Thread: B14 '98 200sx se-r

A long while back I came across a thread by Vadim from a Google search and my question about which SR20DET motor to swap in were answered "W11".
The W11 was on my list because it was an SR20DEt motor, not much more reason it was there but after more research I found out that ehe W11 is basically a direct swap for me and really no modifications are needed if you find one with an uncut wiring harness and ECU.

I have a vehicle log HERE

A lot of people ask why don't I just turbo my SR20DE and my answer seems to astound them. I would rather swap in a motor that came "turboed" from the factory that way I don't have to concern myself with things like bigger injectors, internals, rewiring stuff, finding a ECU, etc. I will have a "back-up" motor just in case and peace of mind.

My MAIN question is: What Nissan make(s) and model(s) have interchangeable parts for the W11?

For example if I went to a O' Reiley auto part store what car(s) (make/model) could I tell the salesperson to look under to get parts?

If I can get an answer(s) to that question I won't be trouble here on the forums (not saying I would be trouble anyway) LOL.

I have searched around quite a bit and have only came across info on like KA motors. The Avenir (SR20DET) "silver-top" motor highly resembles the "silver-top" SR20DE motor and from the pictures the only differences I see are the turbo parts, manifold, etc.

ANY and all help will be greatly appreciated. I look forward to interacting and communicating here on the forums










Between Vadim and Kyle and gomba I now have the basis on which to go off of as far as part searching in concerned (thank you ALL).

Looks like I can continue to use my 200SX as a part search reference along with the 91-93 Sentra

The FWD SR20DE motors(1991-1999) have interchangeable parts for the most part with the Bluebird (U12/U13) and Avenir (W10/W11) motors. US accessories all bolt right up as well. The issue with wiring harness is that it is OBD specific, so in your case you would run your stock OBD2 harness on any of the motors, but will need an OBD2 ECU to run it. You can use a stock DET ecu that is OBD1 with a harness adapter, or chip your stock OBD2 ECU.

Brent

Thank you for your reply, the thing about my wiring harness is that I was checking the MAF sensor a while back with a voltmeter and I had it hooked up wrong so I'm thinking that a number of circuits got fried and or fried the sensors attached to them. My check engine light is giving codes for the MAP/BARO, EGRC, throttle position, crankshaft position sensors (and about 5 other codes including the knock sensor). The sensors I listed (outside of the parenthesis) have all been replaced since the voltmeter incident and they will not clear for good, they keep coming back, that's why I'm thinking something is up with my wiring harness. I recently replaced the ECU and still no luck.

The W11 I'm looking to get comes with an uncut wiring harness and ECU do I was planning to remove my current wiring harness and put in the one that comes with the engine.

I think my distributor is going bad, sometimes there is oil inside the distributor cap at the bottom of it and for the past couple of days during idle my car will shut off and or the idle jumps up and down until the engine eventually dies (like it is not getting enough gas).

I put in a 300 LPH fuel pump about a week ago (it wasn't giving me problem then so I'm thinking that the pump isn't the problem but I may put the old one back on to see what happens). Also the fuel tank seal it too big so it doesn't seal the fuel tank completely (there are a couple of them at the salvage yard), a drop of gas will cause it to expand and not fit properly.

I replaced the spark plugs this morning (I didn't check the gap for .035 because I had to get to class).

I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor today because I read in a couple of places that a bad sensor could tell the ECU to push too much fuel into the engine because the temperature reading is off and it didn't affect the idle. While the car is driving it runs fine, it starts acting up and jerking/losing power at lower speeds.

I had a small hole in my header pipe that I patched with "quick steel", I ordered some new headers and manifold and they should be in tomorrow, seems like before I patched the hole up it ran a "little" better.

I don't think my water pump is pumping because the right side hose has no pressure on it at all. The car overheated the other day unfortunately, maybe that played a hand in these problems. The radiator fans don't turn on by themselves so I ran them to a switch that I can turn off and on.

I did a tune up back in like August/September and I have a warranty on the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button so I will try replacing those tomorrow or later today.

I'm just having no luck at all huh? LoL. If I need to post these issues somewhere else please let me know.

Any suggestions are welcomed

EDIT: Hmmm, maybe my MAF is dirty? I to replaced that a few months back, I will clean it with that CFC MAF sensor spray and see what happens.

Edit 2: I sprayed CFC MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF sensor (it still looked brand new when I checked it out), car still wasn't idling right, I changed the timing and changed the idle air speed multiple times, car still didn't idle right. I took all the air intake piping apart, put it back together straight, removed the vacuum hose that connects the valve cover and air intake, plugged the hole and reinstalled my valve cover breather filter, turned the ignition and..... the car fired right up and idled at 750-800 RPM's

The air intake piping wasn't completely even/straight before but the car ran fine maybe recently a small shift set it all off. I feel so good right now