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Thread: How To: P11 JDM Center Console

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Posts: 1-4 of 4
2013-04-26 13:22:00
#1
How To: P11 JDM Center Console
How to Install a JDM Center Console with much better cup holders into your P11


I've been wanting new cup holders ever since I bought this car. Modding the OEM cup holder did help me bandaid the need for better cup holders, but with 6 speed swap that useless cup holder becomes even more useless.

USDM vs JDM Center Consoles



No sound deadening on the JDM one, JDM one is about 1lb lighter overall. I feel like this is because of cheaper/weaker plastic being used.


Cuby hole is bigger then stock one and more useful now, since there is no useless (second) cup holder taking up that space.


Obviously handbrakes changed too


Cables too


JDM shifter surround has an ashtray (that was well used in my case)


The difference in shifter boots is astounding. JDM one feels cheaper then the SE-L one I used to have, while P11 one is actually very nice and is sound deadened too.


You can use the USDM boot in the JDM surround.



I wasn't planning on doing the console swap until way later, but my carpet was out (for 6 speed modding), and I was adding sound deadening to the floor anyway.



Handbrake Cable
Removed the shifter and now could get to the handbrake cable.



While my downpipe is off, it was easy to drop the heat shields (5" resonator doesn't leave much room in there).


From there on in I could access the cable and unhook it.


Big thing is, the JDM cable bracket is a good bit smaller, and has smaller holes. Thus they need to be drilled out


Find a bit that fits into the USDM bracket and then use that to drill out the JDM one.


There are little slots on each end, this is to get the rear cables into the bracket. JDM slits are 4.8mm while USDM one is 8mm, you will need to grind them out.


Notice how the bracket necks down too, this will need to be expanded back out.


Hammer and a chisel worked for me




The cable is 1-2" too long, if you don't do anything about it, your handbrake wont engage enough.


Here is what USDM bracket looks like for reference, in both of these comparisons the handbrake is lowered and the nut is on the last threads.


I spent a few days trying to figure out a way to better fix this, but in the end just settled for simply and cheap cable clamps.


Mocking it up:



Next steps will vary depending on how you want to route the cable.

USDM boot ontop, JDM on bottom


If you go with using USDM brackets, this is how it will look like all installed



This will work but I don't like how the cable is touching the metal (through rubber boot)



Also do note the cable to handbrake clearance



JDM does have a different way to route the cable. They used a tube that would protect the cable from hitting any sharp spots and cut overtime.


Mocking it up


Had to expand some holes on the stock bracket.


Don't forget the shorter JDM boot


Also made a slit in the stock usdm bracket to be able to get the cable out easier.


I will eventually drill and bolt the bracket down, for now it seems to be working just fine though.


The cable now sits a little lower on the handbrake itself too

Last edited by Vadim on 2014-09-08 at 15-05-26.
2013-04-26 13:48:00
#2
Handbrake Bracket Installation

Here is what it's supposed to look like:


Mocked it up and drilled one hole


After that made sure everything fit well, you want to make sure you have the hand brake bracket on correct before you spend the time drilling and or welding.


Drilled 4 holes, I didn't see the need for using more then that really. Alternatively you can weld the bracket on, I prefer the removeability though.


I used the stock spot weld holes as my base for picking which holes to drill.


Fresh coat of paint to prevent rust



Bolted everything up




Had to trim the plastic on the handbrake too, it was digging into the wiring harness. This needs to be done on both sides of the handbrake




Installed the carpet, looks like it belongs there now!




Decided to pull the sound deadening and attach it to the JDM console, I don't think it's worth the effort, but I haven't driven the car yet!


Used aluminum tape to attach it, which doesn't seem to hold well at all. At least the aluminum tape will provide a better sound deadening barrier.


Fits like a glove


6 shifter speed cables are getting in the way, along with the mounting holes being misaligned.


Dremelled off the plastic bar and drilled new mounting holes (This is needed for 6 speed only, stock shifter does not require you to dremel the plastic bar off).




The hardest part of the install, attach the two rear screws that fit perfectly into the stock bracket.
Last edited by Vadim on 2014-09-08 at 15-04-47.
2013-04-26 14:56:14
#3
Nice write up Man, looks 100 times better plus CUP HOLDERS !!!
2013-04-26 15:28:43
#4
Indeed, I will say that the armrest is cheaper feeling (plastic not leather), but it's also .5-1" shorter thus elbow doesn't rest on it as well. I will just keep my out out for those JDM double din arm rests!
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