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Thread: No front sway bar?

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Posts: 11-20 of 44
2014-11-07 20:03:32
#11
The B15 really does not suffer as badly as the B14 does out of the factory. The beam is different and moves differently. Stop the beam from moving, you can bend it out to zero toe to help more.

You can also easily bend the beam with the wheels mounted to the beam, using a high-pressure air jack (looks like a big bar). Place the air jack on the forward facing parts of the wheels and slowly increase pressure. Since this is being done cold, the beam will spring back once pressure is relieved so the force would need to bend the beam out of the spec in which you desire. I take no responsibility if you take my comments and hurt yourself. Understand what pressures and forces you are dealing with before making a silly decision.
2014-11-07 20:16:02
#12
^ um yeah, and he has a b14 and not a b15 ( but I can only wonder how bad ours was before the beam was bent.. lol)
2014-11-07 22:34:42
#13
Kyle, I'm smart enough to know that I don't have the know how nor the capability to do it myself.
2014-11-07 22:59:50
#14
Originally Posted by Chris101
^ um yeah, and he has a b14 and not a b15 ( but I can only wonder how bad ours was before the beam was bent.. lol)


I know, if all the posts are read in this thread, namely post #8 that would be why I mentioned the B15 beam for a small moment. The B15 and Maxima beam chassis' differ a lot from the B14.
Last edited by Kyle on 2014-11-07 at 23-04-15.
2014-11-07 23:00:56
#15
ah okay, my apologies then
2014-11-07 23:06:38
#16
If anyone is unable to help you beam the car, there are other options I know Rockwood would support.

Swap the beam from a B15 onto your car, stiffen the rear, and smile on? That would probably fix a lot of problems. (and sadly cause you to have different wheel bolt patterns and such.
2014-11-10 03:31:52
#17
Originally Posted by Kyle
If anyone is unable to help you beam the car, there are other options I know Rockwood would support.

Swap the beam from a B15 onto your car, stiffen the rear, and smile on? That would probably fix a lot of problems. (and sadly cause you to have different wheel bolt patterns and such.


B15 rear can be swapped into a B14? Bolt pattern wouldn't be a huge issue as all I'd have to do is get hubs from a P10 or P11 for the fronts. Maybe something to consider if (and when) we get wider tires.
2014-11-10 11:28:57
#18
^ finding wheels in 4x114.3 is not as easy keep in mind

I thought the b15 and p11 rear beam were identical btw (perhaps someone else here knows for sure?)
2014-11-10 14:47:11
#19
@Vadim for beam nonsense. :P
2014-11-12 04:53:00
#20
Originally Posted by metro_se-r

B15 rear can be swapped into a B14? Bolt pattern wouldn't be a huge issue as all I'd have to do is get hubs from a P10 or P11 for the fronts. Maybe something to consider if (and when) we get wider tires.


It can be, you will need B14 wheel bearing/hub assemblies too. It's not worth it because the B15 beam is actually more reinforced. Plus has a more reinforced SRL linkage, all of this will increase the rear traction, so more understear.

Originally Posted by Chris101
^ finding wheels in 4x114.3 is not as easy keep in mind

I thought the b15 and p11 rear beam were identical btw (perhaps someone else here knows for sure?)


If you go aftermarket 114.3 is not bad, I see plenty of dual bolt pattern rims. Plus S14's & Altimas use the same pattern.

B15 and P11 beams are very different. B15 beam is smaller but has a beefier torsion bar (at least on my 01 SE w/PP). P11 beam looks like a maxima one more then anything.

It also uses a 14mm SRL beam mount on the beam while P11 is 17mm. This is important because P11 runs out of range faster for the squishy bushing to move, which means it locks up faster. Also P11 has beam shift even at stock height, never mind being lowered. My B15 had a dead square centered beam at even -1".
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