewed for true race cars (McLarens, Lolas, etc.) off and on for four decades. NOT ONE of the drivers of one of those cars would tolerate the half-assed crap that I read about being done on either this or the old site in the name of "looking sweet." Do lousy work on an engine and it's likely you'll only have to pull over to the side of the road and look stupid. Jack with brakes, tires, suspension with less than your best and you're somewhat likely to end up dead.

I hear your principles, but front NX2k brakes (alone) have worked well for me as a novice in two different HPDEs, including the cool Autobahn in Chicago.

Some of the SE-R 'wannabe-races' (including me) are a far cry from those serious professional programs.

Yea Jerry, they work just fine. If it moves the bias its only a marginal percent. I ran my auto Classic on ad22vf's for many many years, autocrossed it a few times, and lord knows stopped on rainy roads a lot. With the weight distrubution that it is on a classic, moving it more up front wouldnt be bad. Id say for 99% of the people out there, they wouldnt notice one issue.

The issue with your's locking up the fronts and the rears doing nothing... could be bad tires, could be a faulty stock MC....or just senility . But I never noticed anything different about how the car stopped. The rears do little to nothing on our cars. On both the b13 race cars, we usually leave one set of rear pads/rotors on the car almost all season, while the fronts get changed almost every session sometimes. Greg runs a prop. valve and Joe does not, still nearly the same results. I can say tho that for anything but 8/10ths driving and above I bet not one issue with bad bias would show up.


as for the splash shield, what I did was bend back the metal where it touched the caliper and then bent everything flat with a set of vice grips. Having spent all summer working with sheet metal, it was the most logical thing for me to do. cut the bottom of the splash guard where the 'weep hole' is, and then flatten out the pie. that way i left it on there to stop stones from getting to the rotors, and with it flattened out, it covered ALL the rotor not just part. but if its a track car, id remove them for the extra cooling