Thread: SR20DE UK 10:1 bin needed

I am looking for a stock bin for the SR20DE UK engine. The engine has the flat top pistons (10:1) but is running a usdm p10 head and cams with stock 270 (red) injectors and a stock p10 maf. We are also using a stock b13 board with a moates daughter board.

We are currently using the stock p10 tune but think i may be pinging and reducing power. We race the P10 for 24 hours of lemons so it is run hard and long.

Any help would be appreciated.

pm me your email addy. I think I have this bin or can make it for you.

I thought I had save some EDM bins but all I got is JDM and USDM bins. Since your already using a good bin I would just retard the distributor timing from 15 to 13 and go from there.

If you are pinging that's bad for the engine but should not be reducing power per say. Since the engine has a new head on it i'd say your timing chain is off a tooth. This will make it ping and have reduced power. (double and triple check it)

Also check the crank pulley, old ones can spin on the rubber. Thus showing a wrong reading. Double check with something in the cylinder to see TDC.

I do have some performance bins but I would double check the motor over first.

Yeah we cant seem to figure out why the engine looses power over time. We took it to a track day and our times got slower as the day got hotter. When it was cool we didn't have a problem. We may be heat soaking or something but I have a feeling the motor is going into secondary maps.. We put some octane boost in the car, but I will double check the timing.

Do you have any bins for 10:1 compression engines?

You can disable the knock sensor in your tune if you think your going to the knock map OR you can just make the normal and knock map the same and remove the knock numbers. That's easy

A true 10:1 tune will probably have less or equal timing. So I don't think there is much to be gained there. If anything your going to want some more timing, to get more power out of it.

Did you make sure the mechanical timing and distributor timing is spot on?

Haulin200sx, thanks for the reply.

The engine did not make it through our last race. It overheated 4 hours into the race... :-( Timing and everything looked good when we checked it before the race. We think it was the head gasket or a failed (shut) thermostat (most likely the head gasket). It was weird because we werent burning water and temps were pretty good, but that was probably the reason for our lose of power.

Good news is I picked up a JDM sentra SR20 engine. It should have the 9.5:1 CR so we should be good to go with our stock tune. I have some "tune" bins from Calum's old posts so I will probably tweek one of those in the future.

We still have the 10:1 CR block and head, but it will probably need some machine before use. In one lap the water temps went from 220 to 290F (pegged out) and the Oil hit 300F so we have a feeling the block and head may be a warped. We compression tested the engine and it was bad... 120, 60, 50, 80. We have a race in two weeks, but we will disassemble the blown engine after that.

Thank you for your help with all of this tuning though :-)

On a side note: I have a U12 SR20det in my b13 SE-R and am having a weird issue I cannot seem to fix. The car bucks and boggs very bad at low throttle and high rpm. When ever the throttle body fully close, the engine boggs pretty harshly. I have to roll off the throttle very very slowly to keep it from upsetting the car when on the track. The engine is a stock U12 with a T25 and 7 psi stock waste-gate pressure. It does have an Ebay FMIC kit (put on before me) with a HKS (real) bov. I am currently running a stock U12 tune that is returning good AFRs (a little rich but it is a stock tune).

I have checked the TPS sensor and the voltages are good and NDS is showing the closed throttle activation at the lowest voltage point. I also recirced the bov and put the real HKS bov on (the previous was a fake one). I am recircing the flow from just upstream of the throttle body to just upstream of the turbo inlet (but downstream of the MAF). I have done a vacuum test but couldnt find anything. The engine seems to hold 22 psi vacuum at idle which seems healthy. The only issue I can think of at this point is the tune. I am assuming that since it has much more piping due to the FMIC that this is causing the issue. Either that or the way the hks bov is working compared to a stock recirc valve.

Any Ideas?? I am going to try disconnecting the bov and see if that helps. Only issue is I do not want to run it like that for long.