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Thread: HOW TO: Budget aftermarket steering wheel install!

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Posts: 1-10 of 10
2009-08-17 20:04:22
#1
HOW TO: Budget aftermarket steering wheel install!
Suppose you are tired of that stock wheel and want something smaller diameter and better looking. Maybe you've already got a spare wheel (like I did) and have no way to attach it short of buying an expensive setup for a hub adapter. Note, if you are looking at a Grant steering wheel, this how to is useless because you could just use the Grant hub directly (which is cheap!).

I found a Nardi wheel around my house that I've had for a long time but forgot about. Decided it was a good time to throw it on my car. But wait, what? The only way to adapt it was to get a MOMO or Grant hub adapter and then buy an adapter for the wheel pattern? Blasphemy! This was a total of at least $75 to create the hub needed for the wheel to get on those factory splines.

However, I found that a pure Grant hub for the B13 could be gotten at Advance Auto for just $21! Now, the Grant hub adapter (shown below) has a 3 bolt pattern meant for Grant steering wheels. That piece (which contains the splines matched to our shaft) is shown in the lower right of the photo.



Now, since my Nardi wheel has a larger diameter, 6 bolt pattern, it obviously wasn't going to mate up too well! This is where the key comes in. The aftermarket wheel to hub adapters are just a thick plate with the 6 bolt pattern and the 3 bolt pattern on it, so you just stick it onto the grant hub and you are all set. But, take a look at the black hub cover in the upper left of the picture! It's made of steel and is pretty strong (torsionally speaking of course) because of its shape.

So I got to thinking, why not use that as the adapter by drilling another set of holes into it to match the steering wheel? I did just that! I centered the wheel ontop of that cover and clamped it down. I then drilled through the wheel holes straight through the cover so bolts could be inserted as shown below.





I did this for all 6 holes and attached the hub.





I excitedly went to attach it to the car, when I noticed a major issue! It's a little hard to see in the picture, but if you take a look at the blinker and wiper arms on the column, you'll see they are just about hitting the wheel! That makes for some difficult turning.



Not to be defeated by something after coming this far, I found a perfect solution. I ran up to the hardware store and got some longer bolts and steel spacers as shown below. I simply inserted them between the hub cover and the wheel to extend it outwards about 2 inches.

NOTE: It is a good idea to use locktite on the nuts! I totally forgot about it, so I'm hoping they'll stay tight because of the spacer compression (I put a good amount of torque on them). But I'm still a little worried constant wheel torsion might slowly loosen them up. If that happens, I will just pull it all off again and locktite them.







Now, when it came time to put the wheel on, it was almost the perfect distance out (nearly identical to the location of the stock wheel) and there was now room for the horn button to be installed which really cleaned up the look. Here's what the before and after pics look like!





The total cost of this project was the hub adapter ($21) and the hardware ($8). Assuming you have the tools and rent the steering wheel puller needed to remove the OEM wheel, you now have a complete hub adapter for under $30! I believe this approach would work with the MOMO and Sparco wheels as well because they also run the 6 bolt patterns frequently (not identical to the Nardi pattern, but close enough that the same method should work). I don't have any to measure though so I can't tell you for sure.

As for the OEM wheel removal, it's very simple (I did not have airbags, but I don't know if any of the SE-R's did or whether the 200's do. Consult your FSM if you do!). Just pop the cover off the wheel with a screw driver (on the B13 there is a phillips screw you need to remove. You'll see it through a hole on the underside of the wheel. Sorry, didn't think to get pics of that! Then, you simply remove the wheel nut (19 mm socket) and use the wheel puller to pull it off. That easy!
2009-08-19 02:39:44
#2
very nice work
2009-08-19 13:05:59
#3
Just a note on steering wheel removal. On B14's you need a T50H to remove the airbag.
2009-08-19 17:58:19
#4
Originally Posted by Joekuh
Just a note on steering wheel removal. On B14's you need a T50H to remove the airbag.


What is a T50H??
2009-08-20 01:54:17
#5
t-50 torx bit
2009-08-26 06:03:33
#6
Note: I realized after a week or so that the black steering wheel cover has a tendency to flex if you torque on the wheel forward and backwards. This can create an akward feeling, but in all reality doesn't change the steering characteristics. As soon as I have a chance, I'm going to look into making myself a thicker adapter out of aluminum to get rid of that issue. But right now it looks like unless you have a way to re-enforce that cover you will have to deal with a wheel that likes to flex in the front/back directions. Not terribly bad, you only notice it once in a while. Just adding this note to the thread.
2010-01-31 19:44:48
#7
Alternative Easy Install Wheel - R32 GT-R for B13, NX
An alternative suggestion at least for the B13 is bolting up the GTi-R or R32 Skyline GT-R wheel. You can find them in the low $200's range shipped, just have to be patient. They bolt right on w/o any adapter, put the wheel IMHO in a great position, and are strong as hell, esp. the GT-R wheel. The price might not fit everyone's definition of budget but a far easier install than a Momo or Sparco, and a great fit for the car. B13 once you remove the cover, etc. & center nut (no air bag) all you have to do is wiggle the wheel hard and it will come off - no puller needed.

GT-S wheel is same just different horn. Here GT-S horn on GT-R sourced wheel. Ironically these are still pretty available because JDM GT-R owners want to upgrade their wheel, lol!











2011-02-25 21:54:44
#8
Found this thread using Google and looking up steering wheel stuff.

Took me a while to even realize what forum I was on! =P

Don't mind the bump from the grave. I'm just trying to find out if the Grant GT wheel fits the Momo bolt pattern. I'm finding out they don't? We need a thread that has all the common wheels and bolt patterns listed.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2011-02-25 at 21-57-52.
2011-02-26 05:22:51
#9
Nissan OEM FTW!
Still liking the lack of complexity bolting up better than B13 OEM Wheels. My second B13 got the GTi-R wheel, full leather, working horn and turn signals, perfect fit, one bolt install. Tough to beat when airbags are not an issue.



2011-02-26 05:26:29
#10
Originally Posted by Danja

As for the OEM wheel removal, it's very simple (I did not have airbags, but I don't know if any of the SE-R's did or whether the 200's do. Consult your FSM if you do!). Just pop the cover off the wheel with a screw driver (on the B13 there is a phillips screw you need to remove. You'll see it through a hole on the underside of the wheel. Sorry, didn't think to get pics of that! Then, you simply remove the wheel nut (19 mm socket) and use the wheel puller to pull it off. That easy!


Puller optional. I've managed 3 off just grabbing the sides an rocking front to back, once you've got the bond at the splines loosened, they slide right off. Also need of course to disconnect the horn wires. Last install they just matched right up.
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