Thread: How to: Adjusting Ignition Timing

You have a basic right? You will need a consult cable and the software. blaZt- OBD software based car cable for Nissan consult and OBDII diagnostics

Thing is, is it really worth the $100+ price tag for something as simple as setting into timing mode .

I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Still cannot get into timing mode ever since I dropped in my new JWT ECU.

Why? I tried retarding the dizzy to get the idle under 1000 (with TPS DISCONNECTED) and it would go under 1000 but never lock in timing mode.

I am at my wits end figuring the rain dance out with my JWT ECU.

This is messed up because I could get into this mode using the same method EASY AS PIE with my G20 ECU.

Yep, still having issues.

I used a consult unit and got into timing mode with my idle under 1000rpm and the timing marks were at 13*, wtf so I bumped it up to 15* and the knock index sensor on my SAFC II freaks out and goes all over the place. (usually it is 25 and under or it will sit at 0) After this, i went back to work with the rain dance!

I can only see where my timing truly is for about one-half of a second after I disconnect the TPS. So this is what I do now for the stupid rain dance.

Warm up the car to normal operating temp.
Disconnect the TPS.
Rev three times to 3000 RPM.
Check timing.
Reconnect TPS.
Take a reading in one-half second.
Disconnect TPS.
Take a reading in one-half second.
Reconnect TPS.
Take a reading in one-half second.
Move dizzy.
Reconnect TPS.
Take a reading in one-half second.
Disconnect TPS.
Take a reading in one-half second.

and so forth. I do not know what else to do. My idle is around 1300 RPM when I disconnect the TPS and the timing marks advance themselves way past the last mark (20*) and give me some high, crazy reading with the high idle RPM.

great write up and pics.

Could it be a bad knock sensor?

Please read my posts in this thread:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/25307-timing-keeps-fluttering-while-trying-set.html

Thanks,
Dave

My neutral switch does work correctly. I know the pulley is not separated from the balancer inside the pulley.

I can mess with the IACV screw and drop my idles down but I can do this so much as to make my timing drop as well. What the hell is the point in moving the dizzy when I can screw the IACV all the way down and make my timing correct this way? (see what I mean)

I am gonna use a Consult unit I think to recheck it.

Used a Consult II unit, checked everything. Everything checked ok. Even ran individual test for IACV and it checked OK.

I went into timing mode, saw that my timing was at 5* degrees BTDC!!! Awesome, that is why the car ran like crap since my last timing debacle. Advanced my dizzy to 15* and that is where it will remain as long as I have a JWT ECU.

Then I went to adjust the IACV valve and used the work support mode for that as well.

Hooray consult II. I think it is time for me to get one of those consult cables and just use my laptop to get the car into timing mode.

Nice, good to hear you got it figured out . I wish I could get my hands on Consult II. Though having a laptop hooked up is the next best thing

I got my desired results, but not in the way I wanted to achieve them. Oh well, like I just said, I got my desired results.

I gotta ignore what my SAFC II knock index says and just believe that this car runs very well. Now I gotta wait another two weeks for the car to re-learn everything since I re-set the self-learn feature. The consult II is the best and also most expensive and pretty hard to get a hold of. I am glad that my friends at the dealership are willing to let me borrow it as often as I have. This past time I tried to make the most of it and did all the tests and diags that I could.

Still, I need to find something that I can do that, entirely, on my own. Such as, ECU talk, blAzt cables, or something else to do simple consult work.

Vadim, what cable did you buy and what software do you use?