Thread: Definitive Bad Aftermarket Parts and failure Thread

After installing my place racing motor mounts, turns out they were hitting the back piece frame. All is good now.

Bumping this old thread because I am having issues with Aftermarket injectors on a DE.
This new ser I got was running on 3 cyls when I got it.(#2 not firing)
I have receipts that came with the car from the previous owner that confirm that ther was a full set of NEW AFTERMARKET injectors(259cc) installed not very long ago.
The receipt doesnt say that they are aftermarket,but you can tell by looking at them that they are not OEM Nissan.

So I pulled a old used injector from a parts engine and #2 cyl is back to life...yay!
I threw away the new injector that failed and I have been driving the car since.(about 3-4 weeks)

Today an the way home from work,I lost cyl#1.
Drove home on 3cyls with no problem.
At home I pulled the plug off the #1cyl injector and no change in running.
Pulled another used injector out of the parts motor,and 10 mins total the car is purring like a Kittah!
That leaves #3 and #4 still having the aftermarket ones...I am gonna go ahead and plan on them failing soon.LOL
So...DO NOT waste your money on aftermarket injectors!!!!

Lets get this thread rolling with aftermarket parts failures to help out others.

I forgot about this thread,so the deleted pics from the first post are gone forever,unfotunately.

Always buy OEM clutch cables. always. the aftermarket stretch or snap.

Or hydro that bitch. ..

After market chinese made clutch. The previous owner said the clutch was replaced shortly before he bought the car. He drove it for about 10k and then the clutch went out on him. This is what I found when I dropped the transmission.

^Wow....

Surprised it doesn't say "Made in France". Same thing happened to my Peugeot 306.

ebay control arms from omega auto store. didn't even last 6 months, had to tow home 44 miles.

^^Yikes! Glad you are still with us,after looking at that.

it broke under the most ideal conditions really.

#1 I had JUST put on mud flaps that very same day. this prevented the wheel from catching the bottom of the fender and ripping the whole damn thing out.

#2 the wheel had turned hard left, and caught into the wheel well... ruining my freshly refinished mud flap on the inside. outside looks mint still and im still going to use it. its now my lucky mud flap though oddly enough its the only one I have a spare of

#3 nothing else broke at all. axle didn't even disconnect from the trans, wheel in wheel well prevented the tie rod from bending... though that's a $20 part anyways.

#4 I was doing about 30mph. just a lazy drive in the country side with my girlfriend... went down a hill and slight left over some metal grates for drainage and it felt like something slipped. up and over the next hill at 30mph, hear a loud clunk/pop, the wheel feels like it has a flat, then starts screeching hard. steered it hard right towards the guard rail (in real life super slow motion) to get off to the side of the road before coming to an abrupt stop right on the side.

damage was... broken control arm, dented up fender from where the wheel pushed it towards the door, and I further bent it by opening the door.

all in all... sucks but wasn't too crazy. signed up for AAA and got me a tow. within an hour. happened last night, part will be in by 3:00pm today, will get it done, re-aligned (which will verify if the tie rod got bent or not... thinking not) and I will be back on the road by this evening. ive already fixed the fender enough so the door opens normally. just a few paint chips and few dents and slight misalignment. also not that big of a concern since I was planning on replacing that fender anyways due to a dent in the front. once I get the part, its less than an hour of mild effort to replace.

Firestone lifetime alignment ftw. total cost is about $80 since im going with a duralast part until I pull some oem from the junk and swap my es kit over to it.