Fog Light Rewire for 1993-1994 SE-R.
DISCLAIMER: I will in no way be responsible for you frying your electrical system. Please view this as a guide.
After some searching I could not find a write-up for a fog light rewire for '93-'94 SE-R's. The majority of credit goes Bryant Woo who originally wrote this write-up for his 1996 200SX SE-R and can be found HERE.
The method I used is virtually identical, but has been updated to B13 wiring circuits with wire color corrections. This write up MAY work for 1991-1992 SE-R's, but I would need someone to verify the fog light relay location and wire colors are the same before continuing.
Keep in mind these FSM diagrams are for '94, but I can confirm 1993 is identical.
First off we have our color diagram to avoid confusion.
Now locate your fog lamp relay adjacent to the battery.
I found it easier to take off the two (2), 10mm nuts attaching the relay block to the battery tray to gain access to the underside of the panel. I even opted to go so far as removing the battery completely. The extra room really comes in handy when taping, splicing, crimping, etc.
*note - If you do pull the battery out. Locate the large wiring harness coming from the fuse block, if you take notice to it's routing you can actually get it over into the battery tray as the wire harness comes from just behind the drivers side headlight.
Once you gain access you can remove the bottom portion of the relay box case and cut/slit the electrical tape and wire loom back to have a longer piece of wire to work with. * just be sure to tape/seal it back up after completion.
You should have 4 wires coming from the fog lamp relay.
1. Light Green (power to/from fogs)
2. Green/Orange (power to/from main harness)
3. Red/Yellow (power from headlight switch)
4. Orange (main power from battery)
The wire we want to splice is (#3- Red/Yellow 'power from headlight switch')
The reason we want to splice into this wire (as explained in Bryant's tutorial) is that we ONLY want to 'trick' the relay. When the headlights are on low-beam, the switch sends power to the fog light relay & allows the relay to function by sending electricity to the remaining components. By splicing this wire to a constant 12v power- the switch is bypassed and the relay is free to function provided at least the marker lamps are on (which is what we'll be tapping into)
From what you've read above it should be apparent that you should splice into the red/yellow wire, and cap the end coming from the headlight switch.
We now need to take the wire coming from the relay and give it some POWAH!
Bryant Woo suggests 16awg wire to connect the fog lamp wire to the power wire we'll be tapping into on the corner light. That is perfectly acceptable. However, because Nissan used 18awg for the stock wires, you may find it easier to stick with the thinner gauge when using butt/crimp connectors.
Because our fog lamp relay is placed by the battery and not the power steering reservoir, I found it easier to tap into the DRIVERS SIDE corner light rather than the Passengers. Because we are doing this, one of the wire's will change color from side to side (the power wire for the blinker) although that does not matter to us as we won't be using it.
The black wire is your ground and the green/black wire (not pictured in that diagram) is the power from your blinker. The passenger side will be the same with the exception of the blinker wire being green and yellow.
As you can see from the diagram the power wire for both sides is still going to be the RED/BLUE wire. Tap into it and run it to your loose wire.
Be sure to leave enough slack so you can route the wires neatly and out of harms way- I suggest zip ties. I cut about 40" of wire. After the connection at the relay box was secured and you put it back in place your wire should be coming out of the main harness hole like the rest of the wires on the block. From there you can 'dry fit' the wire where you want it. (I chose below/behind the battery tray and zip tied along the way- as well as going underneath the airbox (if applicable).
Finally, tap into your corner light wiring.
And I can't stress this enough: For all connections made be sure to use butt connectors or solder and finish with heat shrink or a good (3M) electrical tape.
That's it! You can now control your foglights as long as the parking lights are on. Enjoy.
After some searching I could not find a write-up for a fog light rewire for '93-'94 SE-R's. The majority of credit goes Bryant Woo who originally wrote this write-up for his 1996 200SX SE-R and can be found HERE.
The method I used is virtually identical, but has been updated to B13 wiring circuits with wire color corrections. This write up MAY work for 1991-1992 SE-R's, but I would need someone to verify the fog light relay location and wire colors are the same before continuing.
Keep in mind these FSM diagrams are for '94, but I can confirm 1993 is identical.
First off we have our color diagram to avoid confusion.
Now locate your fog lamp relay adjacent to the battery.
I found it easier to take off the two (2), 10mm nuts attaching the relay block to the battery tray to gain access to the underside of the panel. I even opted to go so far as removing the battery completely. The extra room really comes in handy when taping, splicing, crimping, etc.
*note - If you do pull the battery out. Locate the large wiring harness coming from the fuse block, if you take notice to it's routing you can actually get it over into the battery tray as the wire harness comes from just behind the drivers side headlight.
Once you gain access you can remove the bottom portion of the relay box case and cut/slit the electrical tape and wire loom back to have a longer piece of wire to work with. * just be sure to tape/seal it back up after completion.
You should have 4 wires coming from the fog lamp relay.
1. Light Green (power to/from fogs)
2. Green/Orange (power to/from main harness)
3. Red/Yellow (power from headlight switch)
4. Orange (main power from battery)
The wire we want to splice is (#3- Red/Yellow 'power from headlight switch')
The reason we want to splice into this wire (as explained in Bryant's tutorial) is that we ONLY want to 'trick' the relay. When the headlights are on low-beam, the switch sends power to the fog light relay & allows the relay to function by sending electricity to the remaining components. By splicing this wire to a constant 12v power- the switch is bypassed and the relay is free to function provided at least the marker lamps are on (which is what we'll be tapping into)
From what you've read above it should be apparent that you should splice into the red/yellow wire, and cap the end coming from the headlight switch.
We now need to take the wire coming from the relay and give it some POWAH!
Bryant Woo suggests 16awg wire to connect the fog lamp wire to the power wire we'll be tapping into on the corner light. That is perfectly acceptable. However, because Nissan used 18awg for the stock wires, you may find it easier to stick with the thinner gauge when using butt/crimp connectors.
Because our fog lamp relay is placed by the battery and not the power steering reservoir, I found it easier to tap into the DRIVERS SIDE corner light rather than the Passengers. Because we are doing this, one of the wire's will change color from side to side (the power wire for the blinker) although that does not matter to us as we won't be using it.
The black wire is your ground and the green/black wire (not pictured in that diagram) is the power from your blinker. The passenger side will be the same with the exception of the blinker wire being green and yellow.
As you can see from the diagram the power wire for both sides is still going to be the RED/BLUE wire. Tap into it and run it to your loose wire.
Be sure to leave enough slack so you can route the wires neatly and out of harms way- I suggest zip ties. I cut about 40" of wire. After the connection at the relay box was secured and you put it back in place your wire should be coming out of the main harness hole like the rest of the wires on the block. From there you can 'dry fit' the wire where you want it. (I chose below/behind the battery tray and zip tied along the way- as well as going underneath the airbox (if applicable).
Finally, tap into your corner light wiring.
And I can't stress this enough: For all connections made be sure to use butt connectors or solder and finish with heat shrink or a good (3M) electrical tape.
That's it! You can now control your foglights as long as the parking lights are on. Enjoy.
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Originally Posted by petelite 
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