That is no rust! Those are holes! 
I'll show what you could do to prevent welding for a very, very long time and even long on hard to reach places. Luckily I found a Nx2000 that was sitting still on a farm for 5 years and came from a country where they don't throw salt on the roads when they are icy. My first Nx1600 was a rust bucket I could throw away 3 years later and no fun to try to prevent it from rusting. My second Nx1600 was totaled and although I believed it was pretty saved from rusting, taking it apart showed I did a half assed job on it. But I bought it with rust on it already and I stopped it for 3 and a half years, I tell you what I use.
I swapped interrior on the Nx2000 and discovered this. The car had absolutely no rust on the outside and the strutowers and wheelwells where good, so I bought it. But this is wat I first discovered.
It ain't hard to fix this, but it is time consuming and you need to take the car apart. But most rust is slow so what I do is work on a small area of the car one by one. Steelbrushes are a must.
I had still some ten year old white rust inhibitor laying around of my first car, so I used white. The brand is Hammerite (Hammerite Worldwide) and it doesn't need primer and when you apply it thick and remove loose rust first, it will slow it down for years to come. Actually I found only 1 spot on my totaled car that needed a repaint after 3 and a half years, the rest didn't show rusting anymore. Hamerrite is heat isolating so don't put it on your brakes (It worked well against rust though) I'm looking in to (home)heater paint from Hammerrite to see if that will be suitable for the brakes.
Motip wax coating, I don't know if Motip is a worldwide brand but any will do. Actually I didn't even do a great job, it can be done better. Working on that.
I suspect this rust is typical for a car that was standing still in a barn with a lot of ventilation and windows in the roof with hot summers.
You even might want to try to be artistic on your car.
This rust obviously came from water that couldn't escape. Also, different metals together have potential differences and the speakerholder metal is beercan quality metal.
This are a few products I used, polish oil (I didn't want to try used motor oil yet, for not knowing the long time results on the metal) Chainspray (which was kinda ok to put some grease on hard to reach places and could be done better, it isn't sticky enough but the small size can made it possible to reach places. The wax coating. I also have Bitumen (asphalt) spray and I just bought ML (which is not so great in my opinion, takes long to dry, doesn't leave a thick layer but it has a great little hose with a nozzle that sprays in different directions, so I'll be removing the interrior at the door and those white caps that hold those 2 plastics that you sometimes kick off easy when getting out the car and throw in lots of chainspray. I've seen this method working for years on somebody elses Datsun.
When you start using oil, it will drip out. Therefore chainspray is a good idea, it leaves black traces and is easy to clean, because it will be comming out quite a while.
When you start painting stuff, keep in mind this can happen.
Keep in mind when you start painting over rust, that you don't miss little places, welds, or poreus rust. Just press the aspergillum(?) <- Bablefish. in the rust, you will ruin the aspergillum so use a cheap one and just throw it away.
Notice the little damage under the interrior and also at the door and fender. Treat this while you can, or else it will show on your paint and that can be costly to repair if you can't weld or do paintjobs like me.
Don't forget to look under easy to reach places. I already cleaned it here, waxed it and also used petroleum jelly (which is safe for rubber) to mate rubber and plastics with the metal. Repeat each year or 2 years. Working on a more reliable solution.
A little dent under the rear light which made the paint chip off what couldn't be seen without remving the rear light first. I already sanded it with a precision tool watch/clock repair shops use to remove corrosion.
The little red spots was rust under the paint when I bought the car, I used precision tools to remove the rust, left the dark hard layer of rust there and put Hammerrite on it (which won't give a clean finish) then Nissan laqcuear and varnish. Didn't rust for 3 and a half years. Be sure to make your work airtite here!
This spot was rusting already when I bought my second Nx1600 and this picture shows what it looked like after 3 and a half years and needs to be painted again.
No rust, just to prevent well know places on the car. Just fast and I will paint the whole wheelwell in 2010, including the struttowers when I put the coilovers in. Probably I'll be putting something over the paint.
Somebody else's car, needed 8 welds and this part needed treatment bad.
I first did my work and then brought the car to a welder, but you should do it the other way around.
Rust from an accident, you can see folding metal, paint chipped off and previous owner didn't look after it (and paintjob companies neither, what you won't see won't be paid)
Won't rust.
I hope you can use this post for your own rust preventing. It is a lot of work, so just get to the really bad places first, steelbrush (pray for no holes), paint, bitumen or asphalt or tectyl (wet places) and hollow section wax or wax coating for dry places. Or just the paint. I recommend inspecting the rust you find, if it can be combined with maintenance or upgrades and only use fast drying products and a couple of more beers.
Might seem a long story (acutally it is), but this is all good pictures I have and there is a lot more you can do to prevent rust. I'll be recording more stuff and post that next year when I get the chance. Also, my story is far from complete.
I'm very sure I can do better and your recommendations are greatly appreciated.
I'll show what you could do to prevent welding for a very, very long time and even long on hard to reach places. Luckily I found a Nx2000 that was sitting still on a farm for 5 years and came from a country where they don't throw salt on the roads when they are icy. My first Nx1600 was a rust bucket I could throw away 3 years later and no fun to try to prevent it from rusting. My second Nx1600 was totaled and although I believed it was pretty saved from rusting, taking it apart showed I did a half assed job on it. But I bought it with rust on it already and I stopped it for 3 and a half years, I tell you what I use.I swapped interrior on the Nx2000 and discovered this. The car had absolutely no rust on the outside and the strutowers and wheelwells where good, so I bought it. But this is wat I first discovered.
It ain't hard to fix this, but it is time consuming and you need to take the car apart. But most rust is slow so what I do is work on a small area of the car one by one. Steelbrushes are a must.
I had still some ten year old white rust inhibitor laying around of my first car, so I used white. The brand is Hammerite (Hammerite Worldwide) and it doesn't need primer and when you apply it thick and remove loose rust first, it will slow it down for years to come. Actually I found only 1 spot on my totaled car that needed a repaint after 3 and a half years, the rest didn't show rusting anymore. Hamerrite is heat isolating so don't put it on your brakes (It worked well against rust though) I'm looking in to (home)heater paint from Hammerrite to see if that will be suitable for the brakes.
Motip wax coating, I don't know if Motip is a worldwide brand but any will do. Actually I didn't even do a great job, it can be done better. Working on that.
I suspect this rust is typical for a car that was standing still in a barn with a lot of ventilation and windows in the roof with hot summers.
You even might want to try to be artistic on your car.
This rust obviously came from water that couldn't escape. Also, different metals together have potential differences and the speakerholder metal is beercan quality metal.
This are a few products I used, polish oil (I didn't want to try used motor oil yet, for not knowing the long time results on the metal) Chainspray (which was kinda ok to put some grease on hard to reach places and could be done better, it isn't sticky enough but the small size can made it possible to reach places. The wax coating. I also have Bitumen (asphalt) spray and I just bought ML (which is not so great in my opinion, takes long to dry, doesn't leave a thick layer but it has a great little hose with a nozzle that sprays in different directions, so I'll be removing the interrior at the door and those white caps that hold those 2 plastics that you sometimes kick off easy when getting out the car and throw in lots of chainspray. I've seen this method working for years on somebody elses Datsun.
When you start using oil, it will drip out. Therefore chainspray is a good idea, it leaves black traces and is easy to clean, because it will be comming out quite a while.
When you start painting stuff, keep in mind this can happen.
Keep in mind when you start painting over rust, that you don't miss little places, welds, or poreus rust. Just press the aspergillum(?) <- Bablefish. in the rust, you will ruin the aspergillum so use a cheap one and just throw it away.
Notice the little damage under the interrior and also at the door and fender. Treat this while you can, or else it will show on your paint and that can be costly to repair if you can't weld or do paintjobs like me.
Don't forget to look under easy to reach places. I already cleaned it here, waxed it and also used petroleum jelly (which is safe for rubber) to mate rubber and plastics with the metal. Repeat each year or 2 years. Working on a more reliable solution.
A little dent under the rear light which made the paint chip off what couldn't be seen without remving the rear light first. I already sanded it with a precision tool watch/clock repair shops use to remove corrosion.
The little red spots was rust under the paint when I bought the car, I used precision tools to remove the rust, left the dark hard layer of rust there and put Hammerrite on it (which won't give a clean finish) then Nissan laqcuear and varnish. Didn't rust for 3 and a half years. Be sure to make your work airtite here!
This spot was rusting already when I bought my second Nx1600 and this picture shows what it looked like after 3 and a half years and needs to be painted again.
No rust, just to prevent well know places on the car. Just fast and I will paint the whole wheelwell in 2010, including the struttowers when I put the coilovers in. Probably I'll be putting something over the paint.
Somebody else's car, needed 8 welds and this part needed treatment bad.
I first did my work and then brought the car to a welder, but you should do it the other way around.
Rust from an accident, you can see folding metal, paint chipped off and previous owner didn't look after it (and paintjob companies neither, what you won't see won't be paid)
Won't rust.
I hope you can use this post for your own rust preventing. It is a lot of work, so just get to the really bad places first, steelbrush (pray for no holes), paint, bitumen or asphalt or tectyl (wet places) and hollow section wax or wax coating for dry places. Or just the paint. I recommend inspecting the rust you find, if it can be combined with maintenance or upgrades and only use fast drying products and a couple of more beers.
Might seem a long story (acutally it is), but this is all good pictures I have and there is a lot more you can do to prevent rust. I'll be recording more stuff and post that next year when I get the chance. Also, my story is far from complete.
I'm very sure I can do better and your recommendations are greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by Ulysses 
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