Thread: WTB: USDM Low Port DE or UK 10:1 Lowport DE

This Vadim motor thing has turned into a complete song and a dance. Get to the point, land the plane, stick it in the hole, set sail, kiss the bitch already. By the time you are ready to make a choice the VE will be so old school you might start considering some retrofit electric motor setup. At that point you might still be unsure because you will not know if you wanted the battery option or the 300 mile extension cord option.

You dont even know what you want.

Andreas,

I finally can actually afford a VE, but now I have my wife to support and decisions like that also need to go through her, because it is her money too.

Anyway, I don't care how long it takes me to swap in. I rather spend the time looking and researching then jump the gun on something. I'm sorry but I jumped the gun on my car, and it ended up being full of sludge.

Now my coworkers are telling me just sell the POS and get something better. And I don't disagree with them because she has signs of rust and huge dent, and who knows what can/will go out next.

With that in mind, spending $1500+ on a engine for the car that will only last 2 years is not a smart decisions.

Now I know what I want, and I can tell you what I want. I want a lowport DE. UK ones are more desirable because it doesn't have EGR and it has higher compression.


Now since not too many people sell low ports, I'm left with looking for something else. Considering the fact that Lowports cost as much as RR's and RR's cost around $700 shipped, it's almost worth just getting a VE.


But if I can get a lowport for under $500 shipped I would be all over it.

You know we are friends but cry me a river.

Ok what? Not sure what you even mean by that?

Not everyone is made out of money, plus the thing that is holding me back is if I want to get the more torquer DET or just a VE (that is if no lowport is found)

Take it easy it is a joke.

Lol whew, didn't know what you meant by that...

I am shelling out about $500 on new ecu + Real Time. So thats why I'm hesitant of just getting a VE. $2k for 162WHP doesn't sound all that appealing haha.

But I did want to test with DE's with real time and see what I can get...

option: put the se-l back to stock, sell it for $3500, buy a clean no rust $500-$1000 P10 or 4-door B13 shell, put whatever engine in it and break even.

I won't be able to get that much out of her. Bad engine, quarter panel hit.

It's not that bad, rust is mainly on the bolts but not much on the body it self.

I'll survive more, but it's just a daily, so no need to shell out too much money at it...

^I'm cool with Vadim to, but this is true. Get a VE or like Keo said, good luck finding a UK 10.1 lowport!



^You said you didn't want a DET for a daily I thought?



^Just do what I"m going to do in about two years. Get a 2002 G20 and drive it in to the wind. You can even put kids in the back and they will sing the shift_fast song with you.



^So you saying your car only has 2 years before it turns in to dust? Interesting.......

I didn't want a DET for daily driving because I've had too many people tell me that it's just too much to worry about. And I believe it, more constant oil changes, etc.

I've also had people tell me that Bluebirds and Avenirs came out of stock cars so there shouldn't be any problem with DDing them.

So the way it seems is, If I can't find a lowport thats pretty cheap and doesn't have to many miles, I'll stick to VE (just to make my daily life simpler).

No I hope the car doesn't fall apart in 2 years, but that was just an exaduration to prove a point