Thread: "THE" Brake Thread

Oh, one more thing to add. NX wheels will not fit the B14 rear brake upgrade. The offset is too shallow. B14 SE-R's fit fine however. I'm curious to see if the NX wheels will fit a b13 upgrade; however, that will have to wait until I start my 4-door B13 project, or someone will graciously undertake the task and report with information. Made a couple little updates today, thanks EVERYONE for contributing your knowledge to the thread. Hopefully I wont let people down when this thing is finally done!

I am very concerned about the brake bias on all of these brake upgrades.

If the front and rear bias gets off, you are not braking effectively.

I've seen some smart folks that have stated that the B13 might as well have drums in the rear for all the work they actually do.

Is anybody (mechanically smarter than me) looking at the bias of these kits, or looking at a proportioning valve to get the bias correct? And how would you correctly set or test the brake bias?

Shawn, you've now run into the sleeping dragon of this topic. There's the Altima proportioning valve, but I'm unsure of the brake ratio it brings. There's a lot of theory and not a lot of practice when it comes to brakes. Which is why its taking me so long to update this thread.

I know the Honda boys change the proportioning valve on their brake conversions, maybe they know something we don't (which is not much)...

HowTo/P10 Brake Upgrade: Part One (Master Cylinder) - Page 6 - G20.net - Forums

http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=91131

I'm putting these links here to research later. I'll integrate it into my thread once I figure it all out.

Work in progress my friend.

That little thread of mine is still a work in progress, and needs an update. Again.

The only thing that Sarah Forst says about an upgraded master cylinder is this:

Unfortunately she does not address bias nor proportioning valves. Although everyone should still go buy her book.

As you know, you can degrade your overall braking performance, if you upgrade the fronts, rears, or both without taking into consideration the proportioning/bias. Bigger brakes that are not "locking up" at the correct time, nor utilizing all the friction of the four (4) tire contact patches on the road, are going to offer worse overall stopping performance than a properly engineered brake system with smaller actual brake components.

You know how I found out that crappy pads are REALLY crappy at this years convention? well I wanted to know if an NX 'blank' rotor that I bought on Amazon could also have been part of my problem. They were $10 each for the rotors.. Chriscar recommended them to me as a cheap rotor. I'm guessing I'll need to get different rotors instead of turning these $10 blanks, maybe at least a Brembo blank or something nicer.

For the next track day get some Hawk Blues and use your $10 rotors. You won't need to turn them...at the end of the weekend you can just chuck'em. Blues eat rotors, but they whoa ya down like nobody's business. Careful on the first lap.

cool, i may keep those rotors around then.. I just ordered some Power Slot rotors from tire rack, and planning on Carbotech Bobcat's for my daily driver rotor/pads..

I had Panther P+ at my first track event back in 2005.. they were great.. but my car was a lot slower then..

I have these in both my SE-R and P10, and I really like them