Thread: Crank Case Ventilation fully explained. (Naturally aspirated edition.)

You love the shower hose everywhere.

I'll shower you.






































With kisses.

So if you are dropping a RR engine in your car and plan to use the non RR valve cover that's a bad idea?

I would consider the regular DE valve cover and associated factory catch can an adequate solution but a bit of a downgrade from the RR or VE solution mainly due to aesthetics but also in function.

That sounds like it'd suck quite a lot, would it have too much vacuum or not? Also could you run the pump continuously or would it have to be turned off for a while? Ben in you're diagrams on the first page you still have the pcv line connected to the plenum with the air pump, could you not get rid of this with the pump?

For some reason I laughed.

No way. An electric pump isn't going to ever draw enough power to create too much vacuum. The belt driven pumps can if done incorrectly and obviously the engine itself creates way too much vacuum to apply to the crank case unrestricted, but the electric pumps are going to be strong enough to get the job done well while also being weak enough to avoid having to worry about over-scavenging oil or the crank case.

From what I'm reading most of these cheaper pumps are taken from cars where they were used to inject fresh air into the exhaust stream for emissions reasons. The pumps are not designed to run continuously but some people have done it with success. Also most of these pumps have sound deadening foam inside you will want to remove to prevent overheating of the pump. Most people run the pump only during WOT or have them set with a pressure switch to turn on at 1 or 2 psi in the case of turbo engines. I'd rather see the pump on more than that, but obviously if you employ one of these control schemes for the pump (to prevent running it continuously) you'll want to retain the PCV valve and plumbing.

See above. If you run the bump continuously you can remove the PCV side of things too. If you only run it at WOT or in boost or something like that then you'll still want the PCV side of things to remain to get the job done during idle and cruising.

Thanks ben, i've found some pumps on ebay which look like they'll do the job, which one of these do you think would be best
1)AC DELCO PUMP AIR/SMOG INJECTION 215-133 GM 94-96: eBay Motors (item 230484216041 end time Nov-02-10 19:50:34 PDT)
2)NEW GM SMOG ELECTRIC AIR PUMP 215-364 12560095: eBay Motors (item 130446495563 end time Nov-20-10 09:47:26 PST)

The AC Delco is a much better brand, but I don't know if it's worth the extra coin over the generic. Both will work.

Either way you should know that when adapting something like these smog pumps to this task it makes sense to either use an in-line catch can to prevent oil from entering the pump or understand that some sludgy oil will enter the pump and exit the discharge of the pump. Since these pumps weren't designed for this purpose a little bit of ingenuity needs to happen. For some people it might not even be worth doing if it creates more complexity and clutter.

Also have you seen how loud these smog pumps are with the foam removed?

Yeah if i get one i'll plumb a catch can in before the pump. The one in that vid you posted is quite loud, although i dont think it's unbearable

Rock and roll man. =D