Thread: B13, B14, B15 Suspension Information...

But does the ST rear bar fit the front OEM housings?

i'm not sure about that, I've never messed with the ST bar because it was thinner and not adjustable..

well I had been all about the Progress bar for both it's adjustability and it's thickness over the ST bar.. but it DID dial in a TON of oversteer, and I think I found a solution:

FS: Upgraded Suspension Techniques B13 Rear Bar - SR20 Forum

B13 Rear Spring attaching OE part number list.

My question is, what parts are "mandatory" to replace when you swap out springs?

I have this terrible sound, like a clunking from my rear suspension, but all bolts are tight, the sway bar is secure.. seems like the bearing/spacer. 08912-7421A or perhaps 08915-4421A...

Would that degree only be achieved with the shortened struts and bumpsteer kits? Or is it possible that most of us are fairly close to that degree?

I had never considered the CV joints before. But I guess that is something encountered when you have to do MORE!

Shawn,

Here is some Hyperco B14 info.

Hyperco B14 Spring Deal - IT'S ON!!!! - SR20 Forum

Front - 300 lb/in rate with 1" drop
Rear - 250 lb/in rate with 5/8" drop

Found what I needed threw a small search, thanx Shawn B

Stock cars usually have close to 0 deree angles on the CV joints at rest. As you lower the car with shorter springs (shortened struts and bumpsteer kits have little-to-nothing to do with it) the CV joints will experience more angle at rest. Lowering too much can be an issue. I don't think anyone is really going that low with our cars though.

This angle can be corrected with a higher mount for the lower ball joint. I believe OEM is building that into their custom front control arms.

I forgot to mention the other issue with going low. The roll center changes usually for the worse. This too is corrected with a raised mount for the lower ball joint.

where do you buy your koni yellows??

I went to Summit racing and they had koni yellows listed for B15's as if there was no difference between Spec V housing/insert compared to an LE B15..

I always thought you HAD to specify B15 Spec V yellow insert to get the right ones.. ugh I can't believe how many write ups there are on this and how unclear it still is.

Not to disparage the kits offered or anything like that, but you need to keep context in mind and exactly which Sentra we are talking about here. Read the article. It's about a B15 being converted solely for track use with a lot of drop - 3" to 4". IDK but pretty sure 4" exceeds the entire front travel of the B13, possibly even in stock trim with it's rally-like ride height and soft springs with Mac Struts.

I run OEM ends and I don't have this problem with the B13, and believe me, I know bump steer when I feel it. I've tracked the car heavily and it's a dual use car(i.e. street legal) like many B13 owners probably have who care about this stuff. I have no need or desire to swap out the OEM parts in this area. Why not? My car does not even come close to the extreme angles pictured - it looks nearly level at rest.

Why?

a) My B13's is not dropped 4", or even 3", read the article and the intended use of that project car - pure track car. Most of us are driving street cars, possibly dual-use street/track like myself. If you're dropping a Sentra 4" on the street then it's going to be for style points, and you are going to have a lot of challenges if you expect it to handle under hard use in a variety of situations. If not, this really doesn't apply to your car.



b) is not a B14, or...



The G20 has no better front suspension than the B13. In my car, w/ the swap to Progress coilovers, GC plates, etc., it's better than any stock G20 or (shudder) Scion/Camry TC. Read the article carefully, too, he couldn't raise the top mounts with GC plates, an essential step in the B13 if expect to have decent travel AND stay off the bump stops w/o resorting to some pretty high spring rates.

c) ...is also not a B15. This also adds some important context:



There's probably a good reason for that. Stack up what went into their B15 project car in $$$ to cure its inherently hard-to-lower front geometry, issues with rear beam geometry, flex, etc and it's well over $5k-$7k, easily. That's a lot of money compared to what that buys upgrading a B13 (about double the cost of my entire suspension). Or a Honda. Sure, you have a stiffer chassis, and if you're building a race car, the B13's age is an instant disqualifier today in many series. It's simply too old for what the rules allow. But I'd have to really love the B15 to dump the kind of coin into the car that they did (or would have to, if paying anything close to market value for their parts). For a pure RACE car, I'd buy a Honda or even (shudder) a Scion TC (read their article on their project Scion TC and you'll see why) before going the route they did. I'll eat my words if it starts owning Hondas in its class (don't hold your breath on that one).

Unless you are slamming your B13, I don't see the need for a bump steer kit, if you are also using a setup like the GC plates and height-independent adjustable CO's (changing the CO height is independent of the body size, within its range). Maybe if you are keeping a Mac Strut layout, and trying to run with both 2-3" of travel with spring rates less than about 300 lbs/in, also w/o top mount changes, then yes, I'd consider it.

But I'd make every single one of those other changes before - GC plates, CO's, etc. After which, unless I run some really stupid caster settings, I don't expect bump steer (and don't have it).