Thread: Mazworx QR 6spd swap kits

It's pretty sweet. I started with an '03, but got a hold of an '04 at the last minute. When I swapped her over I also went with the Maxima final, so the gearing is really close to what it used to be (I had a '98 open box tranny before). I love the HLSD, and 6th gear is a blessing. Nothing like rolling down the freeway at 80mph and being below 3000 rpms.



You are correct, it's a JWT S15/P12 20v fly (Part #LSR20-6SPD0). And Z33 as in VQ35DE 250mm clutch setup. I went with an ACT 6 puck sprung HD kit. It took almost a month to get use to it and the hydro clutch setup.

I know for a fact the VG30DE and DETT PP will not fit/work (at least with the JWT fly). I use Z32 clutch setups on my RB26 and the PP is far too tall/thick (trust me; I checked with one of my spare ACT kits I had on the shelf). You need to get a Z33 setup if you are using the JWT fly; it's about 7mm thinner.

Thank you Zer099 ive been asking that question for several days
I asked VG30dett because Miko says in the HOW TO

I pm'ed him to ask him, but never got an answer.

I don't appreciate people referring to Andreas as an A-hole. Keep this thread on topic, Dre maybe came off the wrong way because he is tired of saying things over and over. With all he does for this community, give him a break. There is no reason to get upset over this.

So what we need to know for this setup is:

S15 JWT lightweight flywheel. A 350Z clutch.

Now with a custom flywheel you may be able to use the Z32 clutch?

Either way, the tooth count on the fly needs to be 108 or the CEL will illuminate for us OBD2 guys.

I never called him an A-hole, I said he was being one. There is a difference. There is a lot of things he comes off wrong about and also has given false information.

BahamasSR20 would know what im talking about. As everyone told him including Andreas that he would need to pull the front cover/oil pump off to retime his motor because he didnt mark the chain when he took the head off. This was dead false info as I never mark my chain when taking the head off and have never had my timing chain off when putting it back together.

I helped Bahamas over the phone time his motor and bam, came out perfect. So yeah he had multiple people say it couldnt be done which included Andreas.

Im not discrediting him as he has done a lot for the community but he isnt always right. And the same goes for this situation more than likely. And the way he comes off sometimes is like he thinks that way. I have no problem admiting im wrong or correcting myself if i give false info. Andreas on the other hand is not that way.

I generally dont like talking to you for many reasons but you jump onto things without knowing the reason for the answers.

You see if you have a SR20VE oil pump the chain will not and can not slip because of the design. So you can drop the chain in any position without marking it and put it back together by rotating the bottom end and holding the chain in your hand.

The problem is with the SR20DEs and SR20DET oil pumps. They have little tabs on the bottom that break off very easily and the chain can and will skip from the bottom, so I take off the pump to make sure everything is on right. If it is a VE pump I will just move ahead with what I am doing just the way you do it.

When you give advise over the phone and the person ****s up their motor you can go back to your little world after you hang up, with no care what so ever. I always work on the side of being safe and will not damage anyones motor. So I give safe advise on that subjecyt because of the pump he has.

No need to go one further..........

Oh i can see what your saying about someone damaging their motor. You dont here is the thing with the timing. Its not hard and its pretty straight forward. You dont have to put the links back to where they belong. You can put the crank at TDC assuming your pulley is in good condition and showing correct timing and put your exhaust cam with the dowel pin pointing straight up at the 12 oclock position (this is very noticable if its even one tooth off) and then count 20 pins over from your dot on the exhaust cam gear and set your intake cam.

To make sure rotate the motor over after installing and releasing the tensioner, two revolutions and double check that everything comes back into line. Again absolutely noticable if even one tooth off on the gears. count your pins and make sure your exhaust dowel is straight up. If its even looks slightly off then it probably is so redo it until it lines up. Again i did this for Bahamas over the phone and told him if you have any doubts then its probably off. But he contacted me back saying it all looked great and which it was.

Even IF he had one cam off one tooth it would not damage his motor, It would run like crap especially since your exhaust cam would be the main one off and timing would be all out of wack.

Ive done this soo many times and never mark my chain. DE, DET's, VE's, doesnt matter. Its all the same.

Again i see what your saying about not wanting to risk someone blaming you for a motor going bad but in the case of timing the motor there is not a big chance of someone screwing up with those directions unless they are just stupid. Again not something that is your fault. He simply asked if it could be done any other way and i told him yes and walked him through.

He just told me that you and a couple others said there is no way for it to be done without taking the cover off. Which is false.

Im done.

Exactly........

Soo has this been tested on a track, or tried with high revs shifting???

any word on the turbo flywheel and clutch set up for mazworxs? thanks