Install a 1995-99 A32 Maxima throttle cable in a B13 with a Lowport, or Highport.
The reason I chose this cable is because it's short (Like we all want), and usually readily available in the junk yard. In my area there's plenty of them. You cant use a cable from a J30 1989-94 Maxima, as they are longer than our B13 cables.
This is an intermediate modification at most, few tools, and skills required. Here's a small list of tools, and parts.
Tools:
1. 2 14mm wrenches
2. 2 pair of pliers (Channel locks, and Lineman's pliers)
3. 1 1/4" ratchet with a 6" extension
4. 1 1/4" 10mm socket
5. Knife, or box cutter
6. Dremel with a carbide cutting burr
7. Drill with a 7/32nd-1/4" drill bit
Parts:
1. 1 A32 Max throttle cable
2. 1 B13 throttle cable
3. 1 Gasket from the B13 cable that sandwiches to the firewall
4. 1 3" piece of 3/4" split wire loom
5. 2 longer bolts to replace the ones you took out of the throttle cable bracket under the dash. I used 2 1.5" bolts from an old IACV unit.
6. 2 washers about 5/8" wide. I used some from my old highport valve cover grommets.
Here's a size comparison of the 2 cables:
Lets get started removing the old cable:
After you've gathered your parts and tools the throttle cable needs to be removed. Really simple task here.
All you need to do now is to pull the cable out of the engine bay through the hole in the firewall. Taking the old cable out literally takes less than 5 minutes. This is the same process, and time frame if you're getting a used Maxima cable from the junk yard.
Prepping the new cable, and old bracket for installation:
B13 cable
Cut the cable like this with your lineman's pliers, or tin snips. Then set the bracket aside. Don't use regular wire cutters, as you will screw up the edges. This cable is pretty tough.
You need to save this gasket from the B13 cable as well. It just pulls right off. You can throw the rest in the trash now.
Done with the B13 for now. On to the A32 cable. You just need to lightly pry the bracket off. No breaking stuff here.
Now you're left with this.
You need to break these nipples off like so.
Then put them back into the A32 cable bushing for the structural support they were originally there for.
This is the A32 cable next to the B13 bracket. The cable is not quite going to fit through that tiny hole.
So, hold the brackets together, and make your mark.
Now I'm sure you'll figure it out, but I reamed out the hole like this with a drill, and finished with a dremel. It doesn't need to be perfect, but only big enough to fit the cable through.
You need to trim the edges of the A32 bushing with a knife to get it to seat into the B13 bracket properly.
When you're done with that thread the cable through the bracket like so. Now it fits neatly into the recess of the bracket.
Now thread that gasket, that you saved earlier, over the long side of the cable, so that it's on the back of the bracket. It's a stretch, but it will make it over the lock nuts without having to cut it.
Installation of the new cable:
Now you're ready to install your A32-B13 hybrid cable. It's just a reverse of what you did, under the dash, to remove the old one. You'll need a little longer bolts like these. They were a little too long, but still worked. They only need to be about 3/8" longer than the old ones.
Re-routing the new cable. Get it started in this general direction in between the fire wall and mani.
For my lowport I pulled it through this hole in between intake runners 3, and 4. It's that little hole above the injector harness. You can see the end of the cable poking through, but I had to keep fishing it a little to get it through.
If you have cruise, then you can rout that cable through the same spot as well, like I did.
For added heat, and abrasion resistance, I slid a short piece of 3/4" wire loom over the cables, and into the hole.
Now almost finished. You can see here how the cable bracket on my mani is slotted. I had to do this, previously, when I installed my Thermoblok spacers, which included a throttle body spacer. My bracket needed to move up about 5/16" with just that, then this cable is just a tad shorter than the B13, so it needed to move up another 5/16", and with the lock nuts adjusted all the way out. Without the Thermoblok throttle body spacer, you may not have to slot your cable bracket, as you may have enough adjustment. Be prepared to just in case, and if you do it's really not too hard.
For a Highport you just need to move your throttle cable bracket, on the mani, forward one bolt hole. You will only have one bolt holding it, but this is what my buddy did on his, and it worked out fine with the adjustment on the cable.
Well, that about wraps this install up, enjoy!
OLD:
New
This is an intermediate modification at most, few tools, and skills required. Here's a small list of tools, and parts.
Tools:
1. 2 14mm wrenches
2. 2 pair of pliers (Channel locks, and Lineman's pliers)
3. 1 1/4" ratchet with a 6" extension
4. 1 1/4" 10mm socket
5. Knife, or box cutter
6. Dremel with a carbide cutting burr
7. Drill with a 7/32nd-1/4" drill bit
Parts:
1. 1 A32 Max throttle cable
2. 1 B13 throttle cable
3. 1 Gasket from the B13 cable that sandwiches to the firewall
4. 1 3" piece of 3/4" split wire loom
5. 2 longer bolts to replace the ones you took out of the throttle cable bracket under the dash. I used 2 1.5" bolts from an old IACV unit.
6. 2 washers about 5/8" wide. I used some from my old highport valve cover grommets.
Here's a size comparison of the 2 cables:
Lets get started removing the old cable:
After you've gathered your parts and tools the throttle cable needs to be removed. Really simple task here.
All you need to do now is to pull the cable out of the engine bay through the hole in the firewall. Taking the old cable out literally takes less than 5 minutes. This is the same process, and time frame if you're getting a used Maxima cable from the junk yard.
Prepping the new cable, and old bracket for installation:
B13 cable
Cut the cable like this with your lineman's pliers, or tin snips. Then set the bracket aside. Don't use regular wire cutters, as you will screw up the edges. This cable is pretty tough.
You need to save this gasket from the B13 cable as well. It just pulls right off. You can throw the rest in the trash now.
Done with the B13 for now. On to the A32 cable. You just need to lightly pry the bracket off. No breaking stuff here.
Now you're left with this.
You need to break these nipples off like so.
Then put them back into the A32 cable bushing for the structural support they were originally there for.
This is the A32 cable next to the B13 bracket. The cable is not quite going to fit through that tiny hole.
So, hold the brackets together, and make your mark.
Now I'm sure you'll figure it out, but I reamed out the hole like this with a drill, and finished with a dremel. It doesn't need to be perfect, but only big enough to fit the cable through.
You need to trim the edges of the A32 bushing with a knife to get it to seat into the B13 bracket properly.
When you're done with that thread the cable through the bracket like so. Now it fits neatly into the recess of the bracket.
Now thread that gasket, that you saved earlier, over the long side of the cable, so that it's on the back of the bracket. It's a stretch, but it will make it over the lock nuts without having to cut it.
Installation of the new cable:
Now you're ready to install your A32-B13 hybrid cable. It's just a reverse of what you did, under the dash, to remove the old one. You'll need a little longer bolts like these. They were a little too long, but still worked. They only need to be about 3/8" longer than the old ones.
Re-routing the new cable. Get it started in this general direction in between the fire wall and mani.
For my lowport I pulled it through this hole in between intake runners 3, and 4. It's that little hole above the injector harness. You can see the end of the cable poking through, but I had to keep fishing it a little to get it through.
If you have cruise, then you can rout that cable through the same spot as well, like I did.
For added heat, and abrasion resistance, I slid a short piece of 3/4" wire loom over the cables, and into the hole.
Now almost finished. You can see here how the cable bracket on my mani is slotted. I had to do this, previously, when I installed my Thermoblok spacers, which included a throttle body spacer. My bracket needed to move up about 5/16" with just that, then this cable is just a tad shorter than the B13, so it needed to move up another 5/16", and with the lock nuts adjusted all the way out. Without the Thermoblok throttle body spacer, you may not have to slot your cable bracket, as you may have enough adjustment. Be prepared to just in case, and if you do it's really not too hard.
For a Highport you just need to move your throttle cable bracket, on the mani, forward one bolt hole. You will only have one bolt holding it, but this is what my buddy did on his, and it worked out fine with the adjustment on the cable.
Well, that about wraps this install up, enjoy!
OLD:
New
Last edited by tswii
on 2011-09-17
at 02-24-12.
Be the first to like this post.
Originally Posted by Redline
Back to top
