Originally Posted by BenFenner
Chris hit on some good issues. The water pump causes cavitation at high rpm so you slow it down with a larger pulley.
One thing I would also stress is the importance of keeping oil by the pickup. That means a perfectly un-dented oil pan and possibly slightly overfilling the oil and/or some type of baffle solution. Like any engine, oil is important, but ours will ruin the 3rd rod bearing if you look at it funny.
Ask specific questions, get specific answers.
Chris hit on some good issues. The water pump causes cavitation at high rpm so you slow it down with a larger pulley.
One thing I would also stress is the importance of keeping oil by the pickup. That means a perfectly un-dented oil pan and possibly slightly overfilling the oil and/or some type of baffle solution. Like any engine, oil is important, but ours will ruin the 3rd rod bearing if you look at it funny.
Ask specific questions, get specific answers.
Thanks I'll keep all of that in mind.
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Apparently the MAF connections like to go bad. Search "re-ground MAF" or similar for those issues.
Apparently the MAF connections like to go bad. Search "re-ground MAF" or similar for those issues.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by blusteelsr20
I understood his initial question from the get go. I'm currently involved with NASA AZ and there are not many SR powered vehicles representing here. From my own experience the cooling system definitely needs to be upgraded with at least a 2 row radiator ( NX or Koyo, Mishimoto, etc) and an underdrive pulley for the water pump as previously mentioned. Get a REAL water temp gauge for accurate readings. I blew a headgasket because I relied on the idiot stock gauge and it cost me. This is on a DE in AZ heat in August. Slightly overfill your oil pan because depending on the lateral forces in tight turns you don't want to starve your bearings. Just speaking from my own experience. Carry an extra set of wheel bearings for the front and an extra hub as I have gone through my share of them the last couple of years. Make sure you have a good alignment before tracking your car also. A good set of coilovers is optimal suspension wise but I did ok on KYB AGXs and Roadmagnet springs. If you get a chance upgrade your rear sway bar & jump on some decent front and rear STBs. That's just a few pieces of info, feel free to PM me if you have more questions. Glad to see a fellow SR pilot tracking for fun.
I understood his initial question from the get go. I'm currently involved with NASA AZ and there are not many SR powered vehicles representing here. From my own experience the cooling system definitely needs to be upgraded with at least a 2 row radiator ( NX or Koyo, Mishimoto, etc) and an underdrive pulley for the water pump as previously mentioned. Get a REAL water temp gauge for accurate readings. I blew a headgasket because I relied on the idiot stock gauge and it cost me. This is on a DE in AZ heat in August. Slightly overfill your oil pan because depending on the lateral forces in tight turns you don't want to starve your bearings. Just speaking from my own experience. Carry an extra set of wheel bearings for the front and an extra hub as I have gone through my share of them the last couple of years. Make sure you have a good alignment before tracking your car also. A good set of coilovers is optimal suspension wise but I did ok on KYB AGXs and Roadmagnet springs. If you get a chance upgrade your rear sway bar & jump on some decent front and rear STBs. That's just a few pieces of info, feel free to PM me if you have more questions. Glad to see a fellow SR pilot tracking for fun.
Any reason for the rear sway bar upgrade? I had issues with oversteer the last time I tracked this car but it was stock, I'd assume with coilovers the springs rates could be set to make it handle fairly well, I was thinking a front bar but I guess not.
Thank you for all the input!
Originally Posted by Chris101
^ I'm pretty sure the AZ heat thing is unique in many of your issues because we have never had a problem with the stock radiator in our track g20 and average 35 to 40 track days a year since 2009 in the thing.
August in AZ tends to be over 100 - 110 in the day and DRY oven hot whereas in the midwest, 80-90s and humid is much more typical in August.
We also don't go through a ton of front wheel bearings and hubs (average of replacement once a year so it will last us 35 to 40 track days on average) so again, might be a little bit more about the extreme heat issues in AZ that overheat the bearing grease and cause premature failure due to climate (also the dry AZ air I'm sure doesn't help matters much)
Having a water temp and oil temp and oil pressure gauge is a must for tracking though IMHO.
^ I'm pretty sure the AZ heat thing is unique in many of your issues because we have never had a problem with the stock radiator in our track g20 and average 35 to 40 track days a year since 2009 in the thing.
August in AZ tends to be over 100 - 110 in the day and DRY oven hot whereas in the midwest, 80-90s and humid is much more typical in August.
We also don't go through a ton of front wheel bearings and hubs (average of replacement once a year so it will last us 35 to 40 track days on average) so again, might be a little bit more about the extreme heat issues in AZ that overheat the bearing grease and cause premature failure due to climate (also the dry AZ air I'm sure doesn't help matters much)
Having a water temp and oil temp and oil pressure gauge is a must for tracking though IMHO.
Since I plan to run enduros I may go overboard with any reliability mods.
Originally Posted by hammerin
I can't believe you guys haven't mentioned motor mounts! Search for "Prothane"
Also be aware the B13 trannies have an issue with 5th gear pop out. They will also self destruct when you start increasing power...especially with boost.
Since the SR only holds about 3.5 quarts of oil, an oil cooler isn't a bad idea. Especially, if you plan on doing enduros.
I can't believe you guys haven't mentioned motor mounts! Search for "Prothane"
Also be aware the B13 trannies have an issue with 5th gear pop out. They will also self destruct when you start increasing power...especially with boost.
Since the SR only holds about 3.5 quarts of oil, an oil cooler isn't a bad idea. Especially, if you plan on doing enduros.
I've already had 5th gear issues in the past, power won't be much more than stock if any, just I/H/E is all I really care for as of now. I'm looking for reliability and fun over outright speed, I don't have the funds to win the ITA battles here in the southeast anyway, the ITA record at Road Atlanta is intense.