Thread: Can anyone help repin an ecu??

Well, bottom line is; I am looking to repin a 98 SE-R ecu to a 95-97 OBD 2 as per JWT wiring directions.

The only issue: As try as we may, we just could not get the pin of the the ecu harness. It took me and my friend 2 hours of wiggling, prying, etc, only to have the hole become ob-longed and we decided at that point, it would be best to just leave it be and seek some help.

Basically need to repin to prevent the CEL for EGR and (rear) O2 sensor in order to pass state and emissions inspections.

Any ideas of help would be greatly appreciated. Its the only thing holding us back from getting on the road.

I can get you a case of beer of whatever as its only 4-6 pins total. The car is driveable, but the tags are dead, so unfortunately bringing the car somewhere is out of the question at this point

Thanks much.

I never repinned the ecu. I cut and splice the wires of the harness that needed to be changed. Seemed to work just fine.

^^ do that.

Get yourself a pair of these exact shape pliers and you'll be golden. They are extra long and extra thin. They can be found at Sears at least, and a few other places and can be ordered online. It's possible you may be able to make due with a long, thin, straight pick as well. You might be able to make due with a thick paper clip but that might be tough going. You need to push a long, thin object into the back of the pin (I believe) to release the pin while pulling in the opposite direction to pull the pin out of the back of the harness connector. When you remove the pin, the pliers will still be in the pin. They need to come out with the pin. It's not hard, you just need the right tool and method.

Thanks for the response guys.

Hey Cliff, you know, we thought of that, but for some odd reason, we were thinking that a wire needed to be put back into the ecu in order for it to not throw any codes (or atleast for the ecu to recognize it).........

I may need to look into this again.

And thanks Ben for that suggestion!! I may pick up a pair on the way to work on it.

Thanks.

Chris?

One of the pins needs to be connected where there is no previous wire, so splicing would not be an option there. I think its pin 111.

We were coming at the pin from the front of the connector (the side that connects to the ECU) trying to push the pin out the back while also pulling the wire back out of the connector. According to Ben, we should have been working the pin from the rear of the connector, and still trying to pull the wire back.

Absolutely correct. The part I wasn't 100% sure on was if you should put the tool into the back of one half of the pin, or into the back of the plug slightly above or below the pin into an access hole.

I'm not sure about the sr20 wiring harness but I'm actually in the process of wiring a 1jz into a cressida and from what i've heard, most connectors are similar.

From my experiences with the TOYOTA engine harness, there was a central locking tab across the top of the ecu connector plug that had to be lifted first. When this was done, I slid one of those small eye glass flat head screwdrivers into the front of the plug (side that connects to the ecu) and pryed up a small locking tab also holding the pin. This allowed the pin to slide right out the back.

Sorry if nissan and toyota connector s are completely different and this just completely wasted your time.

nope, you're absolutely right pwr. once you take that tab off, pins should come out by hand.

We did pry the central locking tab up, but only about 2mm. It seemed to catch there and not want to go any further. We didn't apply a lot of force though for fear of breaking it.