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Thread: SE-R Race Car Questions

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Posts: 51-58 of 58
2012-02-24 02:06:00
#51
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Chris hit on some good issues. The water pump causes cavitation at high rpm so you slow it down with a larger pulley.

One thing I would also stress is the importance of keeping oil by the pickup. That means a perfectly un-dented oil pan and possibly slightly overfilling the oil and/or some type of baffle solution. Like any engine, oil is important, but ours will ruin the 3rd rod bearing if you look at it funny.



Ask specific questions, get specific answers.


Thanks I'll keep all of that in mind.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
Apparently the MAF connections like to go bad. Search "re-ground MAF" or similar for those issues.


Thanks!

Originally Posted by blusteelsr20
I understood his initial question from the get go. I'm currently involved with NASA AZ and there are not many SR powered vehicles representing here. From my own experience the cooling system definitely needs to be upgraded with at least a 2 row radiator ( NX or Koyo, Mishimoto, etc) and an underdrive pulley for the water pump as previously mentioned. Get a REAL water temp gauge for accurate readings. I blew a headgasket because I relied on the idiot stock gauge and it cost me. This is on a DE in AZ heat in August. Slightly overfill your oil pan because depending on the lateral forces in tight turns you don't want to starve your bearings. Just speaking from my own experience. Carry an extra set of wheel bearings for the front and an extra hub as I have gone through my share of them the last couple of years. Make sure you have a good alignment before tracking your car also. A good set of coilovers is optimal suspension wise but I did ok on KYB AGXs and Roadmagnet springs. If you get a chance upgrade your rear sway bar & jump on some decent front and rear STBs. That's just a few pieces of info, feel free to PM me if you have more questions. Glad to see a fellow SR pilot tracking for fun.


Any reason for the rear sway bar upgrade? I had issues with oversteer the last time I tracked this car but it was stock, I'd assume with coilovers the springs rates could be set to make it handle fairly well, I was thinking a front bar but I guess not.

Thank you for all the input!

Originally Posted by Chris101
^ I'm pretty sure the AZ heat thing is unique in many of your issues because we have never had a problem with the stock radiator in our track g20 and average 35 to 40 track days a year since 2009 in the thing.

August in AZ tends to be over 100 - 110 in the day and DRY oven hot whereas in the midwest, 80-90s and humid is much more typical in August.

We also don't go through a ton of front wheel bearings and hubs (average of replacement once a year so it will last us 35 to 40 track days on average) so again, might be a little bit more about the extreme heat issues in AZ that overheat the bearing grease and cause premature failure due to climate (also the dry AZ air I'm sure doesn't help matters much)

Having a water temp and oil temp and oil pressure gauge is a must for tracking though IMHO.


Since I plan to run enduros I may go overboard with any reliability mods.

Originally Posted by hammerin
I can't believe you guys haven't mentioned motor mounts! Search for "Prothane"

Also be aware the B13 trannies have an issue with 5th gear pop out. They will also self destruct when you start increasing power...especially with boost.

Since the SR only holds about 3.5 quarts of oil, an oil cooler isn't a bad idea. Especially, if you plan on doing enduros.


I've already had 5th gear issues in the past, power won't be much more than stock if any, just I/H/E is all I really care for as of now. I'm looking for reliability and fun over outright speed, I don't have the funds to win the ITA battles here in the southeast anyway, the ITA record at Road Atlanta is intense.
2012-02-25 19:31:00
#52
Sway bar upgrade was a must for me to move up in class along with the coilover upgrade. Depending on your driving style you may not need to upgrade your stock rear sway if you are dealing with oversteer. My FWD understeer issues left me no choice. Everything's dependent on how well you want it to handle relative to what speed you can keep your car under control at the speed you feel comfortable at without losing it. Prothanes are a must have for the serious road racer but it's a love/hate relationship. Love how it keeps engine & drivetrain solid under extreme loads but unless one has a tolerance for vibration it can be a major headache. Nuts and bolts can vibrate loose and fall out unless they are secured with red Loctite liquid. Ask me how I know. The oil cooler is a very good idea if you push your car hard especially in warm temps.I had no choice but to get one since I race the VE in AZ and VEs tend to run higher oil temps than a DE. One of the best investments I have ever made for the car. Even at full blast oil temps stayed at 210-220 in the heat. Simontibbs, at the least get a set of gauges, ES bushings for the stock sways, better radiator with underdrive WP pulley, check alignment & condition of wheel bearings. Tighten nuts & bolts, consider ES inserts for your motor & tranny mount (new, not your used stock mounts) if Prothanes are too harsh. Prothanes are by far your best option but that's your call. I'm staying NA so I think I've addressed the reliability issues for now but you get into a habit of checking everything after each session. Get used to doing that, it may save you from a potentially critical issue down the road ie hose clamps, loose MAF connections, clutch cable, checking fluid levels, tighten lug nuts.... you get the idea. Go out & have fun while you learn how much fun your car can really be. Stay safe & memorize the course flags like the back of your hand.
2012-02-25 23:49:22
#53
Originally Posted by blusteelsr20
Sway bar upgrade was a must for me to move up in class along with the coilover upgrade. Depending on your driving style you may not need to upgrade your stock rear sway if you are dealing with oversteer. My FWD understeer issues left me no choice. Everything's dependent on how well you want it to handle relative to what speed you can keep your car under control at the speed you feel comfortable at without losing it. Prothanes are a must have for the serious road racer but it's a love/hate relationship. Love how it keeps engine & drivetrain solid under extreme loads but unless one has a tolerance for vibration it can be a major headache. Nuts and bolts can vibrate loose and fall out unless they are secured with red Loctite liquid. Ask me how I know. The oil cooler is a very good idea if you push your car hard especially in warm temps.I had no choice but to get one since I race the VE in AZ and VEs tend to run higher oil temps than a DE. One of the best investments I have ever made for the car. Even at full blast oil temps stayed at 210-220 in the heat. Simontibbs, at the least get a set of gauges, ES bushings for the stock sways, better radiator with underdrive WP pulley, check alignment & condition of wheel bearings. Tighten nuts & bolts, consider ES inserts for your motor & tranny mount (new, not your used stock mounts) if Prothanes are too harsh. Prothanes are by far your best option but that's your call. I'm staying NA so I think I've addressed the reliability issues for now but you get into a habit of checking everything after each session. Get used to doing that, it may save you from a potentially critical issue down the road ie hose clamps, loose MAF connections, clutch cable, checking fluid levels, tighten lug nuts.... you get the idea. Go out & have fun while you learn how much fun your car can really be. Stay safe & memorize the course flags like the back of your hand.


Thanks for all the info! I believe IT allows mount inserts now so I'll look into those. I guess the thing to do as with any track car is do as much preventative maintenance as possible with an emphasis on cooling and oil related items for these motors. Running here in the southeast it does get quite hot out there and running enduros will put reliability to the test.

I know the flags for sure, I started working for Road Atlanta doing flagging about 4 years ago. I swear all drivers should do it, you learn a LOT watching other drivers get it right and not so right.
2012-05-12 19:40:35
#54
Simon, I have run my '92 SE-R in IT since 2003 when I did the double school at Robling Road. I mostly run in the Central Florida Region so Sebring and Daytona. I installed a Koyo radiator, Mocal oil cooler and I run a big oil filter. An increase in oil capacity is a good thing. Despite this my oil temps regulary peg my Autometer mechanical temp guage at 250 degress! As soon as I let off the temp comes down immidiately though. I have not had any issues wiht the engine to date! As far as I know it is the original engine and I have never pulled it from the car since I purchased it in 2001. Over 150,000 miles and it is fast on the track. I have won at least one 90min enduro at Daytona and podiumed several other races. The biggest problem I had while developing the car was axle issues. I destroyed an axle in 3 laps at Daytona one time! So don't lower the car more than one inch. The geometry gets so bad that it is not worth it to lower it any more anyway.

Hope this helps. Think you will make it down to CFR anytime? Let me know!
2013-09-06 19:52:07
#55
While over a year old, a very helpful thread. Thanks!
2013-10-05 03:19:17
#56
and if using the DE, don't forget to install Rocker Arm Stoppers

install a front underbar to tie together your front lower arms
2013-10-05 13:32:24
#57
@sunny - Care you back up that claim of rocker arm stoppers being helpful? They are regularly hated on, and IMO for good reason.

One thing I wish I'd mentioned before was the front sway bar bushing retainer washers. Those are fragile OEM items that need upgrading.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2013-10-05 at 13-34-24.
2013-10-06 03:04:56
#58
Originally Posted by BenFenner
@sunny - Care you back up that claim of rocker arm stoppers being helpful? They are regularly hated on, and IMO for good reason.

One thing I wish I'd mentioned before was the front sway bar bushing retainer washers. Those are fragile OEM items that need upgrading.


OMG!!! My deepest apologies for even recommending RAS (feel like a dum@ss), we have been using them on DE and DET's here in the Philippines without any issues and have been installing the RAS based on info i read back very early 2000's (as extra insurance) (i was gonna order a set to install in our LHD conversion GTiR)

so when you called me out on it, i was surprised and knew something's up, so did a search on feedback for RAS and came up with about 10 years worth of Bad feedback.

wow! what used to be good for our DE's back then is bad for them now.

this quote from Andreas was more than enough to convince me to pull out the RAS we installed on DE's and DET's

RAS without valve springs and retainers are pure sh*t. When you put in RAS and have nothing to stop the valve from floating you will cause the valve to hit the piston because the rocker will not dislodge until the valve hits the piston.

If you were to run around without RAS on stock valve train the rocker would just fly out and or break and you would just have to replace it. Everytime you mess up a rocker with RAS the valve will be bent. This means new motor or expensive rebuild.

If you get springs and retainers the rocker will stay on with no problem up to 8700 RPMs. Now with RAS on top you will further secure your valvetrain becasue the RAS will stop and early rocker dislodge.
Last edited by Andreas Miko; 06-21-2005 at 11:14 PM.
Last edited by sunny on 2013-10-06 at 03-06-26. Reason: spelling
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